Holes for 5mm Larger BSL, Can I Run It With CAST?

mattytru

Active member
Quick question: looking at a pair of skis with Pivot holes drilled for a 327 BSL. My new boots will be 322 BSL. Is this too large of a difference to reuse the old holes with CAST system? Would forward pressure adjustment make this legit or is it still too big? And thus too close to re drill as well?

Thanks
 
Not sure about cast but I know pivots have 10mm of adjustability. It’s my understanding that cast doesn’t alter heel. You’re talking about 5mm change. Depends on where the heel is on the brake track (arms, rods or whatever it’s called) but you should be good in theory

**This post was edited on Aug 25th 2021 at 12:36:52pm
 
Mounted my cast’s myself using a pivot jig in the shop I worked at. The pattern is the same as Pivot. Make sure when you are mounting the posts use the pivot toe piece plate to help guide your screws straight down into the ski, mine we a little off and made the toe piece a little finicky.
 
14314614:Addi said:
Mounted my cast’s myself using a pivot jig in the shop I worked at. The pattern is the same as Pivot. Make sure when you are mounting the posts use the pivot toe piece plate to help guide your screws straight down into the ski, mine we a little off and made the toe piece a little finicky.

What are you saying about using the toe piece to guide the screws in? If you use a jig you drill holes, put the bindings on, and drill the screws in. How do you manage to not drill them in straight
 
14314519:BradFiAusNzCoCa said:
Not sure about cast but I know pivots have 10mm of adjustability. It’s my understanding that cast doesn’t alter heel. You’re talking about 5mm change. Depends on where the heel is on the brake track (arms, rods or whatever it’s called) but you should be good in theory

**This post was edited on Aug 25th 2021 at 12:36:52pm

dope yeah, sounds like at least 10mm for sure. people seemed to agree in this threadhttps://www.newschoolers.com/forum/thread/864852/Look-Pivot-adjustment-range
 
14314657:animator said:
What are you saying about using the toe piece to guide the screws in? If you use a jig you drill holes, put the bindings on, and drill the screws in. How do you manage to not drill them in straight

Because the cast uses towers to allow you to change the toe you don’t have the jig or binding on the ski when you screw the mounting screws in. The tolerance is very close so if the towers are even slightly angled the toe pieces will be tough to take on and off. I followed the instructions from Cast but would amend them only slightly to: when you are screwing in the towers after putting wood glue in your jig drilled holes, line the toe piece base up with the mounting holes and thread the towers in over top. If you haven’t mounted Cast bindings I understand how you think it would go in straight, I did too but mine were slightly off and I have never had that happen mounting regular bindings that have the plate against the ski.

**This post was edited on Aug 25th 2021 at 11:00:51pm
 
14314682:Addi said:
Because the cast uses towers to allow you to change the toe you don’t have the jig or binding on the ski when you screw the mounting screws in. The tolerance is very close so if the towers are even slightly angled the toe pieces will be tough to take on and off. I followed the instructions from Cast but would amend them only slightly to: when you are screwing in the towers after putting wood glue in your jig drilled holes, line the toe piece base up with the mounting holes and thread the towers in over top. If you haven’t mounted Cast bindings I understand how you think it would go in straight, I did too but mine were slightly off and I have never had that happen mounting regular bindings that have the plate against the ski.

**This post was edited on Aug 25th 2021 at 11:00:51pm

oh you were talking ab the cast toe lmao I thought you were talking ab the pivot toe im dumb. Ive mounted cast but didnt put 2 and 2 together lol
 
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