Binding Din

.jr

.jr

Active member
This is prolly stupid but is a Din on a px 18 the same as like a din on a cheap binding? Like say they both have a din 10 is the 10 on the cheap binding the same strength as the din on a PX 18?
 
too bad I did and I didnt find what I was lookin for.. but thanks for being a dick anyways
 
no the px 18 uses a secret code.

to get the real din you take the px 18 din and multiply by the square root of 3, add 6, divide by 0.5, and then finally take 50% of that number, subtract the GCF of 12 and 6, and multiply by 0.577350268 to get the real DIN
 
I'm not 100 percent on this but I believe that DIN is a measurement like horse power is.

no matter if its a geo or a ferrari 100 hp is 100 hp.

so 10 din should be 10 din no matter what.

i've also never met anyone that needed a din above 12 except for people that cant ski. if you ski smooth you shouldnt need a din over 10 unless youre doing some huge hits.

i know people that do 30+ footers with a 6.5 din.

slot of kids think they need a 12 din but have no idea either how to ski or what theyre doing.

the difference that you will find is in a lot more places than just the spring tension.
 
They will release with the same weight (i.e. din 10 is the same on all bindings) but a cheaper binding will be heavier, and won't release as well and in as many angles/situations as a more advanced binding.

i.e. they won't have things like rotating heel pieces.

Things like energy transfer and toe plate are important things to look for on bindings too. Cheaper bindings will be less efficient in these departments.

No one does 30 footers with a 6.5 din unless they weigh like 10 kgs. That's such a ridiculous claim it's untrue. And if they are doing that, they need to change their din setting.
 
Your full of shit! You obviously have no idea about din settings! Its not a ridiculous claim that someone could do 30 footer with a din of 6.5, and if they are doing that why the fuck would they need to change their din? its working isn't it. Your just a fucking retard!
 
I meant, if they are throwing themselves off a 30 footer, not necessarily landing it. I.e. if you are doing a 30 footer on 6.5 din, you are more than likely gonna bail out of it. But fair point, if it works, don't change it.

My pal sammy, sponsored by K2 free rides on 16 din setting. Hes about 5 foot 8 and weighs maximum 80kgs.

6.5 is fine if you're a beginner or intermediate or maybe if you have a boot sole length of 331mm or more. 30 footers though? not likely.
 
incorrect..

In theory a 10 on a 10 din and a 10 on an 18 din should release similar but that is not always true. It is not like horse power.

When a binding is cranked to its highest setting the spring is tightened and you run the risk it may not release when it should. Similarly when a binding is on its lowest setting, the spring is loose and may release easier than it should. Bindings are designed to release the most accurately and consistently when the chosen din is in the middle of its range.

Some one who rocks a din of 10 would find axium 100s (3-10) inappropriate,. While fks 185 are within optimal range (8-18) it is only 2 from the bottom. A binding like fks 155 (5-10) would be ideal.

Many people need 12 dins because of their height, weight, bsl or ability. People who ride a 12 din binding do not rock a din of 12. 4-12 din binding means their din should fall somewhere between 6 and 10. Dins of 6-10 aren't too unreasonable...
 
Also incorrect....

As i said above rockin a 10 on a 3-10 din binding is not a good idea.

Furthermore dins vary between companies. There is a reason each company produces their own din charts. A 10 din is not the same for all bindings
 
oops hit enter too soon.......

also a cheaper binding will not always be heavier. axiums (10 din) are lighter and cheaper than fks 120s (12 din) which are lighter and cheaper than fks 185 (18 din). usually higher din bindings are metal which may add to the weight while cheaper bindings usuallyincorporate plastic components. Also weight varies greatly between companies and can be difficult to compare.

If you looked a chart you would realize the height/ weight/ bsl/ ability for a 6.5. It isn't unreasonable. In fact i used to hit 70 ftrs with a din of 7.5. granted i was under 150
 
yea, besides the fact that you were wrong numerous times, i thought i would add that i hit jumps anywhere from 15-50 feet, and ride my din at 7. and im pretty good sized...
 
well Ive had a few troubles with my old axial 2 bindings.. I would have them up pretty high.. maybe a 10? (Im less than 150 lbs) and they would still come out too often. I would hit like a kink or a DFD rail and they would shoot off. So would it be stupid to find a cheaper binding and use that? I know it doesnt sound right to be but you guys said the cheaper the binding the less angles it will release at. I am riding some dynastar px12s right now and they worked out fine but Ive also got some look nova 10s and I was wondering if I could mount them and use them?

Side note does anyone know if Rossi has an email addressee? The axials plate broke and I am wondering if Rossi can do anything for me about it
 
I agree. I have tried to crank race skis up to their maximum din and they release easier. This was with like atomic 12 binders though. I have done the same with several markers. For me, my park binders are pivot 14s. I keep the din at about 11 and they rarely eject me. And I have never lost them when I shouldnt have.
 
DIN is universal if I'm not mistaken. Ski boots are also DIN standard so that they fit with all DIN bindings, because there's also ISO or some other kind of system. DIN is not the only part of a binding that matter when it comes to retention. Forward pressure varies, and some bindings are just dumb when it somes to retention, like the reactor. You could max those out and it didn't really make a difference.
 
so is there going to be a big difference between wether I ride a beginner binding and an expert one? Ive had a lot of trouble with the expert bindings releasing when I dont want them too
 
Generally, the DIN and the materials are what changes, so that the bindings don't come off, and also so that they can handle the stress generally put on by skiers who need a higher DIN, so that they don't explode. Other things change too, like forward pressure. Most of rossi's bindings have normal forward pressure, but then the higher end axials like the free 150's and 200's have like 30% more forward pressure I believe. This contributes to retention, but is more so that the boot doesn't move in the binding, so that the binding/boot interface is more efficient. If you're coming out of a high end binding alot, have them checked out. The whole reason for high end bindings is better retention with as little pre-release as possible. A shop tech who takes a look at them in person will be able to diagnose the problem better than ns.
 
Bottomline: Take it to a tech and have it checked out. Its impossible for us to diagnose it over the internet, even if i am a tech. There are tons of factors. Anotherthing to think about is your boot.
 
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