Newschoolers, Lets see your Whips!

13450550:slick_rick said:
I'll probably end up having to redo it after the summer anyway from rocks hitting it, so i'll do that. Thanks!

yeah definitely, take it all apart, sand it, do a few coats and get it all done really well and nicely, so much cheaper than paying close to $1000 for a titanium package grille
 
13450742:mmallender. said:
yeah definitely, take it all apart, sand it, do a few coats and get it all done really well and nicely, so much cheaper than paying close to $1000 for a titanium package grille

yeah for sure, dipping it is at most ten bucks and it looks fine
 
New vehicle purchase... 1977 280Z.

dTUvF6a.jpg


uhLj832.jpg
 
13451137:Titus69 said:
how are you liking it?

Fit and finish are great. I'll check in 1000 miles and see what it was able to collect

13451260:SenorVaca said:
Would you mind posting pictures when you get these on? 15k miles and I'm still on stocks. Not sure what I want yet but definitely need a summer set.

I'll definitely post up some pictures when everything is on there. Probably during the week after 4th of July I'll have everything installed.
 
Spent my morning trying to open the trunk door on my Jeep because it won't open (common Jeep problem), one of the parts in the latch is completely rusted and it won't open. I tried to get it open because I needed to replace a bulb in the tail light and a cracked tail light in the near future. I sprayed some white lithium grease on the lever on the inside of the door and now I'm letting the grease settle in for another day or two. Then I'll try again to see what happens next when I try to open it again within a day or two.

Anyone else that's a Jeep owner have or had a similar problem with the trunk door not opening?
 
13451670:Brule. said:
Spent my morning trying to open the trunk door on my Jeep because it won't open (common Jeep problem), one of the parts in the latch is completely rusted and it won't open. I tried to get it open because I needed to replace a bulb in the tail light and a cracked tail light in the near future. I sprayed some white lithium grease on the lever on the inside of the door and now I'm letting the grease settle in for another day or two. Then I'll try again to see what happens next when I try to open it again within a day or two.

Anyone else that's a Jeep owner have or had a similar problem with the trunk door not opening?

dude u bought a lemon
 
13451670:Brule. said:
Spent my morning trying to open the trunk door on my Jeep because it won't open (common Jeep problem), one of the parts in the latch is completely rusted and it won't open. I tried to get it open because I needed to replace a bulb in the tail light and a cracked tail light in the near future. I sprayed some white lithium grease on the lever on the inside of the door and now I'm letting the grease settle in for another day or two. Then I'll try again to see what happens next when I try to open it again within a day or two.

Anyone else that's a Jeep owner have or had a similar problem with the trunk door not opening?

white lithium grease is good stuff but its not going to do anything about the rust/corrosion. You need to spray it with a good penetrating oil (like PB blaster) insides the latch, the handle, the cable, basically anywhere that could be rusted. Let it sit for a while, try working the lever as you spray it to get it worked in. Should be good to go after that, than grease it if you want.
 
13451683:Charlie* said:
white lithium grease is good stuff but its not going to do anything about the rust/corrosion. You need to spray it with a good penetrating oil (like PB blaster) insides the latch, the handle, the cable, basically anywhere that could be rusted. Let it sit for a while, try working the lever as you spray it to get it worked in. Should be good to go after that, than grease it if you want.

I'll try that for sure. But for right now, I just want to get the latch to work so I can get to the tail lights. Then I can replace the broken tail light lens and replace a bulb for the turn signal on the non-broken tail light.
 
13451683:Charlie* said:
white lithium grease is good stuff but its not going to do anything about the rust/corrosion. You need to spray it with a good penetrating oil (like PB blaster) insides the latch, the handle, the cable, basically anywhere that could be rusted. Let it sit for a while, try working the lever as you spray it to get it worked in. Should be good to go after that, than grease it if you want.

This this this. PB is amazing stuff. I'd spray a couple coats too and hit the mechanism with a hammer or wrench moderately to loosen the rust.
 
put the rad in last weekend along with upper/lower rad hoses and thermostat. also painted the upper rad mounts and this little brass hose gold. while i was waiting for paint to dry and fluids to drain i started cleaning everything with a spraynine and a little metal brush. i i'm pretty happy with how it turned out and the whole project was surprisingly easy.

qZtlszr.jpg
 
13452697:xX*TACO-DOG*Xx said:
put the rad in last weekend along with upper/lower rad hoses and thermostat. also painted the upper rad mounts and this little brass hose gold. while i was waiting for paint to dry and fluids to drain i started cleaning everything with a spraynine and a little metal brush. i i'm pretty happy with how it turned out and the whole project was surprisingly easy.

qZtlszr.jpg

Looks good man. Watch out for that radiator cap, the mishimoto is notorious for leaking. Also what kind of tune do you have on the car, that intake MAF looks interesting for sure. Next best recommendation/mod would be get rid of that trash TMIC, and go to an sti or ets/grimmspeed one! They will do wonders! I might even be willing to do an e-tune for you! :D
 
13452339:Granite_State said:
This this this. PB is amazing stuff. I'd spray a couple coats too and hit the mechanism with a hammer or wrench moderately to loosen the rust.

I would use a rubber mallet not a hammmer/wrench. You don't want to damage it.
 
13452746:Moosen said:
Looks good man. Watch out for that radiator cap, the mishimoto is notorious for leaking. Also what kind of tune do you have on the car, that intake MAF looks interesting for sure. Next best recommendation/mod would be get rid of that trash TMIC, and go to an sti or ets/grimmspeed one! They will do wonders! I might even be willing to do an e-tune for you! :D

thanks for the love man! oh believe me i know about the radiator cap, i've been checking every day since i put it in. yup the intake is next on the list and a good friend of mine is planning on getting a grimmspeed TMIC so i'm gonna try and snag his old STI one. as for a tune i'm just running with an accessport on 94 stage 2. it's nice for what i have but i'll probably invest in a pro tune once i start getting into headers, turbo, injectors and other stuff
 
13452799:xX*TACO-DOG*Xx said:
thanks for the love man! oh believe me i know about the radiator cap, i've been checking every day since i put it in. yup the intake is next on the list and a good friend of mine is planning on getting a grimmspeed TMIC so i'm gonna try and snag his old STI one. as for a tune i'm just running with an accessport on 94 stage 2. it's nice for what i have but i'll probably invest in a pro tune once i start getting into headers, turbo, injectors and other stuff

Remember. an accessport is like going to mens warehouse and buying a suit. Made to fit all, but not made to fit anyone. A pro-tune is like going to a custom italian tailor and getting a suit that makes ladies drop vagina panties everywhere. ;)

This is coming from a tuner. Also no accessport tune is made for that intake, so i guarantee that your air fuel ratios are a bit off. Also if you injectors are slightly clogged, you can be running lean, etc. etc.
 
13452697:xX*TACO-DOG*Xx said:
put the rad in last weekend along with upper/lower rad hoses and thermostat. also painted the upper rad mounts and this little brass hose gold. while i was waiting for paint to dry and fluids to drain i started cleaning everything with a spraynine and a little metal brush. i i'm pretty happy with how it turned out and the whole project was surprisingly easy.

qZtlszr.jpg

Got any more pics?
 
13452800:Moosen said:
Remember. an accessport is like going to mens warehouse and buying a suit. Made to fit all, but not made to fit anyone. A pro-tune is like going to a custom italian tailor and getting a suit that makes ladies drop vagina panties everywhere. ;)

This is coming from a tuner. Also no accessport tune is made for that intake, so i guarantee that your air fuel ratios are a bit off. Also if you injectors are slightly clogged, you can be running lean, etc. etc.

yeah your'e right. the access port and intake came with the car and they're good enough for now. i have a huge list of things to do and a better tune, intake is definitely on that list. i just don't exactly have the money right now :/

13452805:crotchvent said:
Got any more pics?

check 2 or 3 pages back
 
13451670:Brule. said:
Spent my morning trying to open the trunk door on my Jeep because it won't open (common Jeep problem), one of the parts in the latch is completely rusted and it won't open. I tried to get it open because I needed to replace a bulb in the tail light and a cracked tail light in the near future. I sprayed some white lithium grease on the lever on the inside of the door and now I'm letting the grease settle in for another day or two. Then I'll try again to see what happens next when I try to open it again within a day or two.

Anyone else that's a Jeep owner have or had a similar problem with the trunk door not opening?

Ive got a 2000 cherokee, drivers side rear door was stuck closed. Tried for hours to get it open, let it sit for a few days after trying to spray it with lube, clicked the remote opener and she opened right up. I watched a few videos on it, One was for the back door, You need to take the door panel off, the gears slides down this threaded rod. All you gotta do is slide it up and zip tie it into place!

tldr; i have a jeep. take back door panel off, slide up the gear on the threaded rod, zip tie it into its proper place.

Hope this helps
 
Possibly might get my grandpa's mk3 supra since my grandparents are moving and he doesn't drive it anymore. Very few mechanical problems and probably some rust. Brother and I wanna keep it stock and running and have it stay within the family. Low miles I believe and the man took good care of it.
 
13454492:Titus69 said:
Possibly might get my grandpa's mk3 supra since my grandparents are moving and he doesn't drive it anymore. Very few mechanical problems and probably some rust. Brother and I wanna keep it stock and running and have it stay within the family. Low miles I believe and the man took good care of it.

attaching a sentimental value to an automobile is a bad time, all it takes is someone to hit you, and its gone.

none the less if you're okay with that emotional vulnerability, go for it, just maybe give this a read, it mignt not be all you hoped it to be.

https://speedhero.wordpress.com/2010/09/06/10-reason-mk3-supras-are-garbage/
 
13454815:Childstar. said:
attaching a sentimental value to an automobile is a bad time, all it takes is someone to hit you, and its gone.

none the less if you're okay with that emotional vulnerability, go for it, just maybe give this a read, it mignt not be all you hoped it to be.

https://speedhero.wordpress.com/2010/09/06/10-reason-mk3-supras-are-garbage/

My brother sent me that. I know they're not good but we wanna keep it in our family. No mods just work on it and care for it, take it to local meets and such. I looked at it today and the interior is pretty shitty but rust is pretty minimal and it just needs to be inspected and get new plates. I'll hopefully have it by the end of summer or earlier. We're probably trailering it up to our house instead of driving it 500 miles. I'm not gonna be racing it or anything just enjoy it as a cruiser.
 
I'm buying my dads old 2003 Jeep Sahara 5spd, and is it worth it to learn how to do oil changes and all that other stuff, instead of bringing it in to shops? My dad used to work at a gas station so he knows alot of car tuneups.
 
13456933:jackdonovan said:
I'm buying my dads old 2003 Jeep Sahara 5spd, and is it worth it to learn how to do oil changes and all that other stuff, instead of bringing it in to shops? My dad used to work at a gas station so he knows alot of car tuneups.

it's a very useful skill to have. as long as you have all the necessary tools you'll be saving yourself about $20-$50 on oil changes and possibly thousands on labor if you decide to do other repairs yourself.
 
13456933:jackdonovan said:
I'm buying my dads old 2003 Jeep Sahara 5spd, and is it worth it to learn how to do oil changes and all that other stuff, instead of bringing it in to shops? My dad used to work at a gas station so he knows alot of car tuneups.

Definitely. Changing oil is easy, and even if you have to take it in for a big repair, it pays to know your car to avoid getting screwed. You can learn a lot from jeepforum too.
 
Did my first oil change and went with penzoil ultra euro 5w-40. I'm probably crazy but I swear I immediately felt a difference in the car. Just felt much smoother.

Got my dyno appointment next Thursday. I was originally just going to go with an ebcs but grimmspeed was doing a group buy on their downpipe for a ridiculous price so I jumped on that.

Wheels/springs/studs are getting installed next Tuesday so you can say I'm really pumped for next week.
 
13462072:Cirillo said:
It was actually what I originally planned on going with. There's just not a lot of info on people running it in the FA motor.

The FA is a flat four, right? I can't remember.

Rotella T6 is super common on the MZR DISI platform, difference being that's an inline 4.
 
13462076:BenWhit said:
The FA is a flat four, right? I can't remember.

Rotella T6 is super common on the MZR DISI platform, difference being that's an inline 4.

Yeah flat four. It's one of the most recommended for the EJ from what I can see reading through the forums.

What price does a quart cost you?
 
Got back from the New England Forest Rally last night and well its safe to say that Im going to do my best to one day be a rally driver even if I do one race a year. Got to witness Ken Block, Travis Pastrana and David Higgins within 3 feet of me on a tight left turn and see M-Sports European Fiesta r2 and r5 going flat out. If youre from the region, volunteer for it, I got to rip down the stage with our convoy to our work areas multiple times.
 
13446158:xX*TACO-DOG*Xx said:
i can dig it.

Thank you sir.

13446177:plyswthsqrrls said:
nice ride. cast or forged NUEs?

Cast, they're just one piece wheels. Kinda heavy but I'm too cheap for fancy 3 piece wheels.

13449820:xX*TACO-DOG*Xx said:
i kinda regret not getting a little bigger offset so the wheel matches up with the fender and i was thinking about wheel spacers, but i just hear so many bad things on wear on different parts and loss of performance. are these ones suppose to be different? i've never seen them like that before.

13449822:BenWhit said:
5mm is generally safe and 10mm is common, but in my mind, anything beyond that is excessive and puts your car at risk.

False. As long as everything is torqued to spec you're fine. And also as long as you aren't stacking spacers and adapters all over each other you won't have an issue.

I ran 33mm adapters forever with absolutely 0 issues.
 
13465143:O.RLY said:
False. As long as everything is torqued to spec you're fine. And also as long as you aren't stacking spacers and adapters all over each other you won't have an issue.

I ran 33mm adapters forever with absolutely 0 issues.

Just because you had a "success story" with what I would deem excessive spacers, doesn't mean they are 100% guaranteed safe when torqued to spec. You are effectively widening your wheel base and placing more leverage on the wheel, placing stress on suspension that is calibrated for a certain wheel base and leverage spec. So, by pushing your wheel base out basically 7 centimeters, you were adding degrees of stress to your springs, struts, control arms, tie rods, etc... And likely affecting your car's sway characteristics. Probably altering your car's spring rate. Was this a track setup you were running?

I've gone bareback more times than I care to count and never got a chick pregnant. Doesn't mean it's safe.
 
13463457:Titus69 said:
Got back from the New England Forest Rally last night and well its safe to say that Im going to do my best to one day be a rally driver even if I do one race a year. Got to witness Ken Block, Travis Pastrana and David Higgins within 3 feet of me on a tight left turn and see M-Sports European Fiesta r2 and r5 going flat out. If youre from the region, volunteer for it, I got to rip down the stage with our convoy to our work areas multiple times.

Glad you had fun man. It sure is an expensive sport. How did the Nameless BRZ driven by chris duplessis do? That is a local shop to my shop. They make a lot of custom parts for our shop. And I have two really good friends that work there as well as being offered a job by them back in the day. Love that #gravelmachinegun
 
13465893:Moosen said:
Glad you had fun man. It sure is an expensive sport. How did the Nameless BRZ driven by chris duplessis do? That is a local shop to my shop. They make a lot of custom parts for our shop. And I have two really good friends that work there as well as being offered a job by them back in the day. Love that #gravelmachinegun

Yeah its not fun that its about $10k a race for gas, mechanics, service, parts, rooming etc. But when I do start I will probably do nefr since its 2-4 hours from my town and stpr in PA. Chris was doing good I got to see him on the first stage of the race and he almost crashed in front of us on a corner since he hit a bump while drifting and the tire marks he left were right on the edge of a 3-4 foot drop but later I saw his engine caught fire. The car is nuts though. Now I just have to wait and see if I can volunteer at the team oneil rally sprint through SCCA since thats about 3 hours away.
 
13466200:Cirillo said:
Wheels and springs are done. Getting tuned today.

20150723_114042_zps4y4fxobm.jpg


20150723_114032_zps93yam328.jpg


Not a crazy change but I think they look 1000x better than the stock wheels.

Agreed on the wheels. Post numbers after.
 
13466219:Titus69 said:
Agreed on the wheels. Post numbers after.

13466231:xX*TACO-DOG*Xx said:
looks good dude! how much did the springs drop it?

Thanks guys. I'll definitely have the numbers up by the end of the day. It's on RCE yellows which drop ~.8 inches. Front should settle a little though. I also have 10mm spacers on there.
 
2004 Dodge(Mercedes Benz) 2500 Sprinter. 2.7 Liter Turbo Diesel =23+MPG

WIll be living in it for the next 2+years in ski resort parking lots and traveling and fishing in the summer.

STOKED.

11781629_532264427417_4241123183795489555_n.jpg
 
13466200:Cirillo said:
Wheels and springs are done. Getting tuned today.

20150723_114042_zps4y4fxobm.jpg


20150723_114032_zps93yam328.jpg


Not a crazy change but I think they look 1000x better than the stock wheels.

You live in a quaint neighbourhood.
 
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