Help with some Rossignol FKS 180's

Toilet-Ott3r

Toilet-Ott3r

Member
Hi guys just a little bit of tech help required here!

So I got myself some 11/12 Rossi FKS 180 bindings and my DIN is set to 9, I know there are very durable and well constructed through out the binding but when I clip in its rather aggressive by the binding. Then trying to unclip is hell, i have to exert a hell of a lot of force just to get the boot to unclip.

Is this normal to be experiencing this or could it be a binding/mounting problem. My boots are Amplid Subegenious with a 309 sole length and the bindings were mounted without a jig and therefore with the manual mount cards supplied by Rossi in the box.

I know its the first time using a turn table heel and a high din binding as I felt it would suit my skiing style more so please don't shoot me down in flames, just some great tech/troubleshooting advice would be great lads

I could also post a video if that would help more.

Cheers

Zak
 
Well first the din range on those is 8-18....being at a 9 is pushing it and I would at least have those set at 10....I'm no binding expert but I've always been told you should be +2 of minimum din and -2 of max din.....with that said it shouldn't be impossible to get into or out of the binding...a high din spring like that will be difficult to to get in or out of but by the sound of your dilemma I'm guessing you mounted these yourself?....it's entirely possible that they are mounted too tight for that size boot....if your able to, take them to a shop and see what they say....it could be something as simple as an adjustment.
 
Go to a shop and have them check the forward pressure. make sure the white tab is behind the marking on the base of the heel plate. Another thing is that you might want to trade those bindings for some older 155 or something similar because the din range would be better for you, if your not riding at 14 or 15.
 
Thanks for the reply, I had them mounted by the techs down at the snow & rock store, but I reckon i shall give it a go by upping the DIN and if that fails will take em in to get checked
 
There's your problem.

Seeing as this awful chain doesn't even sell them, tells me that you shouldn't have gone there in the first place.

Now I have very little knowledge in mounting bindings but in my opinion you should of asked them to use a jig rather than the paper jigs (is there any difference?).

I have a pair of FKS 140s waiting to be mounted onto a pair of new skis (once they arrive), and I'll most likely be taking them to http://www.skibartlett.com/index.asp as I know they have a jig because I've seen it!
 
Yeah dude I probably should of made the trip to Ski Bartlett, the sad thing was I didn't find out until I came down to S&R down at hemel an hour later to find that they were not using a jig on them. I literally had them mounted yesterday which is why I've started troubleshooting the problem today. Probably best to get the 180's switched out with the 140's.

Will take it down to the techs at ski bartlett and get their opinion on it.
 
why did you buy an 8-18 din binding?

sounds like you'd be be fine w/px 12 s or griffons or fks 140. plus you're in england, why spend all that money on bindings to ski on snowflex most the time?
 
If your in london, go to ellis brigham in covent garden. Proberbly your best option in the capital. By the sounds of it though your just not used to a high Din binding. You would have been much better off with a lower Din binding, somthing up to around 14 would be perfect. Dont just up your Din to be in a safe mode for the binding as this will proberbly not be good for you if you need to release.

Allthough mounting with a paper jig is not ideal, I doubt your bindings have been set up wrong there proberbly just a bit too much for you at the moment.
 
Yo if your downsizing to 140's consider if you are an aggressive skier or not because if you are you will probably blow out the toes on the 140's since they are not metal. I personally will never use plastic POS bindings ever in my life again so reconsider. They probably didn't mount them correctly or had to fudge it a little bit to make them work if the skis were already mounted with a different pair of bindings. You can adjust the heals and that is probably your problem, they should clip in and come off fairly easy if they are mounted correctly. Glad I had MSO in dillon do my bindings!
 
I'm a little on the larger side and I ski FKS 180's at 10. Mostly because they're all metal and I kept breaking Jester toepieces.

They're very picky bindings with regards to forwards pressure. If it's wrong they'll either slop around or be really hard to get out of the heel. General internet agreement is you want the white marker tab at the back of or ever so slightly behind the notch on the heel, but apparently varies between boots, bindings and the location of the moon when they were mounted.

As for not riding them at high DINs? Meh. At 10 these release WAY cleaner than my Jesters did at the same DIN and they also feel way more solid and the elasticity before they let you go is pretty damn awesome.

Haters gonna hate...
 
you spelleded know wrong n00bs

Your shit is either mounted right or its not

doesnt matter if the tech used a jig or a marked peice of yarn or smoked 2 joints while jammin out to sublime. either the mounts done right or its not

how it got done shouldnt matter if its all good
 
Don't Listen to this fool.
I'm 5' 11", 190 lbs and ride pretty hard. I've had 4 pairs of pivots and 2 pairs of fks. The only thing I've broken is heel pieces. YES there are weak, breakable plastic bindings, but its stupid to generalize that ALL are going to break. The pivot/fks plastic toe is durable.
I highly recommend going to the fks 140
 
Just curious, how is going to the 140 going to solve his problem? Presumably he'll ski the 140 at 9 DIN as well, so if the forwards pressure is still set up wrong, and given that the 140/180 heel is identical apart from what it's made of, he's going to have exactly the same problem. Leaving alone the debate about using a 8-18 binding at the bottom end of the DIN range...
 
He should be able to adjust the forward pressure enough to fix the problem (shop should do a binding test, but if he doesn't want that then the forward pressure is adjusted by turning the arms of the heel piece...but I'd highly suggest a binding test anyways). I think the 140 is probably a good choice, but not completely necessary, but you'd have to ride at at least 10 to keep the 180s, if you still want to ride at 9, then get the 140s. Also, I've noticed that when I went from my 140s to 180s they were a bit harder to get out of, so it could be the difference in binding, but it could also be the difference in wear (new binding vs old binding, I was judging my bindings from end of season on 140s to beginning of season on 180s, I can't remember what the 140s were in the beginning, but the 180s did break in as the season went on a bit too).
 
because the DIN could be playing a role in his problems along with forward pressure, also it would be a much more suitable binding. Also because now would be the ideal time to switch down to the 140 if hes going to.
 
I'm assuming the drill holes are fully identical to the 140? Anyone care to trade their FKS 140 which has gotta really be in epic condition for my brand new 11/12 180 in that case?

Cheers
 
Technically a 14 DIN binding at 9 and an 18 DIN binding at 9 will take the exact same force to release... so how could DIN play a roll? If anything the 18 DIN binding will release cleaner because the spring is less compressed to achieve 9 DIN. And the forward pressure? The heel-pieces are identical, how is going to an FKS140 and setting the forward pressure correctly somehow better than just setting the forward pressure correctly on the FKS180?

As for suitability, we don't know how much he weighs, and since the 180 has a different toe piece (with true vertical release, yes it does do vertical release 100% confirmed...) that in my opinion is considerably better than the 140 toe (although the 140 toe is very good) there's no defining reason why he should go to the 140. The 180 is a burly as hell binding that should last you damn near forever, you can't quite say that about the 140.

OP, I don't know if the screw patterns are the same. The heel is the same but since the 180 toe is 1-piece and the 140 toe is a winged design I don't know if they match. I could have a look tonight I guess...
 
screw patterns are the same.

What the DIN has to do with it is this: The closer to the end of the range (max or min) of the spring you get, the more likely the spring is to be inconsistent with the expected force. Especially over time. It doesn't guarantee it will ever be inconsistent, but the chance increases. Why not ride a binding it which you are minimizing the chance that things could become inconsistent?

durability wise: ive ridden multiple pairs of rossi/look bindings. 140's and 180's have the exact same heel/heel mount pattern. The only difference is the toe. Both toes are bomber, just with one being heavier.

If you can easily swap the fks 180 for a 140 do it. If not, its not a huge deal. I am NOT trying to say its mandatory you switch to the 140 or that switching will fix your problem. Im also NOT saying that the DIN is guaranteed to be related to your problem. It is just a possibility.

 
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