END ALL FKS/Turntable thread (should sticky)

CTD

Active member
so these bindings are always being talked about, so how bout

making a dedicated answers thread for these guys? This is something ive been wanting to write for a while, and im bored and have time, so i wil.

heres my start, all about FKS / turntables.

The basic history:

the turntable design has been around forever, pretty much as long as the modern

binding. they have evolved a bit, but the basics are still the same. the modern

style has been around since the 80s. they have various toe pieces over

the years, but the heels are almost all the same.

How they work:

a pivoting plate under the heel has two threaded arms extending out the

side. these guys adjust for the fore/aft adjustment of the binding (allowing

you to fit different sized boots), and adjust the forward pressure. (the actual

forward pressure is applied by the little white/colored tab and spring that sit

on the bottom of the baseplate). the idea behind the design is it forces your

boot to pivot from the center of your leg, instead of behind it on the boot

lug. this makes it safer in almost all falls.

Why they are so good:

people buy these for various reasons, but in my opinion, the best thing about

these guys, is the mounting pattern. the heel screws are all mounted under the

footprint of your boot. this allows the ski to flex MUCH more naturally.

better ollies, more natural turns, smoother flex etc etc.

the sloping adj. arms transfer energy right down to the edge. again, this makes

the ski ride phenomenally well.

These guys have amazing elasticity and retention. so when you ALMOST

fall, the binding is more likely to recenter back on your boot. if you

are blowing out of your bindings, these are what you need.­­

Variations:

there are pretty much two styles of heelpieces. The most modern version uses

large rivets to attach the forward pressure arms to the baseplate. The older

versions use a hooked arm that fits into a plastic encased metal tab. The newer

style transfers slightly more energy to the ski. Other than that, they are

mechanically identical.

as for toe pieces, there have been numerous. The current race toe, the original

style pivot toe (with little rubber insets), the modern pivot toe, the Zrace

toe (yshapped), and my favorite, which I don’t know the name, but have

adjustable upward release and and preload.

Downfalls

these bindings are awesome, but that performance doesn’t come without flaws.

for one, the turntable design makes the binding safe in most falls. However, in

a fall where you are pivoting off your toe, or your ski is kicked off to the

side, they will lock you in, until something gives (your knee or ankle usually).

This kind of fall is fairly rare, and is almost never a problem. In my 7 years

of skiing turntables, this has happened twice. Both times sucked, but still

good odds.

the tight mounting pattern puts a lot of torque on the ski, and these guys are

slightly more prone to ripping out. Its not a big problem, but on soft-cored

skis (salomons, fir K2s, anything without a fiberglass mounting plate), they

are a tad more likely to pull out. I and many I know ride them on these skis,

and don’t have problems, but it’s a lil more likely to happen.

the brakes suck. They are soft, narrow, and a bitch to replace once they are

mounted. (Someone can link the TGR post on replacing/bending them)

they break (but still work). on all but the newest bindings, the half moon plate

that holds the rear two screws is plastic. Ive broken a couple of them (new

ones are aluminum). They are tough, but not indestructible. If they do brake,

it really doesn’t effect anything usually. Also, on almost every well-skied

pair ive ever seen, the two small plastic disk that sit directly between the

forward pressure arms and the spring housing are cracked. Again, it really

doesn’t affect anything, but they still crack.

they are pain in the ass to use. Unlike the pivot consumer bindings, the turntable

heel doesn’t recenter automatically. So just about every time you fall you have

to reach down and do it. stepping them down is also a pain, as it almost always

kicks out to the side. You also have to keep an eye on the forward pressure

rods. Over time they can loosen up a bit.

Pivot VS turntable

the consumer level pivot is a bitching binding. It takes everything about the

turntable, and makes it easier to use. The release is also much smoother.

However, the boot-to-ski interface tends to get a little sloppy over time due

to the smaller pivot diameter. The pivot toe is prolly the safest toe piece in

the world, but also is a lil sloppy. The turntable is also a bit burlier, although

the pivot is plenty strong. The mostly metal turntables can also be

rebuilt/repainted, while the pivots have a shorter overall lifespan.

 
sounds good...any info on tightening up the rods and a the link to the tgr replacement thread...
 
nice job. i hope they decide to bring the fks style heels back next year because they realized what a noobish decision it was to get rid of them.
 
definitly true about the turntable design has been around for ever, my mom had a pair of p12's in the 70's when she skied, and they lasted her 9 seasons, no joke
 
Everything is accurate except the brakes being weak, rossi brakes are pretty burly, way more so than Sally brakes.
 
legitamate post, that answered a few of my questions, but

Is it true that an FKS 185 set at the highest DIN is stronger than a human femur? I heard that somewhere
 
I'm pretty sure I heard somwhere that the femur will spiral fracture at a DIN of 14...not sure if that is accurate, but if so, guess it just takes the right kind of fall.
 
All DIN values are derived from the force needed to break human bones. The original values were found by Germans forcing prisoners of war to ski into walls, so I'm told.
 
i think thats dependant. you can definitely pop out at 18. in a sustained, slower pivoting fall, yea, it prolly wont let you out, and could prolly break a leg. it can def. tear your knee up. however, at high speeds, and a very sudden impact force, they are more likely to eject, as all that force is applied very quickly instead of over time, resulting in a very quick jump in pressure, which you can usually withstand.

that being said, id still say FKS 185s have no place on a park ski, unless you are consistently hitting huge tables or weight 200+.
 
bump. can someone explain how the correct forward pressure is indicated at the heel?

and how easy are the heels suppose to rotate? does it still function well if stepped in when the turntables aren't perfectly centered and slightly turned?
 
Dont' know about the forward pressure, would like to know that too.

To answer your other questions, they take a little bit of force to rotate, they don't just freely swing around.

If you are stepped in to the bindings it means that they are lined up. It wont let you in if they are off center.
 
Yeah my boss in Whistler was an ex Canadian WC tech for Swix. I'm pretty sure he wasn't kidding.
 
The forward pressure indicator is the little white (or other colored) tab at the back of the baseplate... when there is no boot the tab sits all the way forward because of the forward pressure indicator spring, when adjusted properly and the boot is in the binding, the end of the tab will line up with the two small lines on the baseplate...see pictures.

Forward pressure indicator in the normal, no ski boot in the binding position:
DSC05915.jpg


Where it will be when adjusted properly and the boot is snapped into the binding:
DSC05913.jpg
 
Good read.

I've got a pair of Rossi Race 120's I got in the early '00s, maybe '01? They still work perfectly and are in awesome shape. Paid $85 for them brand new from a shop at the time.
 
I can click into my bindings when the heels aren't centered, is that bad?

and thanks for the forward pressure pictures, i'll check out my bindings later.
 
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