Fixie Bikes

Let's talk anti theft here. I'm thinking of replacing all hex bolts with snake eye tamper resistant bolts or Alen keys with the Centre pin (grab em from work) just not sure if the snake eyes will be able to torque up enough?

And as for axels, I can't seem to find a good security nut THAT CAN BE USED on horizontal drop outs, the few I found recommend against it.
 
^ What this guy said. Seriously man, maybe you should move if you have to worry about someone stripping your bike while it's on the rack.
 
I have actually never had to worry about it, but I'm planning on traveling with my bike, and with it being my primary mode of transportation, id rather ensure it stays 100% intact.

It takes no effort to switch over hex head bolts to equivalent tamper proof bolts, nor will it cost any money, so why the fuck wouldn't I take a little extra precaution?

and wheels are just too damn easy to steal, so its a must I find a theft resistant option for them.
 
It's pretty common in places like NYC. idk where this guy is though.

A seat+seatpost can easily be $200 - $300

A handlebar/stem combo can be an easy $200, but there's no way to lock them up besides safety bolts or bb's in the bolt head.

Regardless, if a thief really wants something, he can take it
 
This is how I feel about tamper-proof shit. All it takes is the thief getting stuck enough times to go out and buy the same kit you purchased and voila, he has the tools necessary to take it.

It's a risk you run by owning things in general. Be smart, lock your house, lock your bike/wheels, lock your car. If someone steals your shit, cuts your lock, or breaks a window to get into your other possessions, that's what insurance is for. Yes, they have bike insurance.
 
Needless to say, I almost died this morning. Mobbing to work and my chain popped off during a skid. Luckily I had already slowed enough to where I could just put my feet on the ground. Exhilarating!

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I think it was the tension. shitty kmc chains are known for weak spots. As well my hub was minutely loose. either way first time this has ever happened. Got it taken care of right when i got to work. (I work at a bike shop lol)
 
How do you guys ensure proper tension? I'm constantly finding myself loosening my wheel and pulling it back. Do you use those tensioner attachments? Or just brute force and tight ass bolts.
 
pretty much this. i have to re-tighten my back wheel every once in a while. i dont know if the chain is stretching a tiny bit or what it is, but my chain seems to get longer with time lol

its not that big a deal though, i just check the chain tension before i ride and usually its fine.
 
My frame has built in chain tensioners, thank god for technology. You could probably rig some up yourself with some drilling
 
if you don't know how to tension your chain properly, go to a shop, have them teach you.

but seriously, if you ride a fixed gear, learn how to tighten a fucking nut. do u kids have any mechanical know how these days?
 
Anyone with mechanical know-how understands that expansion and contraction of metal can result in slack in your chain over time. Tensioners make this an more rare occurrence and easier to remedy.

Relax. No one asked how to tighten a nut.
 
sorry to bring this back from a while ago.. but what the fuck..

no foot retention + brakeless.. have fun stopping bro.

at least you're riding a ratio where you'd max out at 10MPH.

this thread can go back and die now :3
 
lol. come ride with me. I skid fine bro. I run straps now, but I was always able to skid fine without straps. I have commuted to work every day for the last 6 months like that. I aint no bitch. And yes I do ride over 10mph. and what ratio am i riding mister know everything?
 
Riding without straps is plain stupid, period. Don't care how long you've commuted w/o them. Gaper central.

My guess is you're at about 55 gear inches with a ~44-21 setup, so yeah 10mph sounds about right.

As for tensioning your chain, here's how you do it on a fixed gear.

- Get yourself a ski sock or a rag.

- Loosen your nuts completely.

- Put the rag just under your brake bridge on the tire.

- Rotate the wheel so the rag starts to "get stuck" between the seatube and the tire.

- Turn the wheel until you have proper tension. Proper tension is a personal preference but the general rule of thumb is 1-2" of play, total, when you move the chain up and down w your fingers. Super tight is never good, it puts strain on your chain, chainring, and cog; eventually wearing them out unnecessarily quick.

- Once you have your tension, center your wheel. I use one hand on the rim/seatube to tension and center.

- Tighten nuts with other hand. Do not over tighten them. If your do, you're putting unnecessary stress on your hub.

You really should never have to readjust unless you are riding a TON. By that I mean thousands of miles. I've been commuting the last 2 years on a $9 KMC chain and have readjusted my chain tension once. I need to adjust again soon, but I'll probably just buy another chain. Chains will stretch a tad after a TON of miles, but by keeping that chain for too long, you're adding additional wear to your chainring and cog. So imo, a $9 clean chain is worth it.
 
Bought a vintage Peugeot for 30 bucksStripped it

Fixed it

Hated it

Bought a 3 speed internally geared hub, ran cables inside frame tubing

Bought front brake

Ride it every day
 
You a fucking retard. Your entire statement became invalid after you talked about chain slack. Chains wear after about 2000 miles. If you honestly ride bikes frequently, you should have replaced yours long ago. And if it is a shit kmc chain, (which are literally garbage, and have so many tight spots,so replace them often) you should replace it every 1000. Especially if it is fixed.

And good god, a fuckin sock. Bring your bike to a bike shop before you fuck anything else up.

Also I run a 42 16 so closer to 69 gear inches, and at about a 80 rpm cadence I am cruising at 26 mph. So get learned son. And stop trying to act like you know it all.
 
Bumping this thread because I just got done refreshing this tired out fixie. I'm fairly pleased with the final result...

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image_zpsf9d1dfc6.jpg
 
So, new single speed in the works. Front or Back Break? the breaks are brand new and both have alot of life left. I'm leaning towards just front,(yes i will ride it before i dispatch it. Any one use just the front? And yes, im doing this all for just aesthetic/ simplicity
 
12562993:Woodhouse said:
Bought a vintage Peugeot for 30 bucksStripped it

Fixed it

Hated it

Bought a 3 speed internally geared hub, ran cables inside frame tubing

Bought front brake

Ride it every day
Click to expand...

What brand hub did you go with? I'm looking at possibly going the same route
 
13065192:KrazyistKarl said:
What brand hub did you go with? I'm looking at possibly going the same route
Click to expand...

What type of hub is on it currently? Is it a thread freewheel? If so, just by a BMX single speed (itl cost you around 20 bucks), thsi way there no need to buy a new huband cost you the time of new spoking it or a whole new wheel.
 
13065628:Caleb.E said:
What type of hub is on it currently? Is it a thread freewheel? If so, just by a BMX single speed (itl cost you around 20 bucks), thsi way there no need to buy a new huband cost you the time of new spoking it or a whole new wheel.
Click to expand...

Yeah but I want 3 speeds
 
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