Core shot repair

[deac]

Got this pretty nasty coreshot while night skiing, should I just score the core and fill it with ptex or thin layer of gflex and then ptex over it.

 

[iDontHitRails]

Cut out the edges of the core shot so it’s clean and then get some base weld if you can then p-Tex over it. If not then I’d gflex then ptex

 

[Voyage86]

i wouldn’t cut the edge out. it looks pretty solid

 

[SchizoSkier]

i wouldn’t cut the edge out. it looks pretty solid

He didn’t say that he meant to cut the part that is sticking up

 

[Voyage86]

He didn’t say that he meant to cut the part that is sticking up

oof, i glanced quickly at it and read it wrong. ya what he said is right.

 

[deac]

i wouldn’t cut the edge out. it looks pretty solid

my edges are fine i think, only some rolling from the rock but thats it

 

[Voyage86]

my edges are fine i think, only some rolling from the rock but thats it

ya your good. i was replying to the dude infront of me and i misread his comment. don’t mind me

 

[hi_vis360]

Metal grip then ptex

 

[ski_salmon69]

This would’ve happened if you were day skiing your skis are toast buddy

 

[deac]

This would’ve happened if you were day skiing your skis are toast buddy

someone has never been nightskiing

 

[ski_salmon69]

someone has never been nightskiing

i don’t ski

 

[jompcock]

smooth it out, sand the exposed fiberglass, get all the dust out, rub with alcohol, glob some epoxy in there (I use west system 205 with chopped glass but use whatever you can find that's good), squeegee it just above base level and take it to a shop to get a base grind. If you do it right it'll be totally flush with the base and probably outlast the ski.

Basically the better job you do prepping it by sanding and cleaning it out, the more likely any epoxy will stay in there. Also if you don't wanna get a base grind use a file to get it flush with the base.

 

[drifts]

smooth it out, sand the exposed fiberglass, get all the dust out, rub with alcohol, glob some epoxy in there (I use west system 205 with chopped glass but use whatever you can find that's good), squeegee it just above base level and take it to a shop to get a base grind. If you do it right it'll be totally flush with the base and probably outlast the ski.

Basically the better job you do prepping it by sanding and cleaning it out, the more likely any epoxy will stay in there. Also if you don't wanna get a base grind use a file to get it flush with the base.

dont do this. filling it with epoxy is terrible advise. instead refer to [tag=189437]@DominatorJacques[/tag] video on base repairs, you need metal grip and a soldering iron

**This post was edited on Jan 15th 2024 at 4:30:29pm

 

[jompcock]

dont do this. filling it with epoxy is terrible advise. instead refer to [tag=189437]@DominatorJacques[/tag] video on base repairs, you need metal grip and a soldering iron

I'll post photos later but the result was literally perfect and has not come out after 2 years. If a tiny spot of epoxy instead of a porous p tex surface is so detrimental to your speed then you should probably get rid of the skis cause they'll never be the same anyway.

 

[drifts]

I'll post photos later but the result was literally perfect and has not come out after 2 years. If a tiny spot of epoxy instead of a porous p tex surface is so detrimental to your speed then you should probably get rid of the skis cause they'll never be the same anyway.

I don't understand why you wouldn't fix it the "proper" way when its faster and easier to do. working with metal grip and ptex is less fuss than mixing epoxy and waiting for it to cure, its a lot easier to scrape it down and have a smooth finish with ptex and youll be done and rideable in like 30 min. not saying it wont work but why would you?

**This post was edited on Jan 16th 2024 at 5:51:58pm

 

[jompcock]

I don't understand why you wouldn't fix it the "proper" way when its faster and easier to do. working with metal grip and ptex is less fuss than mixing epoxy and waiting for it to cure, its a lot easier to scrape it down and have a smooth finish with ptex and youll be done and rideable in like 30 min. not saying it wont work but why would you?

**This post was edited on Jan 16th 2024 at 5:51:58pm

Because in my experience base welding a core shot near the edge is really difficult to make hold properly. Also used UV resin on a core shot last week which cures in like 20 seconds and skiing last weekend had no issues. With UV resin you use masking tape to keep the surrounding area clean, fill with resin and place clear tape over it to get it completely flat.

In general I've just never had good luck getting p tex to stay on core shots, I feel like it always ends up ripping out. I still use it for deep scratches that don't go all the way through.