DIN for freeriding?

K

KungPowPow

Member
Trying to decide between buying Barons or Dukes. I currently have my DINs at 10, but I'm not sure if this is correct. I ski 90% backcountry freeride and the other 10% on piste. Currently I'm on Jesters but I'd like AT bindings. What DIN would you recommend?

155lbs

5' 11"

18yrs

Expert

I find myself popping out when doing bomber runs on hard pack simply because my skis chatter so much (Line EP Pros) but I can live with that if my DIN of 10 is right for me. With the extra that I'd save by buying Barons, I could put towards climbing skins.

 
Do you know what DIN is? It's the release setting. You clearly don't know what you're talking about, so dont fuck with it
 
If you're comfortable riding at 10 inbounds, you'll be comfortable riding at 10 out of bounds.

Or you could crank them up to 14 and tempt fate.
 
Go troll elsewhere, Blake. I asked a genuine question not befitting of your dimwitted response.

The reason I ask is because I have never had the bindings professionally adjusted. Yes, I know what DINs are; that doesn't mean I know what setting is best. I used dinsetting.com last season to adjust the bindings since I got my skis used, however I'm skeptical of those values since I keep popping out, as stated above. Many times, techs at professional shops will account for the type of skiing one will be doing, not just how good they are. Landing big cliffs and jumps in the backcountry will almost always warrant a higher DIN than inbounds.

Perhaps restating my question would be better. If I have my DINs at 10, the recommended value on dinsetting.com for a Type 3+ skier of my profile, is it normal that my skis would still pop out unnecessarily on hardpack with powder skis? Or, does anyone else have the same problem? I don't pop out in the backcountry unless I eat it badly, but it it is very annoying to be bombing down hardpack to catch one last chair, only to have my boot pop out due to the skis chattering. Perhaps there is another binding setting that I am overlooking that isn't set correctly for my boot?
 
Sounds like a problem i had. I always charge super hard and popped out like no other. so i being ignorant ramped up my dins. Finally broke my binding once so i took them in and the shop guy told me about forward pressure. On the toe piece of your bindings there should be wings. And if you look down at them (from above) there should be screws on either side of the center. Tighten these down till their pretty firm. this will drop the whole head of the binding down more onto the boot. AND drop the dins back down to a recommended amount.
 
+K for you. I'll do more research, but do you know how snugly they're supposed to fit on the toepiece of the boot? I have my skis out right now and can do adjustments tonight.
 
forgot to add: do this every couple of weeks or when you notice them popping off alot.

And i get them pretty firm against my boots. not cranking down to being able to only twist an 8th of a rotation, but not so sloppy that it turns with out a problem.
 
Go with the dukes. Leaves you room to grow if needed. I personally also like to have my pow skis at a higher din, because they are more of a pain to chase after
 
im 180 lbs and ride pretty hard. I would never risk anything lower then 11 at the lowest.

My park skis are at 12, Pow skis at 15 for normal skiing 18 for comps
 
sounds like the problem with your current bindings is being adjusted to your boots properly, not the din setting. bring them to a shop and have them checked. you definitely should not be able to chatter out of your bindings, even with the din really low.

generally you want your din as low as possible, meaning the lowest setting that will allow you to always release when you need to, and not release when you don't want to. personally, I really don't like my skis coming off so i've developed a style of falling to keep my knees safe and my skis on my feet. I started with what the shop set them too (6.5, im 5'9" 155) and increased them by half a point everyday till i stopped consistently ejecting out when i could have rode away. I now have them at 11, which lets them come off when something goes really really wrong but keeps them on whenever my knees aren't in danger.

and to answer your question, if you have the money, get the dukes. theoretically the should last way longer than the barons will.
 
i think this is a forward pressure issue. dukes have tremendously high forward pressure and i can imagine jesters do as well. when the boot is clicked into the binding there's a screw that appears underneath where the dildo heel snaps up. when the binding is engaged the adjustment screw should be flush with the housing it comes out of. if it's not, adjust it so it's flush, take the boot out, and snap the boot back in and i bet you'll have to adjust a few more times after that

barons will be fine if you're comfortable riding at 10, but you don't want to go much higher than 10 on barons. not because you can't max out din since that's generally a myth, but barons are plastic and if you're a 12 din rider charging hard you'll be right on the edge of what barons can handle.

i ride my dukes at like 12-13 and i still pre release randomly sometimes, they really aren't ideal bindings but they're the best of their kind so far
 
the dude at the shop i got mine mounted at said i should be on a 7.5 and when i said i was thinking about a 10 (i ski basically 100% park) he looked at me like i had 4 heads and said he had never mounted someone that high and i was a little confused because some bindings have a max din of like 18 right ? and if a 10 is crazy why would they have an option of going up to 18?
 
This. Just make sure you are adjusting the forward pressure and not the DIN. The forward pressure screw makes clicking noises.
 
Durp the din screw wont be close on the royal series, just to used to mounting shitty 10.0's at the shop, disregard the first part of my last post.
 
Since no ones done it yet, I'll explain how to check the forward pressure on the royal series. At the back of your heelpiece near the heel track there is a worm screw. With the boot clicked into the binding, the ridge on the head of the worm screw should be flush with the casing it sits in.

Also semi-related, it seems like a lot of folks on here overlook their BSL when setting their din. Someone can be the same size as me, but have a DIN up to 3 different than me just based on their BSL being different.

 
That's why you shouldnt adjust without a chart ^^ then go from there if you're still releasing
 
This is the only way to adjust DIN imo. For weekend warriors (rental customers, beginner skiers etc) the DIN chart serves a useful function, but for people who actually push their equipment, it's only a starting point. I ride at 10 and I'm 6'1" 160lbs.
 
a shop will never go over 8 realistically. Think of it this way. If the shop puts your DIN at 14 then you go out fall, ski stays on and you break your leg or wreck your knee, your automatically going to be pissed at the shop. Its a huge liability thus being why they wont mount any higher.
 
if you find yourself releasing and it is NOT your forward pressure, then yes. I'd recommend doing it slowly though, like plus one for starters, then up by one.
 
I don't know about that, I'm a light guy and they threw my DINs up to 8, so a heavier guy would have been put at at least 10 or 11. I really think it just comes down to the brand you ride. An 8 on a FKS could be a 12 on a Jester, etc.(exageratted)
 
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