DIN settings

@tlas

@tlas

Active member
NO THIS IS NOT A WHAT DIN SHOULD I RUN... I am just wondering if it is ok for me to ride a 14 din binding?

Im looking at pivot 14s, im about 140 & i ski at an advanced level. Can i buy pivot 14's or do i have to scavenge for old fks 12's?
 
you weigh 140 and want to ride at a higher din? wouldnt recomend it. have fun with fucking your knees up. just get some px12?
 
well i am basically asking if it is really bad to have the binding at one of its lowest settings?
 
you typically don't want to be on either end of the spectrum, those are 5-14 correct? what Din are you riding now?
 
i'd say go for it. usually the higher the din range, the better the quality of the binding. go for durability. you may be happy that you have a higher range if you find yourself progressing and need to turn up the din
 
false.

The din on the 14s at a 5 is going to be the same tension as a lower range binding at a 5. they SHOULD be all the same at that setting. If that is the lowest the binding goes... and you are in the lower range, I'd say you bought a binding you do not need.

as for a 6? I'm quite a bit smaller than 140 and I ride higher than a 6. If you are an advanced/expert skier, its preference if you know what you are doing. If you are racing, you go even higher. Din charts will give you a reading for what you SHOULD be at to properly pop out at different torques. I do not want to pop out with certain skis. :)
 
Being at the lower end of the DIN range is not a problem. In my opinion this talk about how you shouldn't be at the low or high end of the range doesn't make any sense. The bindings are tested to work throughout the entire range. If the binding has a DIN range of 6-14, that means you can run it at 6 or 14 and anything in between. Why would it have that range otherwise?

Also "you don't need those bindings if you're going to run DIN 7" is bullshit. There are other things to consider besides the DIN range. Durability of the binding is, to me, the most important thing. People who weigh less and therefore use a lower DIN setting can break bindings just as much as a heavier guy. Why shouldn't they be able to buy quality bindings?

There seems to be this air of mystery and exclusivity around high-end bindings on NS. Like you have to be Seth Morrison to use them. For example every time someone asks a question about FKS180s/Pivot 18s, someone points out "you shouldn't be using those bindings if you don't know the answer". Not true. There is no reason why you couldn't use the FKS180s if you run a DIN setting of at least 8 and want a super durable pair of bindings. Hell, I almost bought them and I run DIN 9 (I went with the 14s because they are lighter).

Rant over.

To the OP: You will be fine with either the 12s or the 14s. The Pivots are my favorite pair of bindings.I got my first pair last year and this year I didn't have to think twice when looking for bindings to mount on my new skis. Pivots all the way.

 
the reason you don't run at the top of the din is because that puts extreme amounts of stress and pressure on the spring which the binding is not made for. For example, when putting your skis away for the summer you should turn down your dins to the lowest setting, this preserves the spring and it will not have constant pressure on it. Same goes for cranking the din. ITS JUST IS NOT GOOD FOR THE BINDING. If you have your binding cranked to the top, this causes in consistant release. Sure its "not a problem" if you dont want your ski coming off, but for MOST people who ski park ( minus pros etc) dont need to run a din as high as the binding goes.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top