lukemostoller
Member
I separated and bent the tail edge on my automatics and dont know how to fix it.
How do I fix this?
- Thread starter lukemostoller
- Start date
CatdickBojangles
Active member
Pics?
lukemostoller
Member
14094609:CatdickBojangles said:
Sorry about the delay, just got back to school lol
No.Quarter
Active member
From another thread where someone had de-lammed a tail:
https://www.newschoolers.com/forum/thread/874922/Is-this-fixable-
"Surface prep is very important for epoxy to bond correctly. Thread a piece of coarse sandpaper bewteen the delaminated layers, preferably the plastic backed stuff so it doesn't tear apart, then blow out the dust with compressed air if you can, gently spreading apart the delamination but not causing it to spread further. Clean everything out with iso alcohol
I like to use Devcon 2 ton epoxy for ski repairs. It's important to have everything prepped to go before you mix the epoxy, but this does have a decent working time. It comes with a little stir stick, but you might want to cut a piece of thin plastic from the packaging to get the epoxy deeper in the crevice. Make sure to get a good coating on every surface that has delaminated, but not too much that it makes a mess.
Once you have it all coated up with epoxy it is time for clamping. First wipe off any excess from the outside surfaces, then place a layer or two of plastic wrap on the ski. I like to use a couple pieces of 2x4 to sandwich the ski between and act as jaws for the clamping. These will provide more even clamping pressure, but deform just a little bit to the irregularities in the surface of the ski, you can also place a piece of rubber cut from a bike tube between the jaws and the ski to provide more even pressure.
Once everything is in place, start tightening the clamps, you could probably get away with a single C clamp, but it will be good to have a couple in your toolbox for future repairs, they're cheap. Make sure that the clamp jaws are centered over the ski, and not inline with the edge so that they are applying force directly perpendicular to the face of the ski. Get them as tight as you can so that it flattens out that buckle in the ptex and compresses the delamination back together tightly. Let it cure with the clamp on for a full 24 hours.
After it has cured, take of the clamps, peel away the plastic wrap, and sand off the excess epoxy that was squeezed out. This is why you want to use the minimum amount of epoxy, but not too little. You are going to want to round over the sharp edges with a file to minimize the tips catching on stuff.
Now is when you want to install rivets. Use stainless steel rivets and make sure you get the size that suits the thickness of the ski at the repair. Make sure to use the proper sized drill bit as well to make the hole. I'd use 2 or 3 rivets about 1/2" to 3/4" from the edge spaced about 1.5" apart. Coat the hole with some epoxy to keep it sealed and have the flat side of the rivet facing down (insert the rivet from the ptex side). It's pretty hard to fuck up with a rivet gun, but play with it little bit before installing them so you understand how it works. You can flatten down the squished side of the rivet if you would like with a hammer, but make sure you are doing it on a hard surface with the opposite side of the rivet directly on the hard surface.
Boom, ski is "fixed" until you inevitably do it again but it will go smoother the second time around.
Summary of tools:
Sandpaper
file
Alcohol
Epoxy
C Clamps
2x4 scraps
plastic wrap
rivets
rivet gun"
Your damage isn't as bad so you could probably get away without rivets. I would suggest using a pliers carefully bend the edge back in place. Be careful to not damage the ski further doing this. Do your surface prep before bending the edge back. you might want to get a Dremel and a small wire wheel for this, and a Dremel is a great tool to have for ski repair in general. I have the micro version and love it, it fits great in my hand and is quite precise, but is a little under-powered compared to other models. You are going to really want to concentrate the clamping force onto the center of the dent to bend it straight and the epoxy to set well without the dent trying to pull apart the bond.
https://www.newschoolers.com/forum/thread/874922/Is-this-fixable-
"Surface prep is very important for epoxy to bond correctly. Thread a piece of coarse sandpaper bewteen the delaminated layers, preferably the plastic backed stuff so it doesn't tear apart, then blow out the dust with compressed air if you can, gently spreading apart the delamination but not causing it to spread further. Clean everything out with iso alcohol
I like to use Devcon 2 ton epoxy for ski repairs. It's important to have everything prepped to go before you mix the epoxy, but this does have a decent working time. It comes with a little stir stick, but you might want to cut a piece of thin plastic from the packaging to get the epoxy deeper in the crevice. Make sure to get a good coating on every surface that has delaminated, but not too much that it makes a mess.
Once you have it all coated up with epoxy it is time for clamping. First wipe off any excess from the outside surfaces, then place a layer or two of plastic wrap on the ski. I like to use a couple pieces of 2x4 to sandwich the ski between and act as jaws for the clamping. These will provide more even clamping pressure, but deform just a little bit to the irregularities in the surface of the ski, you can also place a piece of rubber cut from a bike tube between the jaws and the ski to provide more even pressure.
Once everything is in place, start tightening the clamps, you could probably get away with a single C clamp, but it will be good to have a couple in your toolbox for future repairs, they're cheap. Make sure that the clamp jaws are centered over the ski, and not inline with the edge so that they are applying force directly perpendicular to the face of the ski. Get them as tight as you can so that it flattens out that buckle in the ptex and compresses the delamination back together tightly. Let it cure with the clamp on for a full 24 hours.
After it has cured, take of the clamps, peel away the plastic wrap, and sand off the excess epoxy that was squeezed out. This is why you want to use the minimum amount of epoxy, but not too little. You are going to want to round over the sharp edges with a file to minimize the tips catching on stuff.
Now is when you want to install rivets. Use stainless steel rivets and make sure you get the size that suits the thickness of the ski at the repair. Make sure to use the proper sized drill bit as well to make the hole. I'd use 2 or 3 rivets about 1/2" to 3/4" from the edge spaced about 1.5" apart. Coat the hole with some epoxy to keep it sealed and have the flat side of the rivet facing down (insert the rivet from the ptex side). It's pretty hard to fuck up with a rivet gun, but play with it little bit before installing them so you understand how it works. You can flatten down the squished side of the rivet if you would like with a hammer, but make sure you are doing it on a hard surface with the opposite side of the rivet directly on the hard surface.
Boom, ski is "fixed" until you inevitably do it again but it will go smoother the second time around.
Summary of tools:
Sandpaper
file
Alcohol
Epoxy
C Clamps
2x4 scraps
plastic wrap
rivets
rivet gun"
Your damage isn't as bad so you could probably get away without rivets. I would suggest using a pliers carefully bend the edge back in place. Be careful to not damage the ski further doing this. Do your surface prep before bending the edge back. you might want to get a Dremel and a small wire wheel for this, and a Dremel is a great tool to have for ski repair in general. I have the micro version and love it, it fits great in my hand and is quite precise, but is a little under-powered compared to other models. You are going to really want to concentrate the clamping force onto the center of the dent to bend it straight and the epoxy to set well without the dent trying to pull apart the bond.
No.Quarter
Active member
I’m bored at work so I drew a nifty lil color coded diagram of one way this could be done. You could possibly bend the edge back to straight this way by playing with the spacer thickness (green).
Sorry about the shitty handwriting
Sorry about the shitty handwriting
lukemostoller
Member
Thanks for the great info, not sure if im gonna do it myself or take it to the shop bc I don’t really have a workshop in my dorm room. I will figure it out
No.Quarter
Active member
14101770:lukemostoller said:
If you have two office chairs you have enough of a workshop to do this is your dorm. If you take it to a shop it may be expensive and there is no guarantee that whatever dumbass tech is fixing it has any more experience than you do.
i was lucky enough to live on the floor of my dorm that had a ski wax room instead of a lounge, and the building was right next to the outdoor rec center which had ski tuning stations you could rent out. My roommate and I also managed to fit 8 pairs of skis and two bikes in a room that you could touch opposite walls at the same time. You can make it work