Yeah, for the price of the Hexar AF, i'd rather just buy a Contax G1
Film (Analog) Photography Thread
- Thread starter PacificRimJob
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If I got one, I'd only get the 45 Planar. Such a pretty lens, and far more my taste as far as focal length goes (I like 35 if I'm in a confined area, but for most situations, I like a little bit more length. 40-45 is perfect to me)
...that said I might consider a 28 or a 90 later down the road depending - I mean, they're so small, why not.
...that said I might consider a 28 or a 90 later down the road depending - I mean, they're so small, why not.
steezysteeze
Active member
Do you like anything?
Balto
Active member
Yes photography, we don't need another gear thread. Breaking news, balto shoots leica, dingosean buys throwaway minoltas and has a hasselblad that he has never produced an image with(to heavy? you have got to be kidding me, what are you a 7 year old girl?), lawrence is the quintessential film thriftshop hipster and has a back up for a back up for a back up etc for no reason. None of this shit makes you a better photographer, having 50 junkers or 1 collectors item doesn't teach you to take better photos, GO SHOOT SOMETHING.
Saturated, sharp, possibly the cleanest color negative film. Renders blue/purple shadows with warm highlights, which produces a chromatic "punch" that makes the image look contrasty. Excellent film for long exposures in my opinion, despite not having the best reciprocity characteristics.
Here's some shots I've taken with Ektar (all of these have had minimal to no color processing):
Also, Ektar is about as close to slide film as you can get with a negative, though there's still a pretty big difference. Velvia has a sort of "micro punch" that just isn't present with Ektar (though to be fair, I haven't tried pushing it). Here's an informal test I did between the two:
Ektar
Velvia
note: I adjusted the levels of the Ektar a fair amount in post to approximate the Velvia but still couldn't nail it. The colors are untouched between the two. Compared to Velvia the Ektar's color contrast looks "pasty" while the Velvia has a "3D" look about it - but that difference is just the inherent nature between slide and negative film.
Here's some shots I've taken with Ektar (all of these have had minimal to no color processing):
Also, Ektar is about as close to slide film as you can get with a negative, though there's still a pretty big difference. Velvia has a sort of "micro punch" that just isn't present with Ektar (though to be fair, I haven't tried pushing it). Here's an informal test I did between the two:
Ektar
Velvia
note: I adjusted the levels of the Ektar a fair amount in post to approximate the Velvia but still couldn't nail it. The colors are untouched between the two. Compared to Velvia the Ektar's color contrast looks "pasty" while the Velvia has a "3D" look about it - but that difference is just the inherent nature between slide and negative film.
I'm sure it has been discussed before but I have just missed it: Canon vs. Epson scanners?
The Canoscan 9000 has a higher advertised 9600dpi but the Epson V600 seems to be so much more popular. Anyone used both?
The Canoscan 9000 has a higher advertised 9600dpi but the Epson V600 seems to be so much more popular. Anyone used both?
Laurent.
Active member
The native resolution is pretty much the same at 2400PPI, the quality difference between the two is negligible. And scanning in any higher resolution just results in gargantuan files with no added sharpness.
The Epsons seem more popular, and there are more third party accessories available that are supposed to drastically improve scanning.
Also look at the V700.
The Epsons seem more popular, and there are more third party accessories available that are supposed to drastically improve scanning.
Also look at the V700.
Balto
Active member
The ANR glass bullshit is a complete waste of money, people have done detailed side by side tests and assuming your film is flat to begin there is no real difference. Film goes in archival sleeves and under books over night, then they are flat and good to go in the morning.
What the v700 gains over the v600 is the adjustable focus of the scanner and ability to scan twice as much film at a time and 4x5. The 700 is nice, but the 750 is the true winner with it's ability to accept wet mounts.
What the v700 gains over the v600 is the adjustable focus of the scanner and ability to scan twice as much film at a time and 4x5. The 700 is nice, but the 750 is the true winner with it's ability to accept wet mounts.
trying to keep it under $200. just an amateur trying to get something to decently digitize my memories haha.
bakedpow
Active member
just gona hop on in here and get this in my threads. currently having a friend develop some rolls for me so we will see how things turned out. i was shooting with an old camera id found with a broken meter so i used an iphone meter for all shots. gona be cool to see how that turns out haha
No.Quarter
Active member
Like what?
I will need to get a scanner that will do 120 and I really cant shell out for a v700 or the plustek 120 (if the problems were to get sorted). So what can I get to make the most out of my scans?
I will need to get a scanner that will do 120 and I really cant shell out for a v700 or the plustek 120 (if the problems were to get sorted). So what can I get to make the most out of my scans?
No.Quarter
Active member
Also what are the best color and B+W films for shooting the stars? And how to I calculate how long to expose without getting trails since MF and 35mm dont have the same aspect ratios
GreenHorn
Active member
I'm just getting into film but I'm really enjoying it so far. I just bought a cheap 35mm and have been developing at school. A couple classmates use medium format, which I'd love to get at some point, but don't think I'm committed enough yet to justify spending the money. I'd first like to start developing at home, as well. Anybody have some suggestions as to how I should begin? Do most of you have your own enlargers or are you just scanning negatives?
*DUMBCAN*
Active member
I haven't been shooting film for long, but I've been developing b&w since I started. I'm a chemistry student so it was logical considering a shop selling darkroom chemicals is all of five minutes walk from my house haha.
Start with black and white. It's cheapest and doesn't really need any temperature control, room temp is normally fine. That's in comparison to say, e6 (slide) which needs to be 38ºC +/- 1/2º. Search google for tutorials, they'll be some on youtube. Use deionised water, google it.
Get darkroom equipment on ebay, people are always getting rid of kit they used twice. Chemicals are available from loads of places, I'm not familiar with American places but B&H have a good range. You could also try getting a kit first time, they tend to have instructions of what to do as well.
You know those two rolls of film that you shot through ages ago and don't care to develop? Use them to practice opening the canister, both in light and in the changing bag.
Use a changing bag when you're putting the film into the canister, that way you can do it all in a light room. I do this in my bedroom haha, I only need my uni darkroom for printing. I think most people here scan negatives, but in my mind making prints is the second most fun part of the process, after actually taking the photos. Printing actually requires a fully dark room, then you can use a red safelight. This may or may not be easy, depending on the room.
Start with black and white. It's cheapest and doesn't really need any temperature control, room temp is normally fine. That's in comparison to say, e6 (slide) which needs to be 38ºC +/- 1/2º. Search google for tutorials, they'll be some on youtube. Use deionised water, google it.
Get darkroom equipment on ebay, people are always getting rid of kit they used twice. Chemicals are available from loads of places, I'm not familiar with American places but B&H have a good range. You could also try getting a kit first time, they tend to have instructions of what to do as well.
You know those two rolls of film that you shot through ages ago and don't care to develop? Use them to practice opening the canister, both in light and in the changing bag.
Use a changing bag when you're putting the film into the canister, that way you can do it all in a light room. I do this in my bedroom haha, I only need my uni darkroom for printing. I think most people here scan negatives, but in my mind making prints is the second most fun part of the process, after actually taking the photos. Printing actually requires a fully dark room, then you can use a red safelight. This may or may not be easy, depending on the room.
cydwhit
Active member
Stoked about this thread. I have only been shooting film for a little while with an OM-10 I got off craigslist. Hopefully I can score something nicer for cheap somewhere eventually. Here are a few of my shots:
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Just got back from a trip to Mexico where I shot quite a bit so I am stoked to see those as well. I am definitely a film gaper but the experience is super fun.
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Just got back from a trip to Mexico where I shot quite a bit so I am stoked to see those as well. I am definitely a film gaper but the experience is super fun.
erikK
Active member
Looking for advice on my first SLR purchase:
Been wanting to get into film for forever now. How risky is buying a used film camera off craigslist? At first I thought I'd hardly have anything to worry about but I'm kinda hearing that they could have some problems if they've been sitting for a long time or whatever. I know absolutely nothing about film, but my father has been telling me that I should go for something like a Nikon FM (I'm not really considering anything that isn't Nikon), my research seems to agree.
Now, I found this ad http://www.kijiji.ca/v-camera-camcorder-lens/calgary/film-camera-for-sale/565298060 so I emailed the guy about the FM2 and he'll take $100 for it. On ebay, etc FM2's are going for quite a bit more. Before I go take a look at this thing is there anything I should really look out for? I can at least test the shutter without putting a roll in it right? The guy has terrible english and I'm getting the vibe he doesn't know much about the camera, but is there anything specific I should ask him about it?
And lastly if I should be looking at different cameras or if this deal is a ripoff or whatever I'd love some advice, looking to spend around $100 and be able to use my Nikon glass.
Thanks
Been wanting to get into film for forever now. How risky is buying a used film camera off craigslist? At first I thought I'd hardly have anything to worry about but I'm kinda hearing that they could have some problems if they've been sitting for a long time or whatever. I know absolutely nothing about film, but my father has been telling me that I should go for something like a Nikon FM (I'm not really considering anything that isn't Nikon), my research seems to agree.
Now, I found this ad http://www.kijiji.ca/v-camera-camcorder-lens/calgary/film-camera-for-sale/565298060 so I emailed the guy about the FM2 and he'll take $100 for it. On ebay, etc FM2's are going for quite a bit more. Before I go take a look at this thing is there anything I should really look out for? I can at least test the shutter without putting a roll in it right? The guy has terrible english and I'm getting the vibe he doesn't know much about the camera, but is there anything specific I should ask him about it?
And lastly if I should be looking at different cameras or if this deal is a ripoff or whatever I'd love some advice, looking to spend around $100 and be able to use my Nikon glass.
Thanks
I've tried it, as I have a film loader, but honestly, it's more of a pain in the ass than it's worth. Least to me...
Yeah, you save a little bit, but not that much. Plus, honestly, I shoot so much different film that it's not really my thing. I currently have 3 hasselblad backs, loaded with 3 different films, and 3 different SLR systems loaded with 3 different films. I take out what I want for the environment I'm shooting in.
Yeah, you save a little bit, but not that much. Plus, honestly, I shoot so much different film that it's not really my thing. I currently have 3 hasselblad backs, loaded with 3 different films, and 3 different SLR systems loaded with 3 different films. I take out what I want for the environment I'm shooting in.
TijmenDal
Active member
I bulk load quite a bit. Now that Arista Premium has been dicontinued I'd get on that bulk-loading train if I were you (and if you're in the US).
A 100' roll of HP5 is only 50$ and you get about 18-19 rolls out of it. That's a little over 2,50$/roll. Basically you easily save over a dollar per roll. It takes 2 minutes tops to roll. Well worth your time I think.
@ErikK: Don't bother with an FM2. Sure they're great camera's but just get a good condition cheap Nikon like an FG or something. They're probably like 20$ and work just fine.
A 100' roll of HP5 is only 50$ and you get about 18-19 rolls out of it. That's a little over 2,50$/roll. Basically you easily save over a dollar per roll. It takes 2 minutes tops to roll. Well worth your time I think.
@ErikK: Don't bother with an FM2. Sure they're great camera's but just get a good condition cheap Nikon like an FG or something. They're probably like 20$ and work just fine.
I agree. The FM2 is pretty unnecessary, as it's simply a fully manual exposure camera with a 1/4000 shutter speed. Impressive for it's day, but really doesn't do anything for you or warrant the price. It's well made and all, but most Nikons were well made back then (save for maybe the EM)
a Nikon FG is of poorer quality than the FE/FM series, but it's also got Aperture priority and Program auto-exposure options to go along with Full-Manual. Pretty nice for if you want some dummy modes. (personally, I love shoot in Aperture Priority if I'm not preparing a specific shot, so it's nice to have).
The only caveat with one is that it won't work with non-AI lenses (pre-1977). If you want to shoot these (they're more affordable if that means anything to you), I recommend the FE or FM cameras since they support them well. Don't get the FE2/FM2 in this case, as they will not work with Non-AI lenses, and only really offer you 2 stops of faster max shutter speed and TTL flash in return. Otherwise, same camera and costs more for stuff you don't really need.
Personally, I loved my FE before it became the only one I've known to have the shutter fail (strangely enough, it still works in M90 backup mode), and my 15$ FG has taken it's place very well ever since as my go-to MF Nikon body.
a Nikon FG is of poorer quality than the FE/FM series, but it's also got Aperture priority and Program auto-exposure options to go along with Full-Manual. Pretty nice for if you want some dummy modes. (personally, I love shoot in Aperture Priority if I'm not preparing a specific shot, so it's nice to have).
The only caveat with one is that it won't work with non-AI lenses (pre-1977). If you want to shoot these (they're more affordable if that means anything to you), I recommend the FE or FM cameras since they support them well. Don't get the FE2/FM2 in this case, as they will not work with Non-AI lenses, and only really offer you 2 stops of faster max shutter speed and TTL flash in return. Otherwise, same camera and costs more for stuff you don't really need.
Personally, I loved my FE before it became the only one I've known to have the shutter fail (strangely enough, it still works in M90 backup mode), and my 15$ FG has taken it's place very well ever since as my go-to MF Nikon body.
erikK
Active member
Thanks for the responses guys, the FG is pretty much what I'm looking for minus the high price tag. And I'm assuming since neither of you said anything about common problems that as long as the body is in decent condition I shouldn't have to worry. Probably gonna try to snag an FG off eBay this week 
steezysteeze
Active member
Anybody on here have any experience with wet plate photography? I'm thinking of involving it in a science project and if anybody with experience could share some tips that would be sick. So far I've looked into it here: http://fstoppers.com/step-by-step-guide-to-wet-plate-photography and I'm wondering if it's worth getting the kit if I'm going to try and make visual positives on black metal.
TijmenDal
Active member
Yeah. It sucks. Luckily I managed to snag 80 rolls just before they ran out. They only have the 24 exposure rolls left, which is still priced ok. Tri-X is a little over a 4 dollars a roll. If you don't develop yourself it's cheaper to buy 36 exp Tri-X than 24 exp Arista. Heck, even if you do develop yourself its probably cheaper to get Tri-X.
High price tag? You can find FG's for 20-30 bucks without even batting an eye... with a E-series 50mm for no more than ~70 bucks...
TijmenDal
Active member
Has anyone got experience shooting experience with shooting film in the high alpine? I'm talking 8000'+, everything white. It might be spring(ish), but where I'm heading just got 50cm (that's 1'6") and about a meter on the way (3'), so everything'll be white. I'm sleeping in a hut at around 7500' altitude.
I'm taking my Hexar AF. The meter in that thing is amazing, but I don't know if I can trust it in tricky conditions like that. Or should I just overxpose a stop or two? I've also been thinking I should bring my incident meter.
I'm taking my Hexar AF. The meter in that thing is amazing, but I don't know if I can trust it in tricky conditions like that. Or should I just overxpose a stop or two? I've also been thinking I should bring my incident meter.
cydwhit
Active member
Is the sun going to be out? I feel like you might have difficulty with the low maximum shutter speed on your hexar in that case... You might be forced to overexpose.