Quiver Killer binding inserts

Very interesting. I'm looking at the pictures on your site, and they look like they would work well. I might want to try some out.
 
Bump

Check out the new Skiers page with me(Jake Sporn) and my buddy Dillon Calderone.

these are def. the most affordable way to keep a big quiver and high quality!!
 
I Have these on all my skis i can switch dukes and fks on and off 3 different pairs, and i have just inserts forone pair on my park skis.

i bought them in the group by threw tgr.

i have rode hard on them for a year with no issues. the trickiest part is the installation.

I'm a certified Technician at fresh air expierience in kelowna with over 10 years of expierience.

if you are in bc interior or are willing to make a trip i would be more then happy to help with installation.

i have no regrets/just super stoked these were invented

 
Just heard about these actually from a thread over in SG. Felt the need to bump this thread. I remember looking into threaded inserts for skis 2 years back and there was nothing much offered.

I'll certainly be picking a bunch of these up for my skis. The ability to swap out bindings is a major plus.

Thanks for bringing this to the market!
 
I think I'm gonna pick some up. Right now my quiver consists of 86mm Suspects and 100mm Watchlives. If I had bindings with 105mm brakes, is there any issue with brakes being too wide, or does that even matter? I've just always had the right size brake for each ski and never have thought about it this way before. Hopefully my shop can install something like this.
 
that should be a problem at all, you will only have about an extra half inch of brake space on the 86 waist skis which split between both sides of the skis is a quarter inch space from ski to brake. Quarter inch wont do anything, i dont think it will do much until you get farther than half an inch away from the ski.

for other people i dont think you will have to worry unless you you are switching between a skis that are 40mm in difference or even more because lots of ski brakes are designed to not just lift but tuck themselves away.

 
You won't get a deal on an 18 pack. That's only one pair of skis btw. $60 for a 36 pack is a hell of a lot cheaper than buying another pair of bindings. The inserts get cheaper the more you buy, maybe if you order a gazillion you could get a deal. They aren't cheap, but I don't think they are crazy expensive either.
 
$60 to setup two skis to be able to use one pair of bindings is a hell of a lot cheaper than a new pair of bindings!
 
Hmm. This is an idea that has been floating around every skier's mind for a while for sure. The ability to rotate one set of bindings amongst many pairs of skis is a good one. It'd be good for demoing bindings and skis as well.

The problem, however, is that skis vibrate while being used. A lot. Enough that they can loosen their own DIN's. That's a lot of vibration. I really don't want to have to worry about my bindings vibrating off. The idea of using Lock-Tite is a good one but the fact that the owner of the company is recommending using it to reinforce his product worries me.

I would be more prone to invest in a set of these inserts if Quiver Killer included a tool that can be used to tighten up the screws of my bindings on the mountain. This tool might not even technically be necessary but it would be quite assuring to be able to give all of my binding screws a little torque whenever I'm feeling unsure about the inserts. That being said, the tool would have to be designed to fit comfortably on the skier's person while still being able to create a lot of torque.

Just my 2¢
 
These inserts are no different then snowboard binding systems, which have proven to be reliable. Plus, the bindings can be snugged using a screwdriver (posi preferably, but a philips will work too) that are available at ski area tool benches at pretty much every ski area I've ever been to.

As for the Loctite comment; does it concern you that every shop uses glue in the ski mounting process, or that mechanics use Loctite in automotive repair situations all day long on parts that see far greater vibration and stress forces on a daily basis than skis ever do?
 
I'll be installing quiver killers in 4 or 5 (haven't decided yet) pairs of my skis soon (2-3 weeks). I plan on posting a photo-tutorial.
 
I remember doing the same a little while back. So im intrigued.
I'll have to talk to my local tech about if he would mount these. He really knows his stuff and has been doing it a long time, but that seems to make him wary of new methods/products, he's a little old school that way.
What kind of footprint do these leave compared to heli coils? If I remember correctly they took up enough space that mounting a ski more than once after they had a pair on could compromise the ski. If these cant be removed at all, how much space would they take up? I can see this affecting selling the skis, if you wanted to switch bindings (and patterns) or if for whatever reason you wanted to move the mount point.
Can anyone post a pic of one of these inserts next to a heli coil, so we can get an idea of the size/differences?
 
they are small and you could prob mount another pair of bindings closer to holes with QK's in them because it will hold the structure better than a normal hole that can be forced to implode/deform/or whatever you want to call it.

The inserts are small and make a hole not much bigger than a normal mount hole
 
I agree that they will affect the saleability of skis, although that will be mitigated a bit drilling for dukes. But the skis can definitely take more than one set of inserts. I plan on setting up a couple pairs of skis so that I can switch between FKS and Dukes depending on the day. You will have to separate the holes by about 1cm or so, but that isn't really different than what you have to do now when you re-drill. The footprint of the insert itself is larger than a normal hole though. Putting two sets of holes in the ski will affect the value moreso, but if you are making this kind of invest ment (approx. $36 per pair) you likely are holding on to the skis for 2-3 or more seasons.
 
figured it out, firefox vs. safari.
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To the guy talking about loctite. Once loctite dries it forms a bond, if you were to torque the screw tighter it would break the bond making the loctite useless. If your that worried about the screws coming off then use red loctite instead of the blue as recommended (but have a fun time getting those fuckers off). If loctite is keeping my flywheel on my car connected to my crank spinning at 7500 RPMs, knowing that if it came off it would literally cut off my legs, and I can drive it without worry. Then I think you can trust it to keep the screws in your bindings....
 
I see tech like this as the way forward, but I have a couple of crucial questions.

What size drill bit to I need to use, Do I need to use the same bit we use for regular plastic inserts, or do you simply use the regular 3.5/3.6 and 4.1 (if metal in the ski) x 9/9.5.

These are watertight right so I could use 2 different screw patterns per ski, as long as the wholes are wide enough apart, right????
 
Perhaps a very stupid question, but if the screw is incredibly difficult if not impossible to remove, then what is the point of the quiver killer anyway? Why not a standard binding mount?
 
The point of quiver killers is not to make the mount more secure, but to allow the easy removal of bindings from skis. This allows a pair of bindings to be used on more than one pair of skis. You could have 2-3 skis and one single pair of bindings to use between the skis.
 
Oh, apologies. I thought that all the talk of the scew loosening was with reference to the screw, rather than the thread screwd into the ski. Thanks.
 
As per the installation instructions that are included with every order and downloadable from the website, a 1/4" drill bit and 5/16-18 bottoming tap are required for the installation.

and Yes, they are watertight and lots of customers are mounting more than one pattern on one pair of skis. We recommend placing Quiver Killers at least 1.5cm apart when doing so.

PL
 
It's basically a heli coil with a tapped insert. Heli coils, if inserted right are just as tuff if not tougher than the regular screws.
 
having the quiver killers will disperse the weight better because the screws you use use to fasten them have more threads.

Also i do have helicoils on my skis along with quiver killers. i just rescrewed the helicoils and added quiver killers just so i didnt have to make a new set of holes and the helicoils actually had a good amount of movement in them and dont feel quite as sturdy.

 
Threads for remembering.

I have a feeling this may take a while to catch on, due to people already purchasing and using their skis until they die and then needing new ones. But i will most likely try these on my next pair and im pretty pumped!
 
oh yeah and hey man you have a spelling error under the installation overview. permanently is spelled wrong
 
Problem is that i have different bindings depending on the different skis that i'm riding. I won't want to be transferring a px 18 to my park ski and have a 125mm Brake piece over the edge. This is a really cool concept but there are definitely some downfalls IMO.
 
What about material. Will these rust and make it difficult to put in/ remove the screws? Also, will these use screws that are supplied or the binding screws that come with the binding?
 
Well PX18s have interchangeable brakes, so you shouldn't have a problem there. Really only FKS have issues.

Installed some of these on Friday, just did one pair. Will be doing more this week and posting a photo-tutorial soon.
 
Have used them now. have them mounted on my three skis makes moving bindings for travel ect. a breeze strongly recommended.
 
FYI, for those mounting two different binding patterns on the same ski, inserts need to be minimum 15mm clear, centre to centre. For example, I'll be mounting Small Dukes and FKS at 308mm. Mounting the FKS at midsole and the Dukes at -0.75cm results in a 14mm centre to centre distance in the front toe holes and 13mm distance in the FKS rear heel holes/Duke front heel holes. I had to move the Dukes back to -0.95cm to increase the clear centre-to-centre distances to 17mm (toes) and 16mm (heels).

It is also suggested that you mount up the skis normally (without inserts) and ski them once to make sure that the holes are correct. In my opinion you should only do this if you are mounting inserts for one set of bindings only. Normal binding screws are significantly smaller than Quiver Killers, and a 15mm or 20mm clear distance with regular screws could easily turn into less than 10mm with the inserts.
 
For those installing their own quiver killers, if you're doing a lot of them (2 skis or more) the drill bit will be getting a lot of use (obviously), so, once in a while make sure the FUCKING STOP COLLAR DOESN'T MOVE. Son of a bitch, almost drilled clear through my Billy Goats, 17 fucking times.

 
Wren- can you post pics once your done? I'd like to see some skis setup with 2 hole patterns. Considering doing the FKS/Duke pattern myself.
 
Well lets not get too precise here Alex, haha.

And yeah, check that stop collar. We just sacrificed a drill bit and superglued a block in place since the inserts are all the same depth. Much better than the adjustable ones, and our first attempt at a home-rigged one made out of duct tape and electrical tape. Buying a bit and supergluing something to it might be the way to go as far as I see it...
 
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