Film (Analog) Photography Thread

LTM is a completely different situation to M mount. If someone wants to get into non-fixed lens RF's on a budget that is 100% the way to go and the canon 7 is probably the best non barnack style option. But for M mount, there isn't a good reason to waste money on a 'stepping stone' of a product when you can go for the much better one right off the bat for the same price. I bought my first M working minimum wage so they really aren't expensive to get into, but they really are that much better then the cosinas. The ZM's VF while big and bright is very weak and the RF is easily knocked out of alightment so you can't trust using it.
 
Really? I mean, how easy is it TRUTHFULLY to knock that VF out of alignment? It happens to Leicas as well (fine, maybe it's not as easy to do?).

...I suppose that's the other thing. All this talk about Leica being so bombproof, but who is actually going to go thrash it around today like they are Robert Capa haha. For the most part, people will baby anything they put money into, even something made by Cosina.

Regardless, I absolutely understand why anyone (and everyone, really..) would want anything with 'leitz' engraved into brass. It's the pinnacle of craftsmanship, if you will, and it's hard to explain if you've never fucked around with one. I'd just personally rather spend the same money for 'good enough' and a trip somewhere, is all...

(for me, a basic SLR in adequate shape and some cheap glass + a multi-month trip to anywhere weird > Leica system and yet another stroll through your bland cookie-cutter suburban neighborhood)
 
Reposting my own OC, because relevant to the discussion:

KbYdRlB.jpg
 
12995784:ForeverYung said:
I got a 35mm cannon eos rebel from my grandfather, gonna go buy some film today, recommendations?

delta 3200 and push it over night for maximum grain

because what did we establish guys?

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So using this logic, pushing to 250,000iso will be the most art the art world has ever arted. Shoot with 10 stop ND for day time compensation, again for maximum art.
 
Scored myself a spotmatif f not too long ago at an estate sale... and now that I'm broke off for the foreseeable future, I intend to get into shooting with it. Maaad stoked!

One question: Anyone with a spotmatic have to replace the battery? Not too sure which battery to go with... I've read they're pretty tolerable to different types (1.25-1.55V ish). But have no clue what's most optimal.
 
They don't actually sell the correct size battery for the spotmatic in the US anymore. I tried a few diff ones with adapters and could never get the meters working in my 2 bodies. I found some posts on flickr discussing what others had used and worked for them but in the end I just used my iphone or minolta meter which were both more accurate anyway.
 
Just use PX 625, cheap as dirt and if the metering doesn't work Sunny 16.

B&W and neg colour film has a pretty large dynamic range so getting the exposure right is not that difficult.

Only when you shoot slide you need to be more precise.
 
PX625's aren't sold anymore. Well, they are, but not the 1.35v version. Mercury batteries were banned some years ago and unfortunately a lot of camera's untill the 70's/80's used those batteries. The only ones available are Weincell batteries, are 1.35v but are for hearing aids. They are depleted really quickly.
 
I actually mean the dirt cheap 1.5v's you can get in 10 strip packages for a few dolla dolla on eBay.

I always call them PX625 out of habit, non mercury ones are still called 625 anyway.

If he is anal he can get the silver oxide 1.55 volt 625's with a voltage regulator.

But still for most types of film the cheap as dirt 625 still work almost flawlessly.
 
13002665:*DUMBCAN* said:
Alkaline v625 are still made, but you cannot buy the old mercury px625 any more. Not sure if it makes a difference or not, but it's the same shape/size and the same voltage.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/v625-alkaline-battery-px625-mercury-equivalent-vq76h

The only battery selling website that matters is this one:

http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/

Their website is hideous and looks very 90's but contains a wealth of information specifically for vintage cameras and they are cheap (probably because they never hired a webdesigner)

(Seriously what's up with camera websites that contain a shitload of information but look like a 90's afternoon kid project, mir.com, lluminous, etc...)

Information blurb blatantly copy and pasted from small batery company

PX625 / PX13 / MR9 Mercury Cell

Type: Mercuric Oxide. Voltage: 1.35 V.

Diameter: 15.6 mm. Height: 5.95 mm.

Also known as: PX625 / PX13 / EPX625 / V625PX / MR09 / MR9 / H-D / HD / RPX625 / RM625 / KX625 / HD1560 / 1124MP / Mallory RM-625R / Eveready E625N / Burgess HG-625R / 4370 / 4371 / V13PX / EPX13 / V625PX / HD625 / PN625 / RM625 / 4625 / 625 / H1560 / HD-D / M01 / M20 / 8930 / Varta 7002 / Pertrix 7002.

Comments:

The MR9, PX13 and PX625 is is a discontinued Mercuric Oxide coin type cell that was commonly used in cameras and is now banned because of toxicity and environmental fears.

The original PX625 mercury cell produced 1.35V.

There are three possible mercury free replacements for this PX625, PX13 or MR9 cell:

genuine Mercury cell, the PX625, PX13 or MR9 - but they are rare and hard to find.

the equivalent alkaline cell, the LR9 or V625U.

the equivalent silver oxide cell, the S625PX.

the equivalent zinc air cell, the WeinCELL MRB625.

a voltage reducing adapter, the MR-9 adapter and a silver oxide 386 cell

The least expensive PX625 replacement is the alkaline cell, the LR9 or V625U. They fit perfectly but, as with all alkaline cells the voltage is not stable, it drifts down from 1.5V towards 1.35V (the voltage of the original Mercury cell) and then lower still. If you use the cell in a camera that needs a steady reference voltage, as the voltage is not steady throughout the useful life of the cells, you need to constantly adjust how you compensate.

Because the S625PX silver oxide cell produces a steady 1.55V, you are able to compensate for the higher voltage by a fixed number of stops or by adjusting the ASA setting. There may be as many as two f-stops underexposure by a camera that uses 1.55v instead of the original 1.35v, but the compensation you require is constant.

Another PX625 replacement is a zinc air battery. The WeinCELL MRB625 is a custom zinc/air battery designed to replace banned mercury batteries. WeinCELLs deliver the same 1.35 V voltage and stability of output as did the mercury PX625 batteries so there is no need to adjust your exposure. The WeinCELL MRB625 batteries last much longer than hearing aid batteries, some times up to a year. To achieve this longer life, the MRB625 used a proprietary electrolyte and has only two small air holes, instead of the 7 larger holes found in standard hearing aid batteries.

Possibly the 'Rolls Royce' of replacements is the MR-9 adapter fitted with a silver oxide 386 cell. The MR-9 adapter is the shape and size of a PX625 cell, has a recess into which a 1.55V silver oxide 386 cell can be dropped and and contains voltage regulating electronics to drop the voltage to match the 1.35V of the original mercury cell. The MR-9 adapter is expensive, but it can be reused time and time again with inexpensive silver oxide 386 cells. Over time you may find the MR-9 adapter will actually save you money over the other options.
 
Ok so I plan on making 4x5 contact prints from a pinhole camera for a physics class science project. This is my buy list, if anybody knows a thing or two about contact printing, let me know if I'm missing something.

-Ilford HP5 PLUS 4x5 sheet film

-Kodak D-76 Developer (Powder) for Black & White Film - Makes 1 Gallon

-Kodak Fixer for Black & White Film & Paper (Powder)Makes 1 Gallon

-Ilford Multigrade IV MGD.1M Black & White Variable Contrast RC (Resin Coated) Glossy Paper 8x10"-25 (cheaper than 5x7)

-Ilford PQ Universal Paper Developer (500ml)

For fixer I'll just be using heavily diluted vinegar. Any info/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
You'll want a sheet of glass to lay on top of the negative for contact printing to make sure it's sharp, but other than that, it's super easy.
 
Your also going to want to get in the habbit of using seperate bottles of fixer (and stop is you use that) for film and paper. Do you already have 8x10 trays? How are you planning to process the 4x5 film?
 
13007661:TijmenDal said:
Why not just make the picture directly on the paper? Saves you a lot of money...

I'm not sure if you're serious or not, but...

Because then you only have one copy, and it's a paper negative that's hard to print off of.
 
Just got my first roll ever back. Pretty big failure overall but I managed to come out with a couple shots I don't hate. Expired Fuji Superia 200

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Got a roll of Ektar in now, I've got a lot to work on
 
13008963:erikK said:
Just got my first roll ever back. Pretty big failure overall but I managed to come out with a couple shots I don't hate. Expired Fuji Superia 200

10152637_10154147941505134_6529211381386055181_n.jpg


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10310676_10154147941345134_2319888544368544400_n.jpg


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Got a roll of Ektar in now, I've got a lot to work on

I feel ya man

I'm diggin that landscape shot though
 
13007603:zbphoto said:
Your also going to want to get in the habbit of using seperate bottles of fixer (and stop is you use that) for film and paper. Do you already have 8x10 trays? How are you planning to process the 4x5 film?

I'm going to be tray developing them. And I'm not enlarging so I'll be cutting the 8x10 paper in the darkroom.

13007661:TijmenDal said:
Why not just make the picture directly on the paper? Saves you a lot of money...

A box of 25 sheets was 30 bucks and I wanted the b&w neg chemicals anyways for 35mm so I think its a fair trade to experiment with contact prints.
 
13007603:zbphoto said:
Your also going to want to get in the habbit of using seperate bottles of fixer (and stop is you use that) for film and paper. Do you already have 8x10 trays? How are you planning to process the 4x5 film?

I'm going to be tray developing them. And I'm not enlarging so I'll be cutting the 8x10 paper in the darkroom.

13007661:TijmenDal said:
Why not just make the picture directly on the paper? Saves you a lot of money...

A box of 25 sheets was 30 bucks and I wanted the b&w neg chemicals anyways for 35mm so I think its a fair trade to experiment with contact prints.
 
10 rolls of provia 100f, 2 roll of portra 400 and a roll of tmax 100. Ready for France -> Italy

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**This post was edited on May 29th 2014 at 9:16:25pm
 
Dammit Woods, not even 300 rolls of Tri-X carried by your assistant?

Do you even Sebastião Salgado?

You will never get Pulitzers or Jumbo-Taschen publications this way. ;)
 
13010731:omnidata said:
Dammit Woods, not even 300 rolls of Tri-X carried by your assistant?

Do you even Sebastião Salgado?

You will never get Pulitzers or Jumbo-Taschen publications this way. ;)

I'm saving my Tri-X for Africa tho.
 
and I just found some neopan 1600 last night which I of course purchased it all because pushing normal neopan to 1600 is awesome so this to 6400 should be even MORE awesome :)

18659.jpg
 
I shot some pro 400h at +3 over box speed in the Oregon rainforest. Oh my lawddd. Ektar greens without the horrendous skin tones.
 
13011483:lIllI said:
I shot some pro 400h at +3 over box speed in the Oregon rainforest. Oh my lawddd. Ektar greens without the horrendous skin tones.

But did you shoot it with a Mamiya 645 with the 80 1.9?
 
13011749:lIllI said:
645 is for peasants. Everyone knows wet plates are the only pure form of photography.

they make 400h wet plates? who knew, teach us of your sorcery oh Landis

oh and beartooths? are we gonna art on art on art? Cy is gonna be there so we can get him drunk and drunk art
 
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