Pataguccimane
Member
13895880:snowpocalypse said:
Chiiillllll
Remember, they still have to ship out bindings via the order que. Its not like they (or the postal service) have the infrastructure to put 3000 bindings out per day.
The CAST Pivot Freetour Thread
- Thread starter .lencon
- Start date
Chiiillllll
Remember, they still have to ship out bindings via the order que. Its not like they (or the postal service) have the infrastructure to put 3000 bindings out per day.
TheWeaz
Member
13895880:snowpocalypse said:
How are you an orange name? You’re supposed to be a good influence and make the site better not spread vicious hate.
And anyway, you got a shipping notification on Sunday and last i checked fedex, ups and usps aren’t open on sundays. Everything got put in the mail on monday and Tuesday as they got boxed up, they’re shipping in the order they were ordered and obviously ones close to jackson are getting them first. Also its not casts fault that the post office hasn’t moved your bindings yet, it out of their control once its dropped off to ship.
snowpocalypse
Active member
I have an orange because I have worked hard to get where I am. Has nothing to do with loving everybody. I can be upset if I payed for something and have'nt received it yet. Not too sure why I have to be stoke when that does't happen. I'm not using my position or "influence" to ask for anything special, just the correct info on when my stuff will finally get to me as a consumer.
.lencon
Active member
Took a bit longer than expected, but I’m stoked. Came in yesterday, gonna go try them out tomorrow.
You have to mount the toes just right, if the screws are too tight it’s pain to swap toes, but if it’s too loose it won’t hold. My advice is to mount the shim, but keep it slightly loose, then put in the toe pieces and then tighten it down. Swap em out a few times each to find that money spot.
Thanks CAST!
.lencon
Active member
13897148:Jimmiski said:
Used em today! Transitions were good, no icing really, but I could see how they could ice up a bit in certain snow conditions. The bails and break lock worked great.
I just need to buy my own skis, borrowed an old pair cause I didn't have any. They were too thin and glue was going out, made for a struggling quick hike, but got some good turns in.
Stoked for good fitting, new skins so I can actually grip.
13897223:Rum_Ham said:
Yep favorite ski ever... 2012 level 1 colabs that I broke in december, like new 2011s I just got and mounted w CAST, and 190cm 2017s that were my everyday ski til this week
This line is 10 mins from JHMR gate 2 but was untouched today 5 days after the last storm. Hundreds of people hike right past it cuz dropping this way requires skinning out. You can see peeps in the second photo hiking the ridgeline. This setup is opening up so many possibilities that would otherwise be difficult options to ski
DA_MTN_COSBY09
New member
Can I mount other look pivot model bindings or marker royal family bindings on the new cast system or is it just look pivot 18s.
NigelStein
Member
Only Pivot 18s on the new system.
Cheech_Sander
Member
I got mine finally! testing this weekend will report...
TheWeaz
Member
That shouldn’t be an issue with the shoulder bolts mounted to the ski, you should be able to get the tech toe back far enough, the tight fit acts as the locking mechanism when the tech toe is clicked into so it physically can’t come off.
Some of the tech toes were pretty tight but they were each hand tested by multiple people to make sure they would work.
Some of the tech toes were pretty tight but they were each hand tested by multiple people to make sure they would work.
.lencon
Active member
13896851:.lencon said:
13899713:gowgo said:
What I said above ^^^^
you have to have them mounted to be able to play around with them, but yeah, mount the shim, keeping the screws/shoulder bolts a little loose. Then tighten them to find the money spot where you are able to swap the toes, but so they are still solid. If I had the screws tightened all the way down, they wouldn’t swap easily, so they are ever so slightly loosened up a bit.
.lencon
Active member
13899984:gowgo said:
I understand that you are having problems, but I can’t really see anything out of the ordinary going on there.
You have to have the toe peice open in the first place to put it on, like the instructions say.
So you have the toe peice open when you put it on, but when you go to close it, it can’t close. I understand that’s your problem, but I’m just not seeing what is causing that problem, and it shouldn’t be an issue in the first place with their testing. How are you trying to lock in the toe peice?
**This post was edited on Mar 1st 2018 at 9:14:40pm
Sorry guys.
I did it.
I needed more pushy.
It was tight beyond my imagination.
It was made metal scraps....
>.lencon
Thank you for your care.
In order to lock the toes, stepping with the toes was not enough and it was necessary to pull the lever strongly.
This was beyond my imagination.
I did it.
I needed more pushy.
It was tight beyond my imagination.
It was made metal scraps....
>.lencon
Thank you for your care.
In order to lock the toes, stepping with the toes was not enough and it was necessary to pull the lever strongly.
This was beyond my imagination.
TCSKIER66
Member
CAST fam.. Looks like we have all had this minor issue of the tech toe not seating "perfectly" at first as it had me pretty bummed out my second our third time using them.. But as I have started using them more, the tech toe has started going on way better! here is my set up... This setup is legit, I have wanted to throw a tech setup on these planks for awhile now, but coming from a ski shop background, there is no way I would huck a thing in a binding with 2 little tiny pins holding my toe onto the ski coming down. This product might have a little weight disadvantage, but the performance and RELIABILITY is what really matters at the end of the day.
When silas mounted mine he tested both the alpine and tech toes, taking them on and off multiple times to get the right fit. For the tech toes he’d attach them, lock, unlock, remove em, reattach, lock, unlock, and remove. Based on your comments I guess theres a tightness sweet spot he was finding w the pins.
I’ve had no issue even in cold snowy icey conditions. Much easier than the former system
I’ve had no issue even in cold snowy icey conditions. Much easier than the former system
NigelStein
Member
I'm 125 and ride a Pivot 18. Just set the DIN at an 8-9. Havent read any conclusive research that being at the bottom of the DIN range is dangerous. People say it is but mine have always passed a bench test so...
TheWeaz
Member
If you can find an old set of 15s they have a low end of 6 and can be used with the cast conversion.
that said I weigh about as much as you and run my toes on 9 and heels on 10 and haven’t had any issues. Lars and silas confirmed that the whole din range is usable when I was there asking them questions.
that said I weigh about as much as you and run my toes on 9 and heels on 10 and haven’t had any issues. Lars and silas confirmed that the whole din range is usable when I was there asking them questions.
NigelStein
Member
Theyre the same thing
Hi,
Here are my experiences with CAST Freetour bindings sofar:
https://mcfrisk.kapsi.fi/skiing/posts/CAST_Freetour_touring_binding_review.html
Only bigger thing is the broken AFD plate.
Hoping to test some spring park kickers and rails with them this weekend...
**This post was edited on Apr 20th 2018 at 7:08:10pm
Here are my experiences with CAST Freetour bindings sofar:
https://mcfrisk.kapsi.fi/skiing/posts/CAST_Freetour_touring_binding_review.html
Only bigger thing is the broken AFD plate.
Hoping to test some spring park kickers and rails with them this weekend...
**This post was edited on Apr 20th 2018 at 7:08:10pm
tomPietrowski
Active member
13902017:NigelStein said:
With fks or pivot the issue is more if you use a super low din that the din retention screw will just back out. I have had this with a female pro who used cast but had to run the p18 toe at minimum. She lost the retention screw and spring as they will just back out as there is so little force on them. Although they may work because of the lack of force on the screw they should not really be run that low. Always aim for the middle of the range. Unless you need 10 or 11 plus don't use the p18
NigelStein
Member
13917889:tomPietrowski said:
Yeah I had that start to happen last year. I've started to check my toe pieces every day since, make sure there's no play and DIN is still set properly. If you do your due diligence I figure there's no issue. You know a hell of a lot more than me though, if I'm wrong by all means please let me know.
tomPietrowski
Active member
13917914:.lencon said:
For all bindings. I had it recently on an Sth too. If you have it wound all the way out there is just not much tension there at the very bottom end. The best advice has always been to look for a binding where your din sits right in the middle. So if you ski 8 or 9 for your din your best on a 12-13 binding. If you ride 10 or 11 your prob best on a 14. Only really 12+ should be on a 16 or 18 din binding.
13917711:mcfrisk said:Hi,
Here are my experiences with CAST Freetour bindings sofar:
https://mcfrisk.kapsi.fi/skiing/posts/CAST_Freetour_touring_binding_review.html
Only bigger thing is the broken AFD plate.
Hoping to test some spring park kickers and rails with them this weekend...
**This post was edited on Apr 20th 2018 at 7:08:10pm
My AFDs (the white plate your toes rest on) also detached from the black toe riser thing. Bad glue job. Popped right out when I accidentally dropped a toe piece on hard floor. I redid with gorilla glue on the one that broke off and added a dab on the other three. I’d recommend adding glue before use because I could have lost the plates if I hadn’t noticed. All good now and everything else is holding up at around 40 days on them.
I setup line sfb 108s as my second CAST pair for spring skiing and have been riding timberline laps and skinnin up for exercise (hood backcountry is mostly low angle). Bachelor this weekend then back to hood midweek. I don’t notice the extra weight when skiing at all and doesn’t make much difference skinning up, but I do notice heavyness just when carrying my skis like from the lot and back
13917711:mcfrisk said:Hi,
Here are my experiences with CAST Freetour bindings sofar:
https://mcfrisk.kapsi.fi/skiing/posts/CAST_Freetour_touring_binding_review.html
Only bigger thing is the broken AFD plate.
Hoping to test some spring park kickers and rails with them this weekend...
**This post was edited on Apr 20th 2018 at 7:08:10pm
Excellent review I plan to ride cast freetour next season, but a recent knee injury forces me to lose 10 to 8 din. Have you continued using 8 din? You have not had problems with this minimum configuration of 8 din? Do you have any recommendations for me? Greetings from Spain
https://es-es.facebook.com/roberto.bierhaus
**This post was edited on Jun 3rd 2018 at 8:37:08am
13925853:PubsAnkh said:
Thanks. I'm still riding dins around 8 or so. Have been skiing on race track and carving as fast as I dare on the black glacier slopes in Sölden with them so they seem really reliable. My old Guardians with toe piece wiggle would have ejected at those speeds. But I have self-made boot mods which are non-standard so this could be affecting the ejection, AFD sliding and boot pressure against the bindings. Received the updated WTR AFDs from CAST week ago and will use some superglue to make sure they stay in place as was suggested in the update email from CAST.
13926173:mcfrisk said:
Yes, I saw Solden, we may ski like that, that's why I ask you. I have my p18, without Cast, mounted and I have been playing with them. I have discovered that 1 mm difference in height makes a big difference in how the toe works. Lange Xt with alpine sole works much better than my Tecnica Cochise 130 dyn, also with alpine sole. Although it should work the same, it is not like that. With Lange xt the toe becomes much better and faster at the center. I advise you to look at your boots, 1 mm is very noticeable in my case. I'm looking forward to your next adventures with Cast. I hope you understand my English.
https://es-es.facebook.com/roberto.bierhaus
**This post was edited on Jun 3rd 2018 at 8:36:12am
SpiessMaster
New member
13940686:H0llyw00d said:
Ditto. Also interested to hear about general performance. CAST vs regular pivot 18. What about uphill performance? Any icing issues? Anyone drop a toepiece at the top of the hike? I know you should be in the middle of the range of your binding DIN but does anyone have more input on running 18's at a low din? I'm an 8 or 9 by the chart, but really the pivot 18s are without a doubt the best designed binding on the market aside from the high range.
TheWeaz
Member
13964486:SpiessMaster said:
Downhill performance is exactly the same as a regular p18, I can’t tell the difference when switching between my cast p18s and my regular p15s which are the same design but lower din and much older.
Uphill performance is pretty dialed as well, especially with the updated tech toes, the first version I have have pretty tight tolerance on one of the interfaces that causes some annoyance that should be fixed on the newer purple toes.
As for running them at a low din, that shouldn’t be an issue as long as your bindings are relatively new. As all bindings age they test higher than they should, mostly from grit getting into the moving parts and the grease getting washed away. For example my p15s test at an 8 din in the toe when set to 6.5, while my newer p18s test at 8 when set to 8.
14233579:cheener12 said:
I've got two sets of skis right now, both with cast, a well-reputable shop completely mounted one pair and the other was mounted by yours truly... the brake retainer on the pair I did has been super stiff/tight, to the point where its hard to unlock. The set from the shop has been flawless so I think it really comes down to the quality of mount and use of the supplied template from cast. For your case of it being too loose and popping out I'd recommend maybe tightening the two torx screws on the side of the brake retainer to see if that helps or maybe seek out different mounting holes which would be a pain. It would be nice to see cast design the brake retainer to be able to slide on the two vertical mounting screws so that you'd be able to adjust the fore/aft position of the whole unit. I tightened up those torx screws when the retainer loosened up and was flopping underneath my boot while in alpine mode, so maybe that trick could help you in your case. Cheers!
TheWeaz
Member
You can also try loosening the two screws holding the brake holder onto the ski, just loosen them slightly, then engage the holder and tighten the screws again. I’ve had good luck doing that, sometimes the sticker used to drill those holes doesn’t perfectly align everything which cause the brake holder to come un done.
cheener12
Active member
14233613:parkeroverby said:
my guy!! tightened them and they seem to be holding!! the idea to have the brake retainer be able to slide is genius too. Thank you sir, all the karmic blessings to you. after some unrelated pivot issues and messed up mounts I was about ready to throw the whole setup into the trash, so thanks for saving me!
