Cold Air Intake & Catback Exhaust?

post a pic of that thing i wanna see it, as for the question i would just shop around to what you think would work best for how you drive etc.
 
I'm sure he means a bigger turbo. And I agree with whats said above, I wouldn't waste your time with an intake...yet. Get a new exhaust/uppipe/downpipe and a chip and a professional tune. Can't stress that one enough. Afterwards you can deal with new injectors, fuel pump, turbo, FMIC and the like.

My WRX with a uppipe, downpipe, STi exhaust, Chip and tune is plenty fast for me. I don't race it though.
 
dont get an intake. stock intake is proven to outperfrom aftermarket ones. just do the silencer delete if you just want to hear the turbo spool more. but exhaust wise i have a full ERZ system, downpipe and cat back. and i just de-catted my stock uppipe.
 
sell it and buy :

2005 WRX STI

2001-2003 Audi S4

on a high compression turbo like a WRX, cat back wouldnt do shit

you want TURBO-back exhaust. And you want high flow Cats.

Cold air intake is NOT what you want especially if your driving in wet conditions.

you just want a high performance air intake (cold air bends down and is alot closer to the ground)

If you ever have money to throw at your car, you can do a bolt-on turbo upgrade and get +400 HP
 
DO NOT put a cold air intake on it. wrx stock airbox is very suffiecient, a cold air intake will lean the car out like whoa and possibly cause detonation. if you want sound, go with a catback first. if you want power, go with a downpipe first. a good catback is the hks carbon-Ti, and any downpipe even ebay downpipes are fine.
 
you guys are idiots. besides paul. whoever said that wrx's have high compression motors needs to learn what boost is and what it does to forced induced motors. forced induced motors need LOW compression to prevent detonation. 02-05 wrx stock compression is 8.0:1, runs 13.5 lbs of boost, and holds an afr of 11.1:1 that is VERY rich for a stock car. 06-07 has an extra .5 litres(so torque is greatly increased), same turbo(td04L-13T-6cm), just less boost 11.2lbs +/- .5 psi. 1st and 2nd and 3rd gear were also widened for the increased torque. subaru must of had sticks in their asses when they designed this car. who puts cats pre-turbo?

anyways, dont put an intake on a wrx untill your making 400+ whp. theres 3279867 reasons not to.

1. its right near the turbo, which means no matter how special of a heat shield you can get your still going to heat soak the intake and induce hot air.

2. by throwing an intake on without proper engine management, the motor induces more air without adjusting fuel curve. which means car runs lean, and runs the risk of detonating, poeple have seen knock corrections near -7, pull major timing and then you have a slow car that runs horrible ignition timing.

3. forget catback, either do downpipe or uppipe first. downpipe is where all the power is, uppipe will get you on boost much sooner. combine that with the extra .5 litres the 06-07's have and the mucho torque they make youll be on boost by 2200 rpms. practically off idle. all a catback does is make the car louder. if you want sound unbolt the stock axleback remove gasket and put washers between the bolts.

4. most intakes for wrx's make them run worse, theres 3 that are proven to keep the same performance. NO increase. They are the aps cold air, injen cold air, and spt short ram. all these do is make the turbo louder, some occasions people have seen better throttle response and smoother boost curve.
 
ok unless you change the exhaust all the way from the headers it wont do that much, oh and take the catalyic converter cut it off then have the exhaust pipe run with out it, then weld the converter overtop of the pipe but dont use it, just make it look like its there for inspections and shit, this will easily give you 30+ hp
 
stock wrx headers are very very good and have the perfect balance of low end torque and top end power. lol you dont need to cut anything, its called cutting the cats. theres 3 cats, one in the uppipe, and 2 in the downpipe. if you take uppipe and downpipe off you can drill out the cats and "gut" them. you wont get 30+ hp without tuning for it trust me. pretty much everything on these cars needs to be tuned for. youll have much better spool and make the boost control solendoids like alot easier
 
how about....

you leave it stock because it's fucking fast enough already, and actually have a valid warranty on your brand new car if it has gremlins from the factory or transmission problems down the road (classic WRX problem because people don't know how to drive AWD).

SOA are bitches about the warranty, so unless you're loaded or have parents who will bail you out, don't fuck with it for a couple of thousand miles at least.
 
i have an 06 wagon. currently running stock uppipe(no need for upgrade on 06's) ERZ catback and downpipe. VF34 turbo. STi pink injectors, cobb accessport, fuel pump (most annoying fucker ever), upgraded top mount IC, my hood hardly shuts. get tuned on the 1st at bushur racing. :D
 
PICT0008.jpg
the wagon when i first got it.
 
a wrx can be made way faster for way cheaper.

yo vincepru, what was wrong with the fuel pump haha you got a walbro? and what top mount? people have been making amazing numbers with ebay i/c's

be carefull once its tuned, the 5spd wrx tranny's are glass. you can tune a vf34 with a top mount to near if not more then 300 wheel. and our cars keep torque numbers right with horsepower, 300wtq is asking for trouble. any bit of shockload on the transmission and things will start breaking, trust me :)
 
its not awd people dont know how to drive, its that the car is turbocharged. things like partial throttle full boost, boost creep, blahblah esp once its modded
 
A lot of people coming from 2wd cars will just launch their subarus like they would any other car, which spells death for the drivetrain because wheel spin can't act as a kind of "fuse" for the launch. Instead, all that excess energy not converted to forward motion gets soaked up by the drivetrain which results in some fucked transmission components pretty damn quickly. Subaru transmissions are built well but people still don't understand that it's so easy to fuck them up. The classic WRX problem is kids breaking their transmissions from launching...

If he isn't going to be launching then I guess it isn't a problem, but it's still a terrible idea to blow the warranty so soon because a lot of vehicles have problems that materialize in the first couple of thousand miles and if he's already modded, then tough shit. Additionally, modding before the car is totally broken-in is just, like, why can't you wait a bit? Is the money really that uncomfortable in your wallet?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top