Is it possible to fuck up a CAST mount?

d5r

Member
I just got my CAST system mounted and picked up from the shop. Is it possible to fuck up a mount so that the toes won't change out? I cannot get the toes to pop off the plate no matter how hard I try. Online I see people striking it firmly with the heel of their hand and it pops out, I've been smashing my toes with a textbook way harder than I could strike with my hand and the fuckers move like 1/5 of a cm but won't go from the small hole to the big hole to release. I can't go back to the shop until tomorrow.

Any suggestions? or are these just a pain in the ass the first few times?
 
14488594:powpatrol said:
you are pushing the black switch to the side right ? some close up photos could be helpful too

Holy shit I feel like an idiot now... That's embarrassing. I took a few dabs before bringing them up from the car and I missed this step lmao. tysm! should I delete the thread or leave it up incase someone else is braindead like me in the future?
 
For what its worth a CAST mount is probably the easiest mount to fuck up. I did two pairs my first go and only one of the four plates allowed the toe piece to slide on easily. The other three had crooked posts so I had to hit them with a hammer and file them a little bit to make everything fit right
 
the trick to mounting a cast right is switching the toepiece halfway through and tightening the screws with the dynafit in place
 
14488728:Paul. said:
For what its worth a CAST mount is probably the easiest mount to fuck up. I did two pairs my first go and only one of the four plates allowed the toe piece to slide on easily. The other three had crooked posts so I had to hit them with a hammer and file them a little bit to make everything fit right

yeah, second this. CAST is very easy to fuck up. If you are mounting them yourself and use a drill without depth stop, you can easily drill deeper than needed, even 1mm is enough, then washers will be overtightened and you will not be able to switch toes. That's what happened to me. Other bindings are not so sensitive to hole drill depth
 
Co-opting this thread for my question. Ive got one cast toe that doesn't like to stay locked on. It will slide over the studs and sounds like it locks on, but you can apply pressure to the base of it upwards and it can slide off. Trying to use it like this, clipping toe in the pins wont fully engage and the boot pops out. It often takes ~5 min and several attempts to get it to a point where it is usably locked on. Ive been using it this way a bit more than a year but when doing days of short laps its really annoying and makes me hate my setup. Any advice?
 
14488866:ArDdQ said:
Co-opting this thread for my question. Ive got one cast toe that doesn't like to stay locked on. It will slide over the studs and sounds like it locks on, but you can apply pressure to the base of it upwards and it can slide off. Trying to use it like this, clipping toe in the pins wont fully engage and the boot pops out. It often takes ~5 min and several attempts to get it to a point where it is usably locked on. Ive been using it this way a bit more than a year but when doing days of short laps its really annoying and makes me hate my setup. Any advice?

Are these tabs getting caught on top of the screws? If so you can bend them in slightly so they lock in easier

1057700.jpeg
 
14488992:Paul. said:
Are these tabs getting caught on top of the screws? If so you can bend them in slightly so they lock in easier

View attachment 1057700

Not so sure thats the case. Both touring toe pieces work fine on ski A but ski B both have this issue. Checking both those clips aren’t catching the screws either.
 
14488866:ArDdQ said:
Co-opting this thread for my question. Ive got one cast toe that doesn't like to stay locked on. It will slide over the studs and sounds like it locks on, but you can apply pressure to the base of it upwards and it can slide off. Trying to use it like this, clipping toe in the pins wont fully engage and the boot pops out. It often takes ~5 min and several attempts to get it to a point where it is usably locked on. Ive been using it this way a bit more than a year but when doing days of short laps its really annoying and makes me hate my setup. Any advice?

aside from what [tag=184429]@Paul.[/tag] is saying, are you pulling the black latch back when putting them onto the ski ? You can also then push it back slightly when on the ski to really lock it in place.
 
14489117:powpatrol said:
aside from what [tag=184429]@Paul.[/tag] is saying, are you pulling the black latch back when putting them onto the ski ? You can also then push it back slightly when on the ski to really lock it in place.

Yeah I do that. Doesn't seem to make much difference, especially if there is ever any ice on the screws.
 
14489099:ArDdQ said:
Not so sure thats the case. Both touring toe pieces work fine on ski A but ski B both have this issue. Checking both those clips aren’t catching the screws either.

Are any of the screws digging in to the top of the tech toe? Sounds like you might have a slightly crooked pedestal
 
14490049:Paul. said:
Are any of the screws digging in to the top of the tech toe? Sounds like you might have a slightly crooked pedestal

Yeah, one of the rear ones is a bit crooked. Unfortunate this is so sensitive. Back it out and try and re-align the screw? Seal with wood glue/epoxy?
 
14490059:ArDdQ said:
Yeah, one of the rear ones is a bit crooked. Unfortunate this is so sensitive. Back it out and try and re-align the screw? Seal with wood glue/epoxy?

yeah you got it, i had the same issue and this was the instructions they sent over email. hope you get yours dialed!

1058045.jpeg
 
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