you'll get a season's worth of powder if you hit it on the snow. I just got back. We totally missed on the snow. But even considering that, I still think it was one of the most amazing ski trips I've ever done! Which is saying something, because our guide, John Falkiner whose been guiding there since the early 90s, said this was the worst conditions he's ever had over there. Thus, just to be safe, go in February or March where you'll have more luck with snow.
While we were there too, the Indian PM announced on the 5th that he was going to start pulling Indian troops out of Kashmir, then on the 6th, Pakistani terrorists bomb up a hotel in Srinagar (the city you fly into to get to Gulmarg). Then when we're leaving last week we still start to see the first wave of Indian troops leaving the area. People in India weren't even that sketched about going to an area recently bombed, to them it is still fine and beautiful... which it is. It's really quite a neat experience to be skiing five miles from the Pakistan/Indian line of control and see Indian army camps scattered all over the high mountain ridges.
