Having issues with quality on a T2i

B

blatt

Active member
If you watch my 2 edits, There's a very major difference in quality in my opinion.

I dont know what's causing the change in quality. In one edit I did remove magic lantern but I dont think that changed quality. Other than that I used the same system and If I'm correct both were shot in raw format with 1280x720 resolution. Other than that I have no idea what might have altered the quality.

If anyone has some ideas on what caused this change in quality, I'd be much interested to hear about them. Maybe I'm just overthinking to though. +k for advice
 
i have heard people refer to the H.264 videos that come out of the camera as 'raw.' not in the sense that they are RAW but in the sense that they are unaltered and haven't been through the prores process or anything
 
If you're stopping down your lens a ton for the sunny day, you will lose sharpness from the lens due to diffraction.

What specific quality issues are you looking at? It really could have been a ton of things in your workflow that changed it.
 
I don't think so.
Correct me if Im wrong but wouldn't raw be 18k? I think I'm wrong, but would raw video be uncompressed and basically use the entire sensor. Basically the quality of photos but at what ever frame rate?
Or is RAW just no compression.

 
sorry for dub post but I had my aperture pretty high up on the sunny day if I remember correctly. and quality-wise Im just looking at the definition. the images are alot more crisp in the first edit rather than the second.

Would it help for me to convert to prores422 in mpeg streamclip before editing?
 
RAW means uncompressed in-camera, meaning raw sensor data. DSLRs definitely don't shoot RAW, in fact their shitty codec is quite the opposite.
 
You should always export h.264. And converting to ProRes 422 will actually harm your footage, because it will process the footage with color space which exceeds DSLR footage, causing banding. At most you should convert to ProRes LT.

Lenses are their sharpest around the f/5.6 mark, so if you stopped down to f/16 in sunlight, your images are going to be softer. The best thing you can do in that weather is shoot with a polarizer to bring out snow detail and color, and aim for around f/5.6. Use an ND if needed.
 
One more thing- if you don't crush your blacks, you will be able to stop down a little more, which will give you more snow and shadow detail.
 
'Raw' video format on a digital platform, in the most real sense, can only be achieved through prosumer cameras like RED ect.
If you use a canon HDSLR you can actually pull good results from the shitty codec if you use 'Ultra flat' picture styles along with some good noise reduction software and grading.
 
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