Beginner to photography and shooting video

Z

-Zimbo-

Member
Hi guys, so im a beginner to the whole photography and video shooting scene. I took a photography course in highschool before which taught me the basic composition and settings on a dslr. I know how to take photos in complete manual mode. My question is when you guys take skiing photos do you have your camera set up in fully manual or do you use automatic settings? I find it a lot quicker to just flip it into automatic mode but then again I know you have more control over the camera in manual. If you guys have any tips on how I should start shooting in manual mode or if there is a point in manual at all that would be great. I am using the Nikon D5100.

Also for shooting video do you guys usually shoot on manual or automatic? any camera settings and tips for getting started would be great. Im looking for the best quality pictures and video. Sorry if I sound like a complete beginner.. Im just trying to get started lol.
 
You will get much better results with full manual. The camera doesn't know what pi are trying to shoot. If it is sports you need a high shutter speed to make the motion crisp and the when the camera is on auto it just balances the ISO, shutter speed and aperture. So it can create bad motion blur and things
 
13280056:Rdwagner2 said:
You will get much better results with full manual. The camera doesn't know what pi are trying to shoot. If it is sports you need a high shutter speed to make the motion crisp and the when the camera is on auto it just balances the ISO, shutter speed and aperture. So it can create bad motion blur and things
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ok thank you for your reply. i have the nikon D5100. is this a good camera to start with for shooting video? i can always sell it and get a new body but is this good enough for now?
 
Until you learn the rock bottom basics (shutter speed, aperture, iso, nd filters, framerate, white balance) you will be fine with just about any camera.. You know on the d5100 there are partially manual modes like shutter and aperture priority so you can control on setting and everything else the camera handles.

Put active d lighting, white balance, and iso at auto.

Put metering at matrix to make the whole picture properly exposed

center weighted to make only the center properly exposed

spot to make on the point you focus to exposed and nothing else

Figure out the autofocus modes, they are simple and easily figured out.

Read around more on what shutter speed and aperture are, until you have a good understanding you should shoot/film in one of the auto or semi auto modes and figure it out yourself.
 
okay thanks for the feedback.. my main issue now is deciding whether to get a new camera or not.. i want the gopro4 black because of portability but also want a fully manual camera to get more creative and have more control. I also dont want to stick with my d5100 because i want to buy a lens that will fit the camera i will be using for the next bit. so any recommendations or suggestions are welcome. Im open to anything. thanks for the help guys! looking forward to this.
 
Theres a Canon t3i with a few lenses and things for sale on here for like 550. That's a great beginner camera and comes with everything you need to start and go filming. I use the t3i as well.
 
13291870:CameraWiz said:
Theres a Canon t3i with a few lenses and things for sale on here for like 550. That's a great beginner camera and comes with everything you need to start and go filming. I use the t3i as well.
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i live in canada though :( hes only shipping to USA
 
I'd be open to shipping it if you pay for the shipping and a little extra for the hassle of having to do it.
 
Im curious to know why you want to get rid of the nikon?

unless you have a bunch of canon accesories (lenses etc) why do you want to swap over? From what it sounds like your expierince level is I would say that camera will work just fine

unless you are really caught up on the fact that it doesnt do 60 fps?

and always shoot video automatic. there is nothing more annoying than the camera changing settings in the middle of a shot
 
13292238:DorianF said:
Im curious to know why you want to get rid of the nikon?

unless you have a bunch of canon accesories (lenses etc) why do you want to swap over? From what it sounds like your expierince level is I would say that camera will work just fine

unless you are really caught up on the fact that it doesnt do 60 fps?

and always shoot video automatic. there is nothing more annoying than the camera changing settings in the middle of a shot
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shoot video automatic cause i you want settings to change in the middle of a shot? shouldnt i shoot manual if i want the setting to stay the same?

also im thinking to switch to the t5i and i dont want to get a nikon wide angle lens if im going to be making the switch now or later... it seems like a waste of money.. and i feel if i was to upgrade past the t5i i would go with a cannon as-well so thats my story.
 
13292294:-Zimbo- said:
shoot video automatic cause i you want settings to change in the middle of a shot? shouldnt i shoot manual if i want the setting to stay the same?

also im thinking to switch to the t5i and i dont want to get a nikon wide angle lens if im going to be making the switch now or later... it seems like a waste of money.. and i feel if i was to upgrade past the t5i i would go with a cannon as-well so thats my story.
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Oops typo

ya NEVER shoot automatic
 
You don't need to switch cameras until the camera you are using:

1. is holding you back from actually growing as a photographer or videographer, which will essentially be never.

2. Does not have the features that you need to produce a professional product for paying clients, which will be a while from now, assuming you decide to ever actually do that, and have the skills to do it well. Which I wouldn't suggest unless you are really really passionate about it (it's not worth it otherwise)

So, no, don't get a new camera. In fact, if you want to become a better photographer, I would buy a film camera with a 50mm lens and a notebook, and try to learn how to use that proficiently. Take notes on every photo so that when you get them processed, you will remember what you are doing right or wrong. The instant response that you get and the lack of financial investment after the initial purchase of a digital camera and lens allows for people to end up just polishing shit (changing settings just to get them right in response to the image on the LCD screen) without thinking about what they are actually doing to create an image that is worth creating in the first place.

Hope that helps man!
 
13292472:TWoods said:
You don't need to switch cameras until the camera you are using:

1. is holding you back from actually growing as a photographer or videographer, which will essentially be never.

2. Does not have the features that you need to produce a professional product for paying clients, which will be a while from now, assuming you decide to ever actually do that, and have the skills to do it well. Which I wouldn't suggest unless you are really really passionate about it (it's not worth it otherwise)

So, no, don't get a new camera. In fact, if you want to become a better photographer, I would buy a film camera with a 50mm lens and a notebook, and try to learn how to use that proficiently. Take notes on every photo so that when you get them processed, you will remember what you are doing right or wrong. The instant response that you get and the lack of financial investment after the initial purchase of a digital camera and lens allows for people to end up just polishing shit (changing settings just to get them right in response to the image on the LCD screen) without thinking about what they are actually doing to create an image that is worth creating in the first place.

Hope that helps man!
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thanks for the reply! the only thing that is making me want to buy a new camera is because mine cant do full manual mode.. i really want something that i can fully control and create the shots that i want 100%. other than that i would probably stick with it. im not really into the whole film thing because i feel its a hassle to get things developed and would rather have it digital. thats why im thinking of selling my d5100 and getting a t3i or something
 
13292526:-Zimbo- said:
thanks for the reply! the only thing that is making me want to buy a new camera is because mine cant do full manual mode.. i really want something that i can fully control and create the shots that i want 100%. other than that i would probably stick with it. im not really into the whole film thing because i feel its a hassle to get things developed and would rather have it digital. thats why im thinking of selling my d5100 and getting a t3i or something
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Google nikon hacker and you can download a hack that enables full manual mode and also higher bitrate recording. You'll be golden then. The 5100 is a real nice camera once you get around it's niggles.
 
13292980:BlackcountryBill said:
Google nikon hacker and you can download a hack that enables full manual mode and also higher bitrate recording. You'll be golden then. The 5100 is a real nice camera once you get around it's niggles.
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no way dude this is awesome!! im still trying to sell my d5100 locally for 400 and if i do i will pick up the t5i for 500.. but if i dont then i dont really mind anymore !
 
13293059:CameraWiz said:
t5i is a ripoff.
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not rlly... i can get it for 500 brand new with a 18-55mm lense at a local store... most t4i and t3i are priced around the same and there used. there a little cheaper but this is a brand new camera..
 
13293118:-Zimbo- said:
not rlly... i can get it for 500 brand new with a 18-55mm lense at a local store... most t4i and t3i are priced around the same and there used. there a little cheaper but this is a brand new camera..
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The T5i sensor is the exact same as the T3i, has less video formats than the T3i, but does feature an autofocus for video which could come in handy if you're a true beginner at shooting. The T5i has higher light sensitivity but chances are you're never going to be shooting skiing dark enough for that to matter. The T5i also can continuous shoot 5fps vs the T3i's 3.7. Other than that they're essentially the same camera.
 
13293139:Ghoster said:
The T5i sensor is the exact same as the T3i, has less video formats than the T3i, but does feature an autofocus for video which could come in handy if you're a true beginner at shooting. The T5i has higher light sensitivity but chances are you're never going to be shooting skiing dark enough for that to matter. The T5i also can continuous shoot 5fps vs the T3i's 3.7. Other than that they're essentially the same camera.
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There is also a touch screen. Not a must have feature in and of itself, but if its only a slightly more expensive upgrade totally worth it in my opinion.

also he is in canada. the difference between the canadian dollar and the american dollar is pretty substantial currently. that difference makes buying something in the states really not worth it currently. after he pays the shipping, currency conversion, and customs he may as well buy a new camera. it will cost him roughly the same
 
can someone plz explain why you would want a small aperture fixed lens for filming follow shots? doesn't that mean shallow depth of field and the backgreound will be out of focus?
 
13296153:-Zimbo- said:
can someone plz explain why you would want a small aperture fixed lens for filming follow shots? doesn't that mean shallow depth of field and the backgreound will be out of focus?
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by fixed do you mean prime?

you dont neccesarily need prime lenses to film follow cams (in fact i would say the vast majority of people dont use them for that purpose). a prime lens is a lens that has a fixed focal length (example 50mm)you cannot zoom with it

there are a few advantages to primes though:

- because it cant zoom there is less glass, which typically means a lighter lens, less expensive, and typically sharper as well

- when upgrading to full frame (if that is ever an option for you) a lot of wide angle lenses (ex tokina 11-16 f2.8) will not work on a full frame camera. primes typically dont have the compatibility problems and are generally usable when you upgrade (im pretty sure they all are, but said generally in case some of the 8mm fisheyes etc weren't)

- primes areavailable in lower f stops than zooms. this makes them ideal to shoot low light stuff with (urban at night, night park laps etc)

Typically the lower f stop does mean that there is a shallower depth of field. but just becuse a lens is labled as a f1.4 does not mean that it can only be used in f1.4. you can use other f stops you just cant zoom it.

with all of that being said i would probably go with wide angle zoom like the tokina 11-16 f2.8 or 12-24 f4 for follow cams over a prime (unless you can get ahold of some cheap L glass, but thats another story)
 
13296723:DorianF said:
by fixed do you mean prime?

you dont neccesarily need prime lenses to film follow cams (in fact i would say the vast majority of people dont use them for that purpose). a prime lens is a lens that has a fixed focal length (example 50mm)you cannot zoom with it

there are a few advantages to primes though:

- because it cant zoom there is less glass, which typically means a lighter lens, less expensive, and typically sharper as well

- when upgrading to full frame (if that is ever an option for you) a lot of wide angle lenses (ex tokina 11-16 f2.8) will not work on a full frame camera. primes typically dont have the compatibility problems and are generally usable when you upgrade (im pretty sure they all are, but said generally in case some of the 8mm fisheyes etc weren't)

- primes areavailable in lower f stops than zooms. this makes them ideal to shoot low light stuff with (urban at night, night park laps etc)

Typically the lower f stop does mean that there is a shallower depth of field. but just becuse a lens is labled as a f1.4 does not mean that it can only be used in f1.4. you can use other f stops you just cant zoom it.

with all of that being said i would probably go with wide angle zoom like the tokina 11-16 f2.8 or 12-24 f4 for follow cams over a prime (unless you can get ahold of some cheap L glass, but thats another story)
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so if the lens says f1.8 on it it doesnt mean its fixed to that aperture? so i can increase the aperture? im confused about that part and why people buy lenses with small apertures.
 
13297386:-Zimbo- said:
so if the lens says f1.8 on it it doesnt mean its fixed to that aperture? so i can increase the aperture? im confused about that part and why people buy lenses with small apertures.
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uh.......not normally it's not fixed...... your kit lens says 3.5-6 and it doesnt only stay in that range... it goes to like f/22. Read up on photography sites and shit if you haven't learned stuff like that yet.

Smaller aperture=more bokeh and less depth of field/ more light, that's why people buy them and that's why the lower you go the more expensive it is usually.
 
13297406:nutz. said:
uh.......not normally it's not fixed...... your kit lens says 3.5-6 and it doesnt only stay in that range... it goes to like f/22. Read up on photography sites and shit if you haven't learned stuff like that yet.

Smaller aperture=more bokeh and less depth of field/ more light, that's why people buy them and that's why the lower you go the more expensive it is usually.
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also no offense man, but you shouldn't be upgrading to anything if you haven't learned the basics yet. your other thread that says you want a fixed aperture lens for follow cams and cinematography, I'm not quite sure you know what that means lol.... do you mean instead fixed focal length? or do you mean a zoom with constant aperture.... .
 
13297411:nutz. said:
also no offense man, but you shouldn't be upgrading to anything if you haven't learned the basics yet. your other thread that says you want a fixed aperture lens for follow cams and cinematography, I'm not quite sure you know what that means lol.... do you mean instead fixed focal length? or do you mean a zoom with constant aperture.... .
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i know im not experienced thats why im trying to learn lol.. no purchase will be made unitll i know i need it. i meant constant aperture
 
13297440:-Zimbo- said:
i know im not experienced thats why im trying to learn lol.. no purchase will be made unitll i know i need it. i meant constant aperture
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zoom? or did you mean you want a prime lens (a 50mm f/1.8 is a prime lens). constant aperture means across the zoom range so it doesn't apply to prime lenses (for ex a 24-70 f/2.8 is a zoom with a constant aperture, but a 24-70 f/2.8-4 is not)
 
13297476:nutz. said:
zoom? or did you mean you want a prime lens (a 50mm f/1.8 is a prime lens). constant aperture means across the zoom range so it doesn't apply to prime lenses (for ex a 24-70 f/2.8 is a zoom with a constant aperture, but a 24-70 f/2.8-4 is not)
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ya im wondering about the constant aperture. like wat are the benefits of having a constant aperture. and why do people go with the constant aperture to film skiing.
 
13297890:-Zimbo- said:
ya im wondering about the constant aperture. like wat are the benefits of having a constant aperture. and why do people go with the constant aperture to film skiing.
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a constant aperature just means that it has the ability to use its lowest f stop through the whole range of the zoom.

for example: canon 70-200 f4

the lens is able to utilize the lowest aperature of f4 throughout the entire zoom range. it can use f4 at 70mm and f4 at 200mm

this is much different than say a canon kit lens 18-55 F3.5-5.6

on this kit lens it has f3.5-5.6, what this means is that you cannot use its lowest f stop (3.5) throughout the whole zoom range. you are able to utilize it at say 18mm, but not at 55mm. if you zoom the lens to 55mm the lowest f stop that you can take advantage of is f5.6, The f stop is variable depending on the focal length you are trying to shoot at

hopefully this makes sense.

now pros and cons and why you would use it:

personally, I dont specifically choose lenses that can hold a constant aperature across the entire range, its more of a byproduct of what i actually want. i choose glass based on sharpness and image quality, as well as its low light ability. I find that lenses that have that constant aperature are also very sharp - i want that image quality, the fixed aperature is just a perk. typically (not always) having that variable f stop means cheaper glass that is softer and produces poorer image quality.

BUT just because a lens is not constant does not mean that it is not good glass. the canon 100-400 f4.5-5.6 is very nice glass (being L glass), even without the ability to keep its lowest aperature of 4.5 throughout the whole zoom range.

_______________________________

If I were you i would practice with your kit lens and try to understand the basics before i invested in anything else. you need to reach a plataeu on your current equipment (a place where you feel that it is inhibbiting you from taking that "next step") before you invest in new gear. Learn how to produce a decent image with what you have - then worry about better glass

having nice equipment does not make you a good videographer - Knowing how to use it properly does
 
13300233:DorianF said:
a constant aperature just means that it has the ability to use its lowest f stop through the whole range of the zoom.

for example: canon 70-200 f4

the lens is able to utilize the lowest aperature of f4 throughout the entire zoom range. it can use f4 at 70mm and f4 at 200mm

this is much different than say a canon kit lens 18-55 F3.5-5.6

on this kit lens it has f3.5-5.6, what this means is that you cannot use its lowest f stop (3.5) throughout the whole zoom range. you are able to utilize it at say 18mm, but not at 55mm. if you zoom the lens to 55mm the lowest f stop that you can take advantage of is f5.6, The f stop is variable depending on the focal length you are trying to shoot at

hopefully this makes sense.

now pros and cons and why you would use it:

personally, I dont specifically choose lenses that can hold a constant aperature across the entire range, its more of a byproduct of what i actually want. i choose glass based on sharpness and image quality, as well as its low light ability. I find that lenses that have that constant aperature are also very sharp - i want that image quality, the fixed aperature is just a perk. typically (not always) having that variable f stop means cheaper glass that is softer and produces poorer image quality.

BUT just because a lens is not constant does not mean that it is not good glass. the canon 100-400 f4.5-5.6 is very nice glass (being L glass), even without the ability to keep its lowest aperature of 4.5 throughout the whole zoom range.

_______________________________

If I were you i would practice with your kit lens and try to understand the basics before i invested in anything else. you need to reach a plataeu on your current equipment (a place where you feel that it is inhibbiting you from taking that "next step") before you invest in new gear. Learn how to produce a decent image with what you have - then worry about better glass

having nice equipment does not make you a good videographer - Knowing how to use it properly does
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so what ur saying is that even the lens is labelled f1.8, you can increase the aperture on it? like if u wanted to or are u stuck with this fixed aperture.. also why are lenses with small apertures such as 1.8 popular for follow cams? wouldnt u want a lens that has a bigger aperture to get everything in focus with deep feild of view.
 
13300840:-Zimbo- said:
so what ur saying is that even the lens is labelled f1.8, you can increase the aperture on it? like if u wanted to or are u stuck with this fixed aperture.. also why are lenses with small apertures such as 1.8 popular for follow cams? wouldnt u want a lens that has a bigger aperture to get everything in focus with deep feild of view.
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yes of course... if a lens is labeled 3.5-5.6, it can also go past 5.6.

In all honesty, I'd recommend reading a book about dslr's or two to learn this stuff.... it's pretty basic stuff you should've learned in class. 1.8 will let more light in than 2.8 etc., and like you said, just cause you have a lens that's f/1.8 doesn't mean you have to shoot at 1.8, you might shoot at 2.8 or something where it's sharper (depends on the lens)
 
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