Big Wave Surfing Bails

I remember seeing that Koa Rothman bail a while back, its just insane. What gets me the most is that the reef is literally 2m below the surface and they are getting absolutely pounded. How they come up unscathed (well not always...) I will never know.
 
its so hard to explain to people that dont surf how extreme these bails are. the weight of that water falling on you is easily more than several cars. and they dont understand that the force of the wave actually holds you under for a long period of time, which becomes incredibly scary. you dont know which way is up and you just hold your breath and hope for the pressure to ease. usually you surface and there is another one that breaks on top of you and pushes you under again, and you continue that cycle until the set is gone.
 
Cause when you fall you spread yourself out to try and stay up. Easier said then done, of course, at a wave like teahupoo. But there's plenty of videos of guys coming out after asp contests with scrapes and scratches from reefs and rocks. But places like that and jaws or pipeline, I guess you just hope you don't die.

I hit the bottom like twice surfing winter barrels, but it's nicer when it's sand and you're in a 5mm suit. One day I was out, two people had to have ambulances called because they hurt their backs/necks hitting he bottom. But I still wonder how we don't hit the bottom every time, especially if you get pitched off the top and fall right off the face, or get sucked up and over with the barreling water. Staying spread out seems to work for me, anyway. Plus I'm rather buoyant in a 5mm suit.

Look up la graviere/hossegor. That wave breaks into a puddle of water pretty much, hence the name.
 
12943661:rlee said:
I remember seeing that Koa Rothman bail a while back, its just insane. What gets me the most is that the reef is literally 2m below the surface and they are getting absolutely pounded. How they come up unscathed (well not always...) I will never know.
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I actually dont understand how dudes dont just get crushed on the reef every single time at teahupoo.
 
Oh my god. That last video was absolutely fucking gnarly. That dude gets whipped like a cartwheel so fucking fast.
 
Honestly they really don't look that bad from someone coming with zero surfing experience. With that said, I understand how insanely bad these are and how dangerous it is, but if you showed two people that didn't know skiing or surfing and showed them those compared to some of the skiing overshoots I'd say most would say ski falls are gnarlier.
 
Yea I saw this earlier. Teahupoo is fucking gnarly, the heaviest wave in the world crashing onto 6 feet of water above a jagged reef.

To the guy above, this is true and pisses me off. I show my friends big wave surfing wipeouts all the time, and they always say that it doesn't look that bad. It makes me so mad that they can't see how fucking close these guys get to dying, but whatever.
 
12943748:DrZoidberg said:
Look up la graviere/hossegor. That wave breaks into a puddle of water pretty much, hence the name.
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I've surfed hossegor and hit the bottom a few times, and it wasn't even properly working! Must be mad when the winter storms hit!
 
The only time I've ever been somewhat worried surfing was when I feel on this 10 ft wave. Cant imagine what a heavy ass wave like teahupoo would be like
 
these are probably the most dangerous known breaks in australia. and shipsterns arguably in the world.

shipsterns breaks into 5-6ft of water, and has one of the gnarliest steps you will ever see.

2:30 for a massive drop, 3:40 for a crazy wipeout


and ours in sydney you cant surf without permission, breaks into 2-3ft of water head on into a cliff. there was a spinal there one day and it was the scariest thing ive ever seen. dude was just limp in the impact zone.

 
I bet Koa Rothman will win. But imagine being that guy paddling up the belharra face hahah, fuck that'd be intense.
 
Go to 1:09 in this video and look at the view the guys atop the wave must have. It's fucking nuts.

Also, these a video of a guy who eats shit

At jaws. And when he falls you see him get picked up by the wave and go over the falls again, except his head is out of the water so he can breath and see the beach n shit. Those moments must suck, knowing you're going deep.
 
12945563:pow_pow~ said:
these are probably the most dangerous known breaks in australia. and shipsterns arguably in the world.

shipsterns breaks into 5-6ft of water, and has one of the gnarliest steps you will ever see.

2:30 for a massive drop, 3:40 for a crazy wipeout


and ours in sydney you cant surf without permission, breaks into 2-3ft of water head on into a cliff. there was a spinal there one day and it was the scariest thing ive ever seen. dude was just limp in the impact zone.

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Who's permission?
 
12945584:MNS said:
Who's permission?
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bra boys. local surf gang kinda thing. its hard to explain

this is what it was like when they first surfed it. almost 5/6 years on so im not really sure what the go is now. i havent ventured down that way for a while.


 
the wedge in newport is a gnarly shorey, has some hilarious falls and is prone to some serious drop ins. people get burnt HARD



if you want a monster wave def check the shipsterns links above
 
12945586:pow_pow~ said:
bra boys. local surf gang kinda thing. its hard to explain

this is what it was like when they first surfed it. almost 5/6 years on so im not really sure what the go is now. i havent ventured down that way for a while.

Have you ever had any first hand experience with teh bra boys? I was reading quite a bit about them one day and was wondering if they are actually as big of assholes as everyone makes them out to be?
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on 10+ days the wedge gets fucking scary, but imo the best wedge days is when it's about 6-7. still kinda scary but sooo much fun. there are sketchier spots that wedge in laguna though. the only way you can get fucked at the wedge is if you get tossed over, in laguna though you get thrown into the rocks
 
12945655:Link. said:
12945586:pow_pow~ said:
bra boys. local surf gang kinda thing. its hard to explain

this is what it was like when they first surfed it. almost 5/6 years on so im not really sure what the go is now. i havent ventured down that way for a while.

Have you ever had any first hand experience with teh bra boys? I was reading quite a bit about them one day and was wondering if they are actually as big of assholes as everyone makes them out to be?
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im only 19 now and they were at their height between like 02-07 i think. so a bit before my time. i live on the north side of the bridge so about 40 mins away so i never surf there just because its a trek.

ive never had first hand experience with them but i think they were legit dudes. they had respect for you if you were on their good side. but then if they have a problem with you they are cunts. if you lived in that area you would feel safer with them around because they looked after their own, and wouldnt expect anything back, like an american gang.

the media reported them as being a gang and shit and starting racial riots. couldnt be further from the truth. they simply had massive beef with a group of people from out west, who, as the majority of people that live out there back then, were scummy lebs.

if you go to maroubra now it has been cleaned up a lot and is actually a very safe and middle to upperclass area.

watch the doco i posted if you have time, thats a good insight
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Idk if anyone watched the mavericks invitational this year but there were some gnarly bails there. That wave was firing on all cylinders for the comp and some people took some beatings. Also that wave holds surfers down for a long fucking time sometimes.

There was a sick go pro video from someones board when a couple people got caught out of position when a big set came through and they got sucked over the falls.

I went out in some overhead waves one time and even that thrashed me pretty good. I'm not the best surfer in anyway just saying that I can't imagine a whipeout multiplied to that scale.
 
Kothman's fall on Teahupoo was super gnarly, any big wave and your fall is guaranteed to be rough. Especially in Hawaii, where coral and sharp rock is mere feet below the surface.
 
12945603:ayylmao said:
the wedge in newport is a gnarly shorey, has some hilarious falls and is prone to some serious drop ins. people get burnt HARD
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And even the people on the jetty aren't safe. A few people got dusted when I was out there april ish 06 or 7 maybe? I think one of the bodies was still MIA when I went back to NY.

Maybe I'll microwave my testicles and get shitfaced enough to get weird on that wave when it's going off.
 
12945586:pow_pow~ said:
bra boys. local surf gang kinda thing. its hard to explain

this is what it was like when they first surfed it. almost 5/6 years on so im not really sure what the go is now. i havent ventured down that way for a while.


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Haha fuck, those guys are tools if they really think they can stake claim to a place like that.
 
12947071:MNS said:
Haha fuck, those guys are tools if they really think they can stake claim to a place like that.
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they can and they did. in the first few years you would ask out of respect. as i said, its probably different now. but its the same with candide at chads gap.
 
12947111:pow_pow~ said:
they can and they did. in the first few years you would ask out of respect. as i said, its probably different now. but its the same with candide at chads gap.
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I would be respectful of locals and their history with their beaches. I would definitely be courteous and and what not. But straight up permission is a little intense. Although, who would say no to a respectful other just wanting to surf.
 
12946989:Compass said:
Kothman's fall on Teahupoo was super gnarly, any big wave and your fall is guaranteed to be rough. Especially in Hawaii, where coral and sharp rock is mere feet below the surface.
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Not just Hawaii man, everywhere there are shallow fucking breaks just waiting to work you. ON surfer a few weeks back they posted a video of a pretty mellow looking slab at first, and then at about 40 seconds in the angle is looking down towards shore as the filmer rolled over the wave and you can see that the wave is literally breaking on an exposed rock shelf. I think that was in Ireland if I remember correctly.

12947138:MNS said:
I would be respectful of locals and their history with their beaches. I would definitely be courteous and and what not. But straight up permission is a little intense. Although, who would say no to a respectful other just wanting to surf.
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Localism is my biggest issue with surfing, well at least when it reaches a certain point. Having respect for the locals when you're at a new wave is obviously important, but when people start yelling at you to get out the break and start breaking your stuff (it happens), that's too far. It's cocky and ridiculous to claim a section of the ocean; no one owns the ocean.
 
Localism is bullshit. It's for old dudes on longboards who are upset that I can out paddle them on my 5'4", people who need an excuse to stake their claim to a wave and noobs. I've surfed with people who drop in on me, then later tell me to watch where I'm going like they know their shit. I generally don't care and don't get involved, but this makes me angry. If people want respect solely because of their position or status, they're certainly not getting it from me. Not being an asshole and surfing well will get you respect.

PS I think longboarding is cool. And now I really wanna surf.
 
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