Do cheaper, decent mountain bikes exist?

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NolDog1123

Member
I'm looking to pick up mountain bikes for my wife and I that will be used 50% road and 50% light off-road. I was talking to my neighbor who said that I won't get anything decent for under $800 - and sounded like he was even weary about that...he suggested spending at least $1,000

Are there bikes out there - that don't suck - and will run $300-400 dollars? All we need are bikes that won't fall apart and can take a bump or two through park trails.
 
I got a great $1500 Kona Dawg from Killington for $400. I got it at what it cost them to buy it at, because everyone knows my dad at Killington. It is for exactly what you want. It defined as a cross country bike, and it is full suspension. I would say if there is a place that rents bikes, buy one of theirs. I know you can buy the Dawgs at Killington for 600-650 now foranybody.
 
For that price, you wouldn't get half a freeride/downhill setup, but I guess you could look at a XC bike, or similar.

You won't get a decent setup for that price... a solid one at least.

Kona Fire Mountain? Around $400~ish.
 
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goes for around 555, there's a few lower models also
 
look for sales on ironhorse bikes.

they have some issues with components, but overall its a ballsy bike for a bit less money than the big names
 
I got a cross country Jamis Durrango for $600, it's okay, but you might want something like a Kona Shred (if you're into mild, jumping, trials type stuff) for about the same price.

But most downhill bikes are a lot more.
 
the main things you want to be wary of when buying a cheaper bike is the componentry. you've got to be wary of stuff thats there for show. take disc brakes for example, the manufacturer can put shitty mechanical discs onto a cheap bike because they look pimp and people will think that it is a better bike because of it. yes, they are disc brakes, but there are disc brakes and disc brakes. in many cases v brakes will actually stop better than crap mech discs. You should look more at the drive train, eg what sort of derauliers does it have? if its got shimano gear, try not to go lower than deore stuff. Its that stuff that is gonna make your riding more enjoyable, because when that person that bought the bike that looked flash is struggling on the trail and bitching about the shitty gears on their bike you will be clicking smoothly through the gears on your bike and leaving them in your dust. you're probably best to stear clear of a full suspension bike for the same reasons, unless you can find a legit second hand fully. for beginners riding a hardtail is a better learning experience anyway, it will force you to learn to ride smoothly and pick the beest lines, instead of just bashing blindly through the trails using the suspension to make up for rider error
 
This guy knows whats up... In all honesty, most of what's been posted above is garbage. You don't need a full suspension bike with top end drivetrain and 6 inches or more of shocks front and back. Personally I'd reccommend a Chromoly Steel frame which a number of the major bike companies use. It's sturdier than Aluminum and cheaper to manufacture. I rode a Raleigh M-40 for many years before I bought my first XC bike and full suspension bike. Since you are going to be 50% road and 50% trail, you should instead consider something that is going to put you in a more comfortable riding position, higher rise stem and maybe riser bars if your back isn't up to leaning forward much. Components don't need to be outrageous either, there are really only two options here SRAM which makes shifters both in the Trigger style and the Grip shift style and Shimano. And to the guy I quoted, mechanical disc brakes are not as shitty as you claim them to be. Avid makes great cable actuated brakes, but disc brakes won't neccessarily be needed in this case. Basically, go hit up a few bike shops, let them know what kind of riding you are going to be doing, and your budget, they will help you find something that fits your needs and is comfortable to ride.
 
word, there are good mech discs, but on a lower end bike it may be harder to find one with good mechs rather than one with good v brakes. the key thing about finding a good bike is taking your time and doing your homework, get a feel for whats good componentry, look around various bike shops, talk to the mechanics (they know their shit) and you'll know a good deal when you see one
 
the previous 2 posts are right on. many years ago i purchased a low end trek hardtail for 400 bucks, and i still can't believe how well it held up, even with the lowest end components on it too. i've ridden it really hard for like 7 years and it still works decently. look around a little and you'll find some good bikes for your price range with no problem.
 
try and look for sram drivtrane stuff there lower end stuff works just as good as shimanos figher end stuff also. iron horse giant and kona all are good values for there compent selection (whach out on iron horse though cause if you buy them at a cheap place they are going to suck)
 
so your married and asking 13 yr old newschool skiing addicts about where to find cheap decent bikes?

sales duh.

i got a kona stinky 700$ off and it was brand new at a clearance sale.
 
dont get a trek. the geometry suck for offroad. giant bikes are a bargain and the geometry's fine. as i mentioned before, the stp 2 is your bike. its discontinued so it might be hardish to find, but it also means the bike might be alot cheaper. (about $375)
 
word. i love the stp. i can flat ground 180 those things are sooo light. in fact, LOST...666 IS selling an stp size small for 200$ fyi
 
Take your bike to a bike shop, a decent shop that is, and they'll package and ship the bike for you for roughly $35 last I checked.
 
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