Film (Analog) Photography Thread

That's the Pakon. Last I checked prices were closer to $1k (too bad I didn't shoot 35mm when they were $250).

I have an Epson V600. It works fine for MF, but for 35mm I can't even get a usable image from it. What's your secret?
 
13532321:lIllI said:
That's the Pakon. Last I checked prices were closer to $1k (too bad I didn't shoot 35mm when they were $250).

I have an Epson V600. It works fine for MF, but for 35mm I can't even get a usable image from it. What's your secret?
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I dunno, it depends what you consider a usable image. I do professional mode, 16 bit greyscale, either 3200 or 4800 dpi, all features off (especially unsharp mask and digital ice, they usually destroy the image). Then I just clean up dust and maybe make minor brightness adjustments in Photoshop Elements then they go directly on my flickr.

If I remember your photos you've posted correctly, then I know you are a much better photographer than I am and actually know your shit. I don't have a clue how to adjust my photos so they look like the film is "supposed" to look as most scanners will change the film's look a bit. I also don't usually have my photos printed so I only care how they look on a computer screen. I've printed photos at walmart from the v600 files to 8x10's for a school art show and they looked only barely different than any of the digital prints entered.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/109027560@N03/ here's my flicker if you want to see what they look like, most of what's on there is from my v600 with the settings I mentioned
 
13532392:lIllI said:
Wow, those look great man. Do you put the negs flat on the glass, or do you fiddle with the holder?
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They just go straight in the holder, if they are really curled I stick them under a few big dictionaries overnight
 
13532247:lIllI said:
On a side note, is it possible to home scan 35mm without a Pakon or shitbed scanner yet? It's pretty much the only thing keeping me from shooting B&W...
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Plustek masterrace
 
I thought the Plustek's were no better than the flatbeds. Or are they just easier to scan flat or something?
 
13540457:lIllI said:
I thought the Plustek's were no better than the flatbeds. Or are they just easier to scan flat or something?
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No they are way sharper, but generally as slow to my knowledge. The advantage of a Pakon is speed, but you pay for it in resolution and dynamic range.
 
13540457:lIllI said:
I thought the Plustek's were no better than the flatbeds. Or are they just easier to scan flat or something?
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Plustek's skullfuck you with beyond impossible resolution and their film holders actually work.

But what zbphoto says is true:

13540674:zbphoto said:
No they are way sharper, but generally as slow to my knowledge. The advantage of a Pakon is speed, but you pay for it in resolution and dynamic range.
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It's slow on high-res and just one picture per scan.

But multiscan works better on it then on an Epson.

I just watch movies whilst scanning, or have a casual wank over a picture off a Russian slag.
 
13544020:Bmo. said:
That's not in the budget. Talk to me about the 8100 and 8200

Paging barwin
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The 8200 is supposedly better (and essentially the 7600) everyone buys it over the 8100. No one knows how they actually compare.
 
13544020:Bmo. said:
That's not in the budget. Talk to me about the 8100 and 8200

Paging barwin
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I'm selling my 8100, though I bet in the US they're a lot cheaper than what I would sell mine for.
 
Anyone have a recommendation for a portable point and shoot? Price doesn't really matter, but Id like to try a cheaper one before I commit to a nice one
 
13647805:ben_collins said:
So stoked I am about to pick up a Mir-1B 37mm f.2.8

Flares are gorgeous on that lens and I can't wait to test it out
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SO SOVIET

MUCH FLARE

SUCH FOCAL LENGTH

THAT COMMUNISM
 
Does anyone recommend specific equipment to start developing B&W. I don't want too expensive. Also what type of film should I get to start off? Thanks and I'm so stoked to get started with this
 
Anyone else here use a plustek 8200 or 8100?

Interested in other peoples workflows, I'm convinced that I could be getting more consistent results out of this thing.
 
13670545:ben_collins said:
Does anyone recommend specific equipment to start developing B&W. I don't want too expensive. Also what type of film should I get to start off? Thanks and I'm so stoked to get started with this
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Paterson 2 reel dev tank

changing bag

xtol developer

fixer

photoflo

scissors

bottle opener

big/heavy binder clips

binder sleeves for storing film

i think thats everything

here's a decent and cheap film to get started with
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/190364-Arista-EDU-Ultra-400-ISO-35mm-x-36-exp.

watch a youtube video or two and you'll be good! It's a ton of fun
 
13671980:Bmo. said:
Paterson 2 reel dev tank

changing bag

xtol developer

fixer

photoflo

scissors

bottle opener

big/heavy binder clips

binder sleeves for storing film

i think thats everything

here's a decent and cheap film to get started with
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/190364-Arista-EDU-Ultra-400-ISO-35mm-x-36-exp.

watch a youtube video or two and you'll be good! It's a ton of fun
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Thanks! Hopefully I can pull together some extra money to buy all of that stuff haha!
 
13671907:DILLINGER said:
Anyone else here use a plustek 8200 or 8100?

Interested in other peoples workflows, I'm convinced that I could be getting more consistent results out of this thing.
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8200 here, it's dick slow at higher res.

Multipass (NO NOT LEELOO) works brilliant, makes it even slower.

The Raw files it creates WILL KILL INFERIOR COMPUTERS, think 300+ mb on 7200dpi with multipass in 16 bit black and white. Think 1+ GB on 48 bit colour shots.

Vuescan looks like dickshit but has better options then Silverfast.

Don't let either program convert your negs, use your own Ps preset. (You can have mine if you want)

It's fiddly, but the quality you can extract from 35mm is insane.

Your eyeballs will melt.

Your dick will excrete white milky fluid.

You will cut yourself on the sharpness.
 
13676552:Laurent. said:
8200 here, it's dick slow at higher res.

Multipass (NO NOT LEELOO) works brilliant, makes it even slower.

The Raw files it creates WILL KILL INFERIOR COMPUTERS, think 300+ mb on 7200dpi with multipass in 16 bit black and white. Think 1+ GB on 48 bit colour shots.

Vuescan looks like dickshit but has better options then Silverfast.

Don't let either program convert your negs, use your own Ps preset. (You can have mine if you want)

It's fiddly, but the quality you can extract from 35mm is insane.

Your eyeballs will melt.

Your dick will excrete white milky fluid.

You will cut yourself on the sharpness.
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So there is hope!

Super interested in that Ps preset, really unhappy with silverlight and vuescans conversion. I tried the demo version of colorperfect the other day, still wasn't convinced.

My computer can handle the large files, but a 48-bit color neg raw @7200dpi is only (lol) about 300mp. Am I missing something here? When I scan it does two passes (using an 8200i).

plz help master Laurent
 
13676928:DILLINGER said:
So there is hope!

Super interested in that Ps preset, really unhappy with silverlight and vuescans conversion. I tried the demo version of colorperfect the other day, still wasn't convinced.

My computer can handle the large files, but a 48-bit color neg raw @7200dpi is only (lol) about 300mp. Am I missing something here? When I scan it does two passes (using an 8200i).

plz help master Laurent
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Colorperfect is the sex but I myself refuse to pay for fancy curves.

Vuescan relies on getting a really good calibration on a blank piece of film and then it's smooth sailing. For Tri-X you can just invert colours in Ps, you are just gonna crush those blacks and amp up the contrast to 11 anyway.
http://benneh.net/techshit/better-colour-neg-scanning-with-vuescan/

I don't have the plugin on my mac (I have a computer dedicated to scanning and rough Russian plumbing porn) so I need to look for it.

I just do more passes then you can handle,

kWojR3T.jpg
 
It's been almost a year since I downsized to 35mm. I'm catching more shots, but they're less deliberate and more candid. Still unsure if this is a good thing.

Also I really wish Fuji 400h was cheaper because I'm getting tired of correcting the warmth of Portra.
 
13678212:lIllI said:
It's been almost a year since I downsized to 35mm. I'm catching more shots, but they're less deliberate and more candid. Still unsure if this is a good thing.

Also I really wish Fuji 400h was cheaper because I'm getting tired of correcting the warmth of Portra.
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i think that's the fun thing about 35mm, the capture is more instant and guttural. 120 involves too much though and second guessing and staging. most of my recent favorites are out of my olympus p&s and completely thoughtless.
 
13678367:loganimlach said:
i think that's the fun thing about 35mm, the capture is more instant and guttural. 120 involves too much though and second guessing and staging. most of my recent favorites are out of my olympus p&s and completely thoughtless.
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35mm is definitely less intrusive in general. Medium format feels more like graphic design or painting - 35mm feels more like videography (even though carrying MF gear reminds me more of videography).

To compromise between geometric/painterly and candid/journalistic, I shoot everything on a 50mm "wide angle." 35mm lenses are convenient but they're way too cluttered. 80mm lenses look too much like senior portraits. 50mm has a 35mm gestalt but with the geometric fat trimmed from the periphery. Nice and tight, oh yes.
 
I've been so involved with my own life for the last few months that I've foregone shooting film as a whole :(

Thank god I have a massive trip to NZ coming up to force me back into it again.
 
13699454:saskskier said:
That moment you get two rolls of film developed only to find out both were blank...
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Actually, that moment you realize you didn't load your film properly. At least it was crappy stuff I picked up at Wal-mart and just used learn on. Not that it did any good... Oh well.
 
13699469:saskskier said:
Actually, that moment you realize you didn't load your film properly. At least it was crappy stuff I picked up at Wal-mart and just used learn on. Not that it did any good... Oh well.
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Hahaha same thing happened to me with the first couple rolls I ever shot, I was so bummed
 
Shot Velvia for the first time. Just wondering if anyone else has shot it/how they like to shoot it? I went a 1/3rd underexposed on everything. I definitely struggled with the limited dynamic range but I'm happy with how this one turned out.

836987.jpeg
 
anyone wanna buy my Bessa-R and Voigtlander 35mm f2.5? Body - $170 + shipping, Lens - $230 + shipping, package $400 free shipping

[img=]836992[/img]
 
Just picked up a Leica M3 with 3 lenses! Currently dying... I'll upload some photos once I develop them manually.

Of course I'm going to have to shoot some B&W, so what is everyone's favorite B&W film? Currently using Ilford Hp5+

Also, any tips for someone without a lightmeter? I know about sunny 16, but I suck ass at it. I am renting a handheld lightmeter rn and it's not very accurate..
 
13727671:WPoch said:
Just picked up a Leica M3 with 3 lenses! Currently dying... I'll upload some photos once I develop them manually.

Of course I'm going to have to shoot some B&W, so what is everyone's favorite B&W film? Currently using Ilford Hp5+

Also, any tips for someone without a lightmeter? I know about sunny 16, but I suck ass at it. I am renting a handheld lightmeter rn and it's not very accurate..
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Pan F+ 50 is my personal favorite. Kinda slow for handheld, but it's buttery smooth, it looks pretty good pushed as well
 
Anyone know if Baltos film developing thing ever took off? I'm trying to find a new place to get my shit developed and I'm thinking I might have to ship it out. Anyone got suggestions?
 
13740292:No.Quarter said:
Anyone know if Baltos film developing thing ever took off? I'm trying to find a new place to get my shit developed and I'm thinking I might have to ship it out. Anyone got suggestions?
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Na he's too busy hitting dabs and collecting jewelry
 
13741736:Ascent_Cinema said:
Been going back and forth for a while about getting a film camera, convince me or don't convince me
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why not? bodies are dirt cheap and you can buy inexpensive used lenses with spectacular build quality and optics that work very well on modern digital bodies too.

film and processing can add up but buying in bulk and learning to develop yourself cuts down on cost and is also a huge learning experience.
 
13741794:jca said:
why not? bodies are dirt cheap and you can buy inexpensive used lenses with spectacular build quality and optics that work very well on modern digital bodies too.

film and processing can add up but buying in bulk and learning to develop yourself cuts down on cost and is also a huge learning experience.
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So much this.

You develop a whole different attitude to what you are shooting when you have a limited number of frames to use (and you know that each of those frames comes with a pricetag).

You plan the entire thing differently, you communicate differently with the guy who skis in front of the camera and you sort of need to think twice while constructing/building the whole image in your head. Plus, then you won't have the instant review in the display. You will simply have to wait until after developing.

It's a great way to elevate your own sense of photography. Not sure what to compare it with... maybe like being a chef and stepping out of fast-food and into cooking 5-course meals. Errm... well, kinda, sorta. I'll always keep shooting digital, but analog sure helps me to keep my game up.
 
13753406:hemlockjibber8 said:
Is that second shot the Slea Head drive just outside of Dingle? I'm living there for the year and using my photos for the local tourism board. One hell of a photogenic place eh?
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Haha yep, 5 of those photos are from a 2 hour drive that I woke up to do as the sun was coming up. It was one of the best mornings of the trip. So dark as the sun was coming up didn't think we would get any light, but there were a couple good moments, then we hit Ballyaglisha and the sun just exploded through the clouds. I attached a panorama I shot on my digital camera.

Dingle's a cool place. And that drive is incredible. This guy in waterford saw my camera and told me that I HAD to drive it.

Two days before before I had gone to Skellig Michael (which was incredible) but got SO FUCKING SEASICK on the 6 foot swells we were ripping through to get there that I almost didn't make the hike, and felt like shit the whole rest of the day and part of the next day driving to Dingle. If you haven't been, going to Skellig is worth every dollar you spend to get there, even if you get sick like me.
 
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