Good light park bindings

There seems to be a lot of misinformation in this thread.
The Jester is definitely too much binding for him but I'm not convinced the kid is going to die by riding them at 6.5. I remember reading on here from a gear authority, and axing a guy at a local shop (who does know his shit) about it, that bindings have evolved sufficiently to be ridden safely at or at least near the lowest DIN setting. It's towards the top of the range that you still get problems, and obviously somewhere in the middle is best.
Inb4 people who pretend to know what they're talking about...oh wait. Yeah, this is a debate best suited for TGR.
 
get a DIN 12 (or 14 if you're super aggressive) binding and wait until you gain enough weight (which you will if you're 14 and 135) to ride your current bindings.
 
i don't really have much experience with STH bindings but isn't the regular STH not the same as the Z series? Either way, if it's the Z then don't get it. Shit breaks really easy.
 
the oversize toe is the same as the z essentially. the DRIVER toe has adjustable wings and toe height that really help cut down on pre release. worth the extra $$ for sure!
 
Similar but lighter to the regular STH and less durable. People like the Z's because its a pretty light binding. But you're better off with the STH if you want it to last. If you have the money, upgrade to the driver toe piece. Its a whole hell of a lot better than both the Z's and STH regulars.
 
Ive got the sth14 on one pair of park skis and the sth14 driver on another pair and even though the non driver is lighter the sth driver is soo much better. Ive not had the non driver's break like a pair of old z12's (which are peices of shit) but the driver toe peice is just much more solid and seems to release only when needed, were as ive had the non driver release at weird times. Both have been adjusted and are set on the same din too. For an extra $20 you would be crazy not to get them.
 
sorry if i am taking this backwards but its needed:
i work at a shop as the head tech. you should not ride any binding in that low of a din setting.i deny working on shit like that because it does not pass any of the twist tests and lean tests.if it does not pass those test the binding is deemed unsafe.thus leading to tons of premature releases, you could release on the top of a cliff and ooops peeeew splat so yeah
so you should eat like a champ gain some weight or become a stronger skier and hit the gym in the off season.
get some griffons, mojo 12, squires maybe, and stick in the lower twelve din range.

and that shop only wanted your money so SoL with the greedy people.
 
To all the idiots in this thread who think that riding near the lowest din setting is bad/dangerous/whatever...

This used to be the case, however, in the last like 20 years, it is no longer the case...

The din range is there for a reason. If it was not safe to operate the bindings at the lowest, or highest numbers, they would not be in the window. Running your din at the high end of the range still puts undue stress on your gear, and its going to wear out faster...

BUT, for example, I own two pairs of 8-18 din bindings (Mojo 18x). I only ski them at around 10, but they have both been din tested at 8, 9, and 10. They both released properly, 3/3 times, in the toe, and the heel, at all three of those settings.

THE BOTTOM OF THE DIN RANGE IS FINE. JUST GET THE DAMN THINGS RELEASE TESTED.

And if you are wondering why I have such burly bindings? I put 70-150 days on my gear every year. I have two sets of bindings that I swap between my like 7 pairs of skis. I wanted something that would last.

And once in a while if I am skiing something super gnar, I might crank the din up higher, so having the option is nice.

But if there are any binding engineers who disagree, please feel free to thoroughly correct/re-educate me.
 
Finally someone who isn't retarded.

Bindings work fine on the lower ranges, if you are pre-releasing a lot, get them torque tested, they will either be fine and releasing properly, need adjusting to release at the correct level or they are failing to release properly outside the range of values set and will be replaced by the manufacturer.

Get them tested and find out, some are notorious for sucking, Z/Quadrax toes for example. All bindings work, from personal experience FKS have great retention, the Jesters work very well but I dont get as much retention as the FKS or at least it seems like that even with a higher DIN. STH14s had to be adjusted but then worked better but nowhere near the same retention.

I am exactly like Mt Baker Man, I dont need a high din binding but I put a lot of days on my gear so buying burly bindings makes sense. Things just snap and break over time on the cheaper/lighter stuff.

In answer to the OP, Jesters are seriously light bindings, I'd save your money and go use it to ski instead of buying gear that really isn't going to help you. You can get a lighter binding but its going to be less durable/more plastic
 
There is nothing wrong with riding a binding at the lowest DIN, as stated above. There is nothing wrong about riding a binding at the highest DIN either, but then it will were out faster, also stated above.

What you should do tough, is getting them adjusted to the right forward pressure, and get a release test. If it pass the test then you´ll be fine. I use STH 16´s at DIN 9,5-12, and I have never had a problem with them not releasing when i fucked up.
 
From the thread 'The answer to what binding':
"Oh and binding weights courtesy to "kpudgar" and "TwigSki"Look P12/Rossi FKS120............ - 1050 g (2.32 lbs)
Look P18/Rossi FKS185............ - 1235 g (2.72 lbs)

Look PX12 Ti/Rossi Scratch 120... - 1190 g (2.62 lbs)
Look PX14 Ti/Rossi Scratch 140... - 1210 g (2.67 lbs)

Look PX12 Lifter................. - 1260 g (2.78 lbs)
Look PX12 Ti Lifter.............. - 1275 g (2.81 lbs)
Look PX12 Jib.................... - 1280 g (2.82 lbs)
Look PX12 Ti Lifter Wide......... - 1290 g (2.84 lbs)
Look PX12 Ti Jib Wide............ - 1300 g (2.87 lbs)
Look PX14 Ti Lifter.............. - 1300 g (2.87 lbs)

Salomon z12 Ti/Atomic FFG12...... - 846 g (1.87 lbs)
Salomon s912 Ti.................. - 998 g (2.20 lbs)
Atomic FFG14..................... - 1085 g (2.39 lbs)
Salomon s914..................... - 1175 g (2.59 lbs)
Salomon s916..................... - 1460 g (3.22 lbs)Salomon Sth 12....................- 1015 g (2.24 lbs)Salomon Sth 14....................- 1025 g (2.26 lbs)Salomon Sth 14 Driver............ - 1060g (2.34 lbs)Salomon Sth 16.................- 1161 g (2.56 lbs)

4frnt Deadbolt 412............... - 1200 g (2.65 lbs)
4frnt Deadbolt 614............... - 1225 g (2.70 lbs)

Tyrolia MOJO 15.................. - 1185 g (2.61 lbs)
Marker Griffon.............. - 950 g (2.09 lbs)Marker Jester................ - 1000 g (2.20 lbs)"
Hope that helps
 
And?
How much have bindings changed in terms of weight in the last 2 years? The only thing they change is the graphics.
 
4frnt bindings are no longer re-branded VIST bindings from Europe. They are now the same as the Tyrolia/Head series, and they have changed a little bit regarding weight and overall design in the past 4 years. Also, there are some slight changes in most of the other bindings.

Point being, its outdated.
 
That is true, 4frnt have changed manufacturers. However, I don't see any significant changes in the bigger name binding companies (i.e. Marker, Look/Rossi, Salomon/Atomic), other than what colour they are. What changes have you noticed?
 
well, the new Rossi/Look FKS/pivot series is different, the brakes are changed up on both, and I think there are significant material changes to the new 14 din version.

As for marker, in my humble opinion, they are cheap, and not durable. I am not a fan... But, I think you are right there, I do not know of any significant changes.

And I think salomon changed some of the composites they were using in their non-metal bindings a couple years back, but I am not sure...

As far as the changes in the salomon and the rossi/look bindings. I am not sure if they changed the weight at all, especially with the brakes on the rossi design, but I would bet its a little changed.

I guess I am being stuck up about it though, the table just needs a couple updates. Especially Jester Pros, and the new S916s, I think they are different too.
 
I'm not a fan of Marker either, I'm a pivot/fks man myself. But you're right, a new list of weights would be nice, I just can't really be bothered to trawl through tonnes of websites in order to compile it. Someone like Flashkick101 or onenerdykid will probably do it.
 
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