As much as the ski industry wants you to believe that bindings all release they same, they absolutely do not. They may have the same DIN which requires the same amount of force to eject, but what most people don't realize is how your binding is made and what it is made out of make a huge difference as well. Metal bindings will hold you in more consistently than a plastic binding at the same din. Most people do not need a 15 or 18 DIN binding, but considering that they are made of mostly metal rather than mostly plastic makes all the difference in the world! If you have had a problem with bindings breaking, odds are you are on some crap binding that is made of plastic. Park skiers need to be on metal bindings. Jesters rather than griffons, the 14-18 range Rossi Tyrolia and Salomon bindings rather than the 12 (If you are full grown, not a kid.) Keep that in mind when you are buying bindings, its worth the extra cash IMO.
As far as forward pressure goes and setting your own din, do not mess with that shit unless you know what you are doing. Seriously, come talk to us in a shop. Shops charge 5 or 10 bucks for this stuff, but we are stoked to help you learn this stuff. I've been in a shop for 5 years, before that I was in there every day all ski season long bugging the shit out of the techs about everything. Yea, they probably got pissed off at a 14 year old kid asking what everything did everywhere in the shop, and asking some really dumb questions, but did it teach me everything i needed to know to be a ski tech that knows enough to do anything i need to in any shop anywhere. It also got me a good job a few years down the road.
As far as setting your own DIN be careful. I was rocking a 13-15 most of the season on my fat skis, ejected a handful of times and no problems at all. I was rocking a 10 (which is my recommended 3+ setting) on my park skis, and tore my acl this past April on those skis. Accidents do happen, even with the correct DIN. My best recommendation for setting your dins higher than recommended would be just a little bit at a time. If you keep popping out at 8, take it into the shop, learn about forward pressure, and crank it to an 8.5. if thats still a problem, go 9. Realize that you still want your ski to come off, so set it accordingly. Finding the DIN that will keep you in when you are in control, but eject you when you are not is what you are looking for. Hopefully this helps some people out, hit me up or anyone else in the thread with shop experience with questions, I know I would be down to help rather than see someone jack their knee or leg or whatever.