Mountain bikers, please help me pick a bike!

J

james6345789

Active member
I'm 6' 1/2" and 155 pounds looking into getting a new used bike. I've been riding singletrack in Minnesota for 4 years, and I'd say I'm intermediate. I'm looking around on craigslist and http://www.morcmtb.org/classifieds.

Here's what I am looking for

-29er

-hardtail

-most likely not FS

-disc brakes, preferably not mechanical (unless somebody has a good reason as to why I should)

-at least 24 speed drive train

-good front suspension

-high quality components

-20-21.5 inch frame (does that sound about right? from my crotch to the floor is like 35 inches.)

My budget is under 800 dollars. This bike looks really good (http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/bik/2971048973.html), but it's a bit over budget. I know a lot more about skiing than I do biking, so I'm hoping some of you guys could please help me out.

Do you guys have any good bikes in mind? Can you give me tips for buying a used bike? Any other information is also appreciated.
 
Chances are, especially if you are picking up a 29er, you aren't going to find something with hydraulic disks and super high quality suspension for under $800 unless you find a good deal used.

That being said, I never had any real issues with mechanical disks and as long as you take care of it, you don't need to spend a ton on a bike to have fun. If $800 is your budget and you are getting something new, make sure it has a half decent frame. You can always upgrade parts later if you have something good to build on.

Good luck!
 
I wish I could help you but I don't know much about 29ers specifically.
Frame size is a lot more than just 20-21". You need to take into consideration top tube length as well. The longer the top tube, the more you'll be leaning forward and the more extended your body position will be. Geometry also plays a huge role in a bike. Things like HTA, BB height, and chainstay length can all make or break a bike. For components, you should be looking at bikes that have Shimano XT or Sram X7 grade components. Make sure the bike has a good set of wheels, especially on a 29er. Flexy wheels suck. I wouldn't limit yourself to saying you want a certain number of speeds either. A lot of drivetrains with a lot of speeds have a ton of overlap in the gear ratios and are pretty pointless. I might look at systems that are 2x10, as in 2 chainrings in the front and a 10 speed cassette. Since you're buying a used bike, obviously make sure everything works well. No fork leaks or gear slippage. You can definitely get a really solid hardtail for 800.
I'm sorry I'm not being as specific as you probably would have liked, but I hope this post gives you an idea of what to keep in mind.
 
Oh yeah, check out pinkbike.com and ridemonkey.com.
Both of those sites have really good information and will probably have better classifieds than craigslist.
 
i don't know what your thinking of doing, but you should consider waiting till the season is over and you can get a full suspension decent, used bike for 1000 easy.
 
Thanks a ton for the replies. I definitely need to do more research before I buy a bike. I have heard that basically all mechanical disks besides avid juicys aren't very good, what is the truth to this? The reason I'm buying used is because I know that a 29er for 800 bucks new won't be too good.
 
Good decision buying used.
And I don't like mechanical disks because of the feel of the cable. The Avid mechanical brakes are quality though. Some people say they're just a little harder to maintain than hydros. Mechanical disk brakes shouldn't turn you completely off of a bike as long as the other stuff is what you want.
 
agreed, if you get discs, hydrolics are the way to go, i feel a little bit more likely to slam the brake with a cable and endo then with hydrolics. but this guys right, dont let one little thing change your mind, think of the cost to just get new brake cables? compared to a different bike
 
Why do you want a hardtail specifically? Full sus are better in almost every way, and you could be able to score a decent one for under 800. Check pinkbike!

I don't know much about 29ers, but my friend scored a good hardtail 29er w/ mechanical discs for 50 bucks at a yard sale. Obviously not top of the line but it works great for the amount of biking he does.
 
thats actually an amazing price for a 29'er. and yeah check out www.pinkbike.com its the NS of bikers.
 
Expect on pinkbikes forum, I feel like if I do anything NSG-style I'll get shot down by a British dude with a goatee who listens to heavy metal.
 
You as an intermediate rider will not notice a difference between mechanical and dydraulic brakes. I'd get mechanical unless your ready for leaky hoses and messy bleed kits.

Mechanical brakes are 10x easier to maintain. but check pinkbike.com in buy/sell so many good deals on bikes
 
On the note of pink bike, I would rather buy local and actually be able to ride it first sense I'm not exactly a bike expert. It shouldn't be too hard to find a good bike in Minnesota since we're ranked best in the country for bike trails.
 
I only read the OP and nothing else, but if you want to keep your bike as low maintenance as possible, go with mechanical disk brakes instead of hydraulic. You never have to bleed them and they are way easier and cheaper to repair. If you got the skills and the cashflow though, go for hydraulic.
 
mechanical disk brakes break more. hydraulics are lower maintenance and bleeding them is not that hard of a fix. yes its time consuming but easy. I worked in a bike shop as kinda a repairman assistant. (too young to actually get the repairman job) and mechanical disk brakes had a significantly higher rate of breakage. I had a chance to demo some 29ers this year and my favorites were the specialized fate and the kona kahuna. I'm still not really a fan of 29ers, the front tires wash out a lot and have less control at higher speeds.they plow through rocks when climbing though. but still not really a fan. id rather get a regular hard tail. just my opinion though.
 
I'd say go with mechanical brakes, I can't even begin to describe how much easier to maintain they are. Also good choice with going for a hardtail over full suspension. I believe that everyone should start out on a hardtail to learn how to ride and then if they're skill level has progressed beyond what a hardtail can take then a full suspension bike is worth it. I see lots of people around here go out and drop 2 or 3 grand on a nice bike, and can't ride for shit. Currently I ride an 08 spec Hardrock, but there is pretty much nothing stock left on it. I ride it way harder than it should be ridden, and destroy most of my friends when it comes to skill and speed, and can usually keep up with the the really good local riders on full dh rigs. Suspension isn't everything. You say you want 24 speeds but that is really unnecessary. I volunteered at a local xc race over the summer, and in both the 28 mile and 48 mile events and a vast majority of the top finishers were on single speed 29'r hardtails. Personally I run single speed, originally because my drivetrain went to shit and I had no cash to replace it but I've since fallen in love. Its so simple, you never have to worry about maintenance or keeping cable tension or proper setup, just get your chain tension dialed and lube it once in a while and you're set. Also there is so much less noise when riding, no chainslap or grinding gears, just you and the trail. Now I realize not many people like the idea of single speed, so I say go with the best of both worlds, single ring (34t) with a basic chainguide and a wide ratio (11-36t) cassette. You get less maintenance, cheaper cost, lighter weight, and so many benefits. Like someone mentioned earlier, 24 speeds has so many overlapping gears. Do you really need to be able to spin your cranks in 22-36 ratio? If you can't make it up a hill with a 1:1 ratio you shouldn't be riding. I just realized how long this got and how random and jumbled it is, so if you need any clarification just ask.

Sparknotes: Go mech brakes, hardtail, single ring with wide ratio cassette. Oh and good tires make all the difference in the world.
 
With my bikes, the only thing i have to replace with mechanical brakes are pads. But the bleeding of hydraulic brakes always took me forever to do, so maybe you just learned some shop tricks or something haha.

It all really comes down to personal preference, I'll stand by my mechanical and you can keep your hydraulic.
 
A few thoughts: - Don't go mechanical breaks, they are much more likely to break in the long run. That being said, if you treat hydraulic ones badly you may have to bleed them, but it takes little effort to avoid that.

- Also, you shouldn't necessarily be set on a hardtail 29er.... you could get a low rear travel 29er, and it might suit you better if ever wanted to do something besides cross country . Plus, if you ever wanted to upgrade, by starting with a full suspension, you would save yourself having to shell out for a new frame.

- And if this helps, I have a '10 Giant Trance x4, which was a very good intermediate XC bike when I got it. Since then, I have changed up my components a bit to make it more capable of downhill rides as well, but it still rips cross country. I recommend it, and you could probably get it or a similar one for $800
 
Ok, thanks a ton again guys. From what I understood,

-go mechanical due to less maintenance (big plus for me)

-don't worry so much about number of speeds

I have another question: what is the most important thing to look for when buying a used bike? Also, should I consider singlespeed 29ers?

But really thanks everyone, especially yoppersteeze for the big paragraph!

 
What can go wrong with mech that won't happen with hydrolic and vise versa? How much maintenance is required with either?

And I literally won't ever ride anything other than cross country where I live, there just isn't anything else. Unless I went way up north, there's sort of a downhill trail.
 
mechanical pros: less expensive, easier to setup.cons: needs more pressure to stop

Hydraulic: pros: more control, not as much pressure as mechanical, smoother overall stop.

cons. cant fix on trail if breaks, harder to set up.

mechanical the problem i see a lot is people just break the cable( it happens a lot on big downhills and loose sticks/rocks that are sharp), and for hydraulics its storing the bike upside down over winter and breaking the front fork and the sharp broken peaces snap the wire( that won't happen unless you really eat it hard on a downhill bike).
 
I would actually consider single speed, especially if all you ride is flat xc. Like I said above, no chainslap, and very little maintenance. You don't have to think of changing gears, just focus on shredding the trail.
 
It all comes down to what type of trails you want to be riding, and what type of rider you are. On a 29er, a hardtail is fine, but I wouldn't limit yourself to just a 29er. Sure they are new and all, but a full suspension 26 inch wheel bike can handle way rougher terrain than a hardtail 29er can.

As far as brakes go, you want hydraulic. Mechanical disc brake are nothing more than a pretty looking rim brake. Hydraulic disc brakes have way more stopping power than mechanical ones do. You can stop easily with just one finger, necessary if you're doing technical riding.

Look on pinkbike as people have already said, it is the ns of biking.

With a budget of $800, you can get a damn good used bike.

Things to look for:

-Components: Pretty much what makes the bike work. SRAM and Shimano both make different level of components. XT is what you want for shimano, and x7 is what you want for SRAM.

-Brakes: Hydraulic disc, only way to go. If the bike you are buying is a nice mountain bike, and it was made in the past 6 years, it will have hydraulic disc brakes.

-Wheels: Make sure they are true, otherwise you'll need to buy a new wheelset down the road.

-Pedals: Personal preference. If the bike has clip in pedals, try them. They are awesome

-Frame: Shouldn't have any cracks. Its not like skis where you can fix a core shot. A cracked frame is bad news

-Fork: There should be no leaking, and all of the levers and knobs should still preform their intended function. Fox, rockshox, xfusion, marzoochi, all good brands.

Like I said, don't limit yourself to 29ers. You can find $2-3k bikes, a few years old, in your price range. I found a 2k bike from 2008, got it for $450. Just look and see what components it has. If you find a full suspension with xt components and hydraulic brakes in your range, jump on it.

 
i've got very little to add to this conversation since all i really know is specialized (didn't bike until i sold bikes, all we sell is specialized) though i am a fan of 29ers, i'm probably pretty biased because spec. is pretty deeply on the 29er train, so i have no advice to offer the op in terms of used bikes, aside from the stumpy is sick (which it is), but someone else's advice will be better.

so all i really have to say here is that.. is a girl's bike.
 
Hydraulic will give you more modulation, more braking control, and more power with less finger effort.

They are a nice thing to have, but don't rule out a bike just because it is mechanical discs. It seems like most of your riding will be on rolling singletrack with limited duration descents. Mechanicals hold their own just fine on that type of terrain. You can always swap out brakes down the road on the cheap if you decide to upgrade components.

If you have the chance, get a 29er out on your trails though. I've ridden two different 29ers on my trail network and did not like them as they were sluggish around the switchbacks, although they RIPPED on more open trails.
 
My local trail is a lot of rolling stuff. I see the occasional SS there. I'm interested in single speeds.

I don't know If I should be looking for hydrolic or disks though, you guys seem to be split down the middle in preference. That must mean that I'll be safe either way.
 
3 years ago i found a gary fisher rig for like $450 on craigslist. single speed 29er with mechanical brakes. it is perfect for the xc riding i do on local singletrack. i rarely find myself wanting gears, but theres always that rare hill that beats me. i however do not like the single speed for riding on city roads, but that is not what i bought the bike for
 
Although I haven't had much luck on Craigslist, I think I will keep my eyes peeled. I guess I don't really need a new bike right now; buying Halos this summer is a priority. But if I find a killer deal, I might take it.
 
This is a sweet bike by norco.You get your hydraulic disc breaks. (which is a great choice btw)

As well as a rockshox fork which imo is the best brand of fork.

And it weighs in at 30 lbs!

Cost: $829

http://www.norco.com/bikes/mountain/29er-hardtail/charger-9/

charger-92-1.jpg


 
My Mountain Bike was under $800, and it was brand new. You should really go around to different bike shops, and try to find deals. I asked what the best deal they could give me was on a brand new Haro Thread 1.2, and they gave me 10% off which subtracted close to $90 from the price. I've had my Haro Thread 1.2 for 3 years now, and have abusively ridden dirt jumps, and some trails with it. It's a hardtail, but it's a single speed, but adding gears, and a derailleur isn't that difficult. The parts on it are all sealed, and the only things I've had to replace on it were tires, and tubes. I take really good care of my bike though, and constantly tune it. If you shop around at shops rather than the internet I think you could find a brand new bike with good components for about $800.
 
I don't want to sound like an ass but 30 pounds is heavy as shit for a hardtail. Looks like a nice bike though. OP, try and find one of those, and ride it.
 
agreed. My fully with 5" of travel and 2.3" tires weighs in around 30lbs. My brother's stumpy FSR is around 25lbs. 30 seems to be pretty average for a fully.
 
30 lbs is not overly heavy for an entry level hardtail 29er. The Specialized Stumpjumper 29er Comp comes in at 25lbs and carries a $2200 MSRP. For the lower price tag on the Norco, you're moving to lower tier components which equals more weight. I wouldn't be shocked if the wheelset weight difference alone is considerable between the two bikes.

That said, someone with a budget of $800 should not be concerned with weight in the slightest.

Much like all products, with bikes, there are three things everyone is looking for.

-Low cost

-Reliable parts

-Low weight

At all given times, you can only achieve two of the three product qualities.
 
all true says, but i imagine if he was looking used (though i don't know how big the market for used 29ers is yet) he could get a much lighter bike for one bought new at $800.
 
Yes it is heavy but for a bike thats $829 its decent, my norco xc team carbon weighs 19.8 lbs now thats light
 
Out of curiosity, what are you currently riding? This will give us a reference point to work off of.
 
I ride a trek 3700... One of their entry level mountain bikes. Everything is stock on it besides my cliples pedals, bar ends, and I just had to replace my rear deraileur and freewheel.
 
Just got new Trek Mamba 29er, with a 19.5 inch frame (i'm 6'1 and it's perfect). It's a sick bike, but the pedals it comes with suck.

A little pricier then 800, more like 950.

2012%20Mamba%20white.jpg
 
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