Fks 18, Pivot 18, or Marker Jester Pro 18.

robert.clarkeiii

robert.clarkeiii

Member
Which of these bindings should i get, i see a lot of people riding the fks, but I've also seen pivots and jester pros. I ride mostly park and pipe so which would be the best?
 
Both come in 18 DIN's, super reliable and lighter than any of the ones you're interested in. My 280lbs can vouch for them.

That said, to each their own.
 
Pivot 18s and FKS 18s are the exact same binding. Just different color and a different branding stamp.

I love my Pivot 18s, nothing to complain about other than if the brakes get mangled.
 
If you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
 
Yeah I'd look into an fks/pivot 12 or 14. Very few people actually need a binding with a DIN setting that goes up to 18.
 
13516748:Lemuel said:
If you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
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Could not have said it better.
 
yea ended up getting pivot 14's. I did some thinking and i really don't need 18din bindings because id be at the very low range of those and with the 14's I'm right in the middle
 
13517153:robert.clarkeiii said:
yea ended up getting pivot 14's. I did some thinking and i really don't need 18din bindings because id be at the very low range of those and with the 14's I'm right in the middle
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You'll love the 14s, I had them before too and they were great.

Just wanted to clarify something though; being on the lower (or lowest) DIN settings on a binding isn't a bad thing at all.

Enjoy your bindings!
 
13516748:Lemuel said:
If you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
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I wish I could high five you right now.
 
It's a little sad but I'd say that the biggest selling point of the jester pro's is the metal bar across the top that helps for getting snow off. I use them because I keep my dins at 12 and hit big jumps. I got a sweet deal on them making it worth the extra money. But the 14's seemed to be your best bet.
 
13517488:SladeSki said:
Just wanted to clarify something though; being on the lower (or lowest) DIN settings on a binding isn't a bad thing at all.

Enjoy your bindings!
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Don't clarify this for people, this is wrong. Bindings have optimal function when used in the middle of their din range.
 
Every time a thread about the 180s pops up the response 100% of the time is "You dat need an 18 din binding". It might not be all about the number though guys. I ride the FKS 180s. Im 6'1" 185 pounds and I can honestly say I do not NEED an 18 din binding.

BUT. I personally do not like the toe piece to the 14s. I have had a few different pairs have some parts that failed. I like the 18 din toe piece so much better. I managed to find a pair of the old 150s with the same toe piece though so I'm set.
 
13533980:EClay46 said:
Don't clarify this for people, this is wrong. Bindings have optimal function when used in the middle of their din range.
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That's actually a very common misconception with no physics-based backing at all. It may seem logical that bindings would work best in the middle of their DIN range but it's not true.

A DIN setting is a DIN setting, which are regulated by the ISO. In a uniform environment, any DIN certified (or even most others which aren't) binding set to a DIN of, let's say 5, will release at approximately the same applied force. By uniform environment I mean boot length is constant, hardness of snow on impact is constant, etc. It does not matter if that DIN setting is the lowest on the binding. In fact, it may actually provide a smoother release due to the fact that the spring is not under the extreme compression that would occur with the binding adjusted to its maximum DIN.

For that reason, what IS true is that setting a binding to its highest/higher DIN setting can sometimes not be a good idea.
 
13534028:SladeSki said:
That's actually a very common misconception with no physics-based backing at all. It may seem logical that bindings would work best in the middle of their DIN range but it's not true.

A DIN setting is a DIN setting, which are regulated by the ISO. In a uniform environment, any DIN certified (or even most others which aren't) binding set to a DIN of, let's say 5, will release at approximately the same applied force. By uniform environment I mean boot length is constant, hardness of snow on impact is constant, etc. It does not matter if that DIN setting is the lowest on the binding. In fact, it may actually provide a smoother release due to the fact that the spring is not under the extreme compression that would occur with the binding adjusted to its maximum DIN.

For that reason, what IS true is that setting a binding to its highest/higher DIN setting can sometimes not be a good idea.
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I have worked as a shop tech off and on since 2006 and everywhere I have worked the consensus has been that either a maxed out din or a din at it's lowest system is not IDEAL. I didn't say the binding will not function, I said that it functions best in the middle of it's range. I do see how this could be one of those things that people could have been saying forever so it just kind of becomes a "fact," however I am not ready to discount what I have been told for the past 10 years especially when I can find logic in it. I have calibrated many bindings and I have seen bindings at their minimum range release at all sorts of different torque ratings. This definitely has a lot to do with wear on the bindings but I have seen it happen on new bindings as well. Regardless of it being right or wrong I would still stand by it as there is no point in buying a binding that will have you sitting at its minimum din setting as they will be heavier in weight and price.
 
13534028:SladeSki said:
That's actually a very common misconception with no physics-based backing at all. It may seem logical that bindings would work best in the middle of their DIN range but it's not true.

A DIN setting is a DIN setting, which are regulated by the ISO. In a uniform environment, any DIN certified (or even most others which aren't) binding set to a DIN of, let's say 5, will release at approximately the same applied force. By uniform environment I mean boot length is constant, hardness of snow on impact is constant, etc. It does not matter if that DIN setting is the lowest on the binding. In fact, it may actually provide a smoother release due to the fact that the spring is not under the extreme compression that would occur with the binding adjusted to its maximum DIN.

For that reason, what IS true is that setting a binding to its highest/higher DIN setting can sometimes not be a good idea.
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It actually is a physics based backing. You are dealing with the tolerances of a spring. You have the most consistent release in the middle of the springs tolerances. That is where din/iOS certification takes place.

I am right there with the other guy. I have been a ski tech for 18years and been told this from the manufacturers, older ski techs, the manufacturers and tech introns for binding release testing equipment, oh yeah and from personal experience of testing over a couple thousand bindings in my life.
 
13516748:Lemuel said:
If you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
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This, I'm 6'4 and 220 without gear on and I don't feel the need for 18's on most of my gear, most of my gear has 14's on and I've never really felt I have pushed them beyond their limit, hell I had 13's on my GS skis and I never had a premature release.
 
13534045:THEDIRTYBUBBLE said:
I have pivot 12s, because I see no need for them to be set so high. I usually have them set at 7.
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you must be a small dude if you only have them set at 7. the lowest my bindings heve ever been is an 8 and now they are at 13
 
13537952:CabbyArrant said:
you must be a small dude if you only have them set at 7. the lowest my bindings heve ever been is an 8 and now they are at 13
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I'm on the smaller side. 5' 8" 160 pounds. Ive just never had any problems with them being set low. And Im paranoid of getting injured cause they're set too high.
 
the main problem I have come across about having the binding at the bottom of the range isnt about consistency, its the fact that almost every pivot/fks has tested half to a full din higher than the indicator says, so your setting of 8 at the bottom is really 8.5/9 release value, At least on a new pair. Granted I have also exclusively mounted 14's/12s and on the same machine so it could be calibrated slightly off, or the 18 toe could release more true to its value.
 
13537988:TheWeaz said:
the main problem I have come across about having the binding at the bottom of the range isnt about consistency, its the fact that almost every pivot/fks has tested half to a full din higher than the indicator says, so your setting of 8 at the bottom is really 8.5/9 release value, At least on a new pair. Granted I have also exclusively mounted 14's/12s and on the same machine so it could be calibrated slightly off, or the 18 toe could release more true to its value.
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No, what you are saying is exactly why you should never set your bindings at the highest or the lowest din. I rock nothing but 18din bindings because I ski at a 14-15 which is right in the middle. Test perfectly every time no matter if I use a marker,look, or tyrollia. The spring is not designed with tight enough tolerances to actually work consistently at the extremes of the range.
 
13538383:abaer said:
No, what you are saying is exactly why you should never set your bindings at the highest or the lowest din. I rock nothing but 18din bindings because I ski at a 14-15 which is right in the middle. Test perfectly every time no matter if I use a marker,look, or tyrollia. The spring is not designed with tight enough tolerances to actually work consistently at the extremes of the range.
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except all my testing was done with 14's/12's tested at 7, 8 and 9. each time they consistently, IE very repeatedly released 1/2 to a full din higher than indicated. Only in the toes though, not the heels. This happened for all the modern rossi/ look toes I came across, not just pivots.

And yes I had my work checked by many other shop techs, all with far more experience than me and I'm guessing more experience than you unless you happen to be 45 years old and working in shops for 25 years.
 
13516748:Lemuel said:
If you are asking about 18 din bindings, then there is a good chance that you don't need them. Anyone who needs a din range that high should know their products. Also, you said it yourself that you are basing your purchase of what looks cool. You most likely do not need a din range up to 18. Save yourself some money and body parts.
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Yup...pretty much this.

I know a lot of people think they need 18 DIN bindings because they're more durable (one reason I wish Look/Rossi would just bring back the all metal 15/155s - save everyone some trouble). I pretty much exclusively ride the FKS 180, but a: I didn't pay for them (sometimes you don't get a choice we "free" is involved, and you don't argue when they show up, haha), and b: I ride my DINs at 11 sometimes (it depends on what type of skiing I'm doing) so the 18 isn't ridiculous for me (although I'll even admit they're kind of unnecessary).

I recommend just getting the FKS 140 (unless you can find some FKS 155s for sale - then you'll get the best of both worlds). The reason I don't recommend the Jesters is because I've broken a few pairs at some pretty crucial times (like during a high speed carve going into a jump) and I just can never trust them again. I know people have had good experiences with them - but I just can't bring myself to recommend them ever.

Don't buy bindings based on looks, buy them based on what you need - you're knees will thank you later.
 
13538569:TheWeaz said:
except all my testing was done with 14's/12's tested at 7, 8 and 9. each time they consistently, IE very repeatedly released 1/2 to a full din higher than indicated. Only in the toes though, not the heels. This happened for all the modern rossi/ look toes I came across, not just pivots. .
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kinda crazy you would mention this, based on feel alone I was running a pair of fks toes at a half din lower than I usually would
 
If you can I would try and find an old FKS 155. Has all the burliness of an 18 binding, but without the extra din you don't likely need. If you can't the 14 is your best bet, with still cute a bit of burliness to it. Really figure out if you need the din or not and save yourself some weight and money
 
13538569:TheWeaz said:
except all my testing was done with 14's/12's tested at 7, 8 and 9. each time they consistently, IE very repeatedly released 1/2 to a full din higher than indicated. Only in the toes though, not the heels. This happened for all the modern rossi/ look toes I came across, not just pivots.

And yes I had my work checked by many other shop techs, all with far more experience than me and I'm guessing more experience than you unless you happen to be 45 years old and working in shops for 25 years.
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I also ride 18s and fks 185s ive probably had about 8 pairs of them and they by far release the most consistently out of any binding I've ever ridden, always my number one choice. I ride at about 14-16 and my release has always been spot on same with my older scratch 140s, p12s, and p14s. been riding these bindings for the past 10 years and they have never had any issues with calibration.
 
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