Learning Mountaineering Skills

Sklar

Active member
Staff member
Hey all,

So, I'm from Colorado, and don't ave much high alpine/glacier experience. I've been living in WA going to school for a few years now, and would like to do more skiing/climbing on the volcanoes. Does anyone have any good resources to get learnt on high alpine/glacier stuff?
 
Check out this book, from what I've seen it's pretty much the undisputed bible of mountaineering. It's very thorough, so I've never made it through the whole thing, prefering to flip around to the sections I need. You can get away with an older edition, but be away that some technology has changed since then (for example the advice about air mattresses).
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/1594851387/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1

That said, you're better off taking a course or finding someone to mentor you when you're starting out.
 
Yeah, I have that book as well, it's insane! so much info, I need to get into some more practical classes/trips though.
 
Not the most helpful answer, but time in the field is the best way. There's no real short cuts, but you can certainly get familiar with:

-Freedom of the Hills, your copy should be falling apart by the time your done with it.

-Join a mountaineering club, collectively countless hours of experience.

-Start climbing, get your ropework down

-Get familiar with trad gear

-Get familiar with snow and ice protection
 
13362804:paige. said:
Check out this book, from what I've seen it's pretty much the undisputed bible of mountaineering. It's very thorough, so I've never made it through the whole thing, prefering to flip around to the sections I need. You can get away with an older edition, but be away that some technology has changed since then (for example the advice about air mattresses).
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/1594851387/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1

That said, you're better off taking a course or finding someone to mentor you when you're starting out.

It's absolutely the undisputed bible!

The best thing you can do is take a crevasse rescue course. The Mountaineers and and most of the guide outfits on Rainier host a couple each year. I believe there are a few on Baker as well. This course will teach you tons about building bomber snow anchors and rigging pulley systems like the Z and Z-C pulleys that are essential to know when traveling in crevasse land. Crevasse rescue and Avy training are both incredibly important on glaciers.

Besides crevasse rescue and avy training, route finding and general climbing / roped up travel practice is a must if you want to bag summits using the less traveled routes up the volcanoes. You need to learn how to walk in crampons, spot and cross a snow bridge, time the climbs well so you're out of dangerous Serac and rockfall areas when they're at their most unstable, and much more.

As for heading up to Camp Muir on Rainier or summiting Adams for some awesome summer skiing, you don't need much if any real glacier travel experience.
 
right on guys, a class isn't in the cards for me right now ($$$) so I'll check out some of those other links
 
Freedom of the Hills is an amazing resource. Curious about snow bollards or how to make a v-thread? Bam. Good glacier travel techniques? Bam. People have different preferences, but you can always count on FOTH to be a wonderful starting point.

This article, by certified Ohioan Brody Leven, is a really good way to start thinking about it.
http://www.tetongravity.com/story/ski/5-tips-for-aspiring-ski-mountaineers

The mountains aren't like football or tennis: you should be introduced by people who care about you, who want to show you what's out there, and prove that it's worth all the sweat and expensive gear. Community is essential. More than classes, you need three groups of people:

-Some like minded, similar ability buddies your age. People that want to learn, are about as fit as you are, and have the gear or are in a position to get it shortly. If you don't have these guys/gals, you won't get out enough to pick up the experience you need.

-Some experienced, older dudes/gals who have been around and know their shit. They've seen or had buddies die out there. They've made important mistakes and learned and are still around. Maybe they've been a guide for a while--this can be really helpful. Most importantly for this group, they need to be keen on showing you the ropes and pitons and whatever else you'll need to learn along the way. I can't emphasize these mentors enough--they've been instrumental in many things I've learned. They help to temper your youthful, "fuck it let's go" attitude. They'll show you how to be more efficient. And they'll help you to grow your circle of climbing partners.

-Some people with less knowledge or experience than you have. Maybe it's a friend you don't know too well, but they've never been out to dig a pit. Even if you've just done your Level 1, you can show them that. Maybe you teach somebody to belay at a crag. Maybe you take someone for their first tour. This is your way to give back and help people get into the thing you've gotten so much from.

It's also worth noting that mountaineering skills and stamina aren't too difficult to gain, whereas it takes forever to learn to ski well. Way easier to be a skier getting into the mountains than a mountaineer trying to start skiing. So at least you have that going for you.
 
Thanks David!

It's been a slow process getting a crew going here at UPS, but I finally have a decent crew to get out with (just in time to graduate in December...)
 
13383613:Sklar said:
Thanks David!

It's been a slow process getting a crew going here at UPS, but I finally have a decent crew to get out with (just in time to graduate in December...)

And to that end, I'll be out in April and possibly May. Let's try to go out and ski something. Too bad the Zipper had an all alder runout this year.
 
13383800:Literature said:
And to that end, I'll be out in April and possibly May. Let's try to go out and ski something. Too bad the Zipper had an all alder runout this year.

I'm super down!

I'll be up in Whistler in a couple weeks for WSI, but I'm around other than that.

And yea, it really is a bummer, I was jonesing to ski it this winter. Been playing around the Nisqually chutes mostly.
 
13383591:Literature said:
-Some experienced, older dudes/gals who have been around and know their shit. They've seen or had buddies die out there. They've made important mistakes and learned and are still around. Maybe they've been a guide for a while--this can be really helpful. Most importantly for this group, they need to be keen on showing you the ropes and pitons and whatever else you'll need to learn along the way. I can't emphasize these mentors enough--they've been instrumental in many things I've learned. They help to temper your youthful, "fuck it let's go" attitude. They'll show you how to be more efficient. And they'll help you to grow your circle of climbing partners.

Speaking of mentors.. I'm going to be skiing the beartooths a ton this summer, lets tour!!
 
13384204:nsfairy said:
Speaking of mentors.. I'm going to be skiing the beartooths a ton this summer, lets tour!!

When are you getting up there? Things area already looking pretty thin, but there's almost always skiing to do if you're willing to hike for it. I'll probably be in the Beartooths two or three times this summer fishing and backpacking, since I'm living on Yellowstone Lake starting mid-May.
 
13384313:Aenigma said:
When are you getting up there? Things area already looking pretty thin, but there's almost always skiing to do if you're willing to hike for it. I'll probably be in the Beartooths two or three times this summer fishing and backpacking, since I'm living on Yellowstone Lake starting mid-May.

Living in Jackson this summer! and I'll probably be there mid may for a week or two and then again for the session
 
13383807:Sklar said:
I'm super down!

I'll be up in Whistler in a couple weeks for WSI, but I'm around other than that.

And yea, it really is a bummer, I was jonesing to ski it this winter. Been playing around the Nisqually chutes mostly.

If you ever need another mountain gaper I'd be in. This last weekend's trip really got me going and I just want to climb stuff, really want to do Hood pretty soon as well as anything else I can find. Probably be out to Montana to do some wandering as well.
 
I'm actually back home in Washington this summer from Utah and am looking for someone to go touring/climbing with if you want to join. I've done some mountaineering such as crevasse rescue and have spent quite a bit of time up on Rainier. Send me a message if you want to meet up. I'm trying to go up Adams next weekend for fun if you want to tag along!
 
13435174:The_Powtographer said:
I'm actually back home in Washington this summer from Utah and am looking for someone to go touring/climbing with if you want to join. I've done some mountaineering such as crevasse rescue and have spent quite a bit of time up on Rainier. Send me a message if you want to meet up. I'm trying to go up Adams next weekend for fun if you want to tag along!

Woo!

I'll be back on Tuesday
 
Back
Top