Ski detuning pls help

andrewt69

Member
Hey guys i know i made a thread about this a little bit back about how to detune under foot for rails but i want to know how much. I am starting to see a little bit of a curve in the edge. I ran up and down maybe 8 times w the file and then a couple more with a gummy. Am i good to go?

984222.jpeg

**This thread was edited on Dec 10th 2020 at 8:38:19pm
 
Post above me is good

I recently got some Vishnu’s and obviously wanted to detune them and i gotta say that I took the file to it hard. It’s really personalized, but I filed it to the point that you could see three angles instead of two. If you can feel a noticeable difference from where you detune compared to where you don’t, I think ur good.
 
I'll tell you not to round off your edge and give them a "Long Base Bevel" You need a 1 to 1.5 fixed base bevel guide, then you bevel until you have worked into the plastic about 2 mm's. This leaves the edge higher than the base. Then you can still have an edge. Eventually, the under foot area will do its own thing. If you cross your skis in the air a lot, you may round a short section of the edge just in front of the binding. That will help prevent cutting up the sidewall and topsheet.

Then again, to each his own.

topic:andrewt69 said:
Hey guys i know i made a thread about this a little bit back about how to detune under foot for rails but i want to know how much. I am starting to see a little bit of a curve in the edge. I ran up and down maybe 8 times w the file and then a couple more with a gummy. Am i good to go?

View attachment 984222

**This thread was edited on Dec 10th 2020 at 8:38:19pm
 
14210596:DominatorJacques said:
I'll tell you not to round off your edge and give them a "Long Base Bevel" You need a 1 to 1.5 fixed base bevel guide, then you bevel until you have worked into the plastic about 2 mm's. This leaves the edge higher than the base. Then you can still have an edge. Eventually, the under foot area will do its own thing. If you cross your skis in the air a lot, you may round a short section of the edge just in front of the binding. That will help prevent cutting up the sidewall and topsheet.

Then again, to each his own.

I’m so confused i just wanna ski rails and carve i’m not good at this. Will what i did be fine

**This post was edited on Dec 11th 2020 at 2:03:58pm
 
14210596:DominatorJacques said:
I'll tell you not to round off your edge and give them a "Long Base Bevel" You need a 1 to 1.5 fixed base bevel guide, then you bevel until you have worked into the plastic about 2 mm's. This leaves the edge higher than the base. Then you can still have an edge. Eventually, the under foot area will do its own thing. If you cross your skis in the air a lot, you may round a short section of the edge just in front of the binding. That will help prevent cutting up the sidewall and topsheet.

Then again, to each his own.

I bought a bastard file from a ski shop and i have a gummy stone too.
 
14210746:andrewt69 said:
I’m so confused i just wanna ski rails and carve i’m not good at this. Will what i did be fine

**This post was edited on Dec 11th 2020 at 2:03:58pm

Yes. You will be fine. Could you have done a better job? Sure. Watch the vid in the first post to get a good idea
 
14210746:andrewt69 said:
I’m so confused i just wanna ski rails and carve i’m not good at this. Will what i did be fine

**This post was edited on Dec 11th 2020 at 2:03:58pm

Looks like you rounded edges. Just under foot, you will be okay, but I tell you for a good skier, the long base bevel is best.

14210751:andrewt69 said:
I bought a bastard file from a ski shop and i have a gummy stone too.

That's good, but you need a base bevel guide. A good long base bevel with 1 degree is good.

It is also important to smooth the metal base edge where it meets the plastic base edge as well. The inside of the base edge.

If you get into it, you will need at least 200 grit diamond stones.

This video shows a long base bevel right at the start, just look. Then later into it, I talk about smoothing the inside of the base edge.
 
14210864:DominatorJacques said:
Looks like you rounded edges. Just under foot, you will be okay, but I tell you for a good skier, the long base bevel is best.

That's good, but you need a base bevel guide. A good long base bevel with 1 degree is good.

It is also important to smooth the metal base edge where it meets the plastic base edge as well. The inside of the base edge.

If you get into it, you will need at least 200 grit diamond stones.

This video shows a long base bevel right at the start, just look. Then later into it, I talk about smoothing the inside of the base edge.

Yea thanks man. I am really using these skis for all mountain and tiny bit of park when i don’t want to change skis. I just have always bought skis used and have needed to detune at all. I carve hard and just don’t want to ruin my edges on rails if i kept them too sharp.
 
14210946:andrewt69 said:
Yea thanks man. I am really using these skis for all mountain and tiny bit of park when i don’t want to change skis. I just have always bought skis used and have needed to detune at all. I carve hard and just don’t want to ruin my edges on rails if i kept them too sharp.

There is a happy medium. Not the best for a race on ice deal, but it is there.
 
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