Grinding skis straight from the ski press

zulis

Member
Hey guys! Quick question. Just received two pairs with freshly pressed home made skis for grinding. I was wondering What would be your recomendations of steps needed to be done removing extra epoxy, make ski flat, getting structure and sharepnins edges? Can see already with eye that the base is not perfectly flat. Maybe someone have done home made skis before? Are the steps the same as any other alpine ski or is there some specific tricks?

Using Wintersteiger Sigma SBI machine.
 
From experience of finishing hand-built prototypes, I'd recommend removing as much excess epoxy as you can by hand with a sander/sandpaper before putting it through the machine, otherwise, you'll just gum up the belt with epoxy. although the main belt runs on a rubber wheel you will affect the geometry of the ski on the parts not covered with epoxy trying to remove the excess as the resin will be harder than the base plastic.

once you have all the excess off by hand, get a sense of how truly badly convex and/or concave the ski is using a true bar and giving them an initial (auto-feed) belt grind with a fairly worn belt.

If the grind is not reaching a large proportion of the skis and the inconsistency visible with the true bar is large i'd advise against just doing multiple passes until they're flat as you could grind away a lot of the base thickness in high spots, making them more vulnerable to core shot and generally reducing their working life.

I'd approach them accepting you probably wont get them completely flat and grind them with a combination of multiple low-med grind full-length passes and some open facing to grind the parts not getting hit with the full passes.

If they're particularly concave i'd avoid putting them over the stone altogether or with low pressure as you'll just channel the stone out with the edges to get a structure, either ruining the quality of other ski services afterward or creating a lot of facing off work on the stone to get it back to flat, which when a new stone costs thousands probably isn't worth it for a couple of pairs.

As for the edges, get as much off manually as you can and then grind them as normal, the belts are relatively cheap and sidewall material is soft compared to steel and so is going to grind away, removing inconsistencies in the edge arc/finishing
 
Thank you [tag=249118]@FaunaSkis[/tag] for great tips! Will use your advice for next pair of skis and I did remove the most of extra epoxy manually. Skis turned out good. One pair was built more precise then other (Twistdem skis do this ski builder course, so people can build they own skis), so as you can see on one of them base have pressed in bubble in the base and also tip have been pressed noticeably more on one corner.

Took me some hours but very pleased with my work.

1054854.jpeg
 
14478157:zulis said:
Thank you [tag=249118]@FaunaSkis[/tag] for great tips! Will use your advice for next pair of skis and I did remove the most of extra epoxy manually. Skis turned out good. One pair was built more precise then other (Twistdem skis do this ski builder course, so people can build they own skis), so as you can see on one of them base have pressed in bubble in the base and also tip have been pressed noticeably more on one corner.

Took me some hours but very pleased with my work.

View attachment 1054854

holy shit those look good! really good tune ??

can you upload more pics of the skis? rocker profile and stuff like that!
 
14478274:kalle. said:
holy shit those look good! really good tune ??

can you upload more pics of the skis? rocker profile and stuff like that!

Here are few pictures with skis. No hate but seriously Faction skis could take some pointers how to make simple graphic that doesn’t include putting flying hotdogs on your skis. Those white ones with lead sticker are my little art project I’m working on. Had to repaint prodigies cause graphics hurt my eyes.

1054932.jpeg

1054933.jpeg

1054934.jpeg

p.s. I did not fuck up mount on the skis. They were like that before. Not sure why they drilled the holes twice but heard they will set in quiverkillers.
 
14478157:zulis said:
Thank you [tag=249118]@FaunaSkis[/tag] for great tips! Will use your advice for next pair of skis and I did remove the most of extra epoxy manually. Skis turned out good. One pair was built more precise then other (Twistdem skis do this ski builder course, so people can build they own skis), so as you can see on one of them base have pressed in bubble in the base and also tip have been pressed noticeably more on one corner.

Took me some hours but very pleased with my work.

View attachment 1054854

they came out really nice, good work!

Did the pressed skis come with a protective film/tape or anything on the bases? If not, to save you work on the finishing you could request Twistem put tape on the base before pressing, its also good for keeping the dust etc off the base when they're being cut out, saves you having to use base cleaner (which i should have suggested you do after you remove the excess epoxy).
 
14479305:zulis said:
Tromsø! Think I met you briefly when you were filming street with Siver few seasons ago.

Noo, it cant be. Never filmed street with siver. Only skied Geilo.

tromsø? You know Torden?
 
14479306:lil.Boye said:
Noo, it cant be. Never filmed street with siver. Only skied Geilo.

tromsø? You know Torden?

Sorry, I tought you are Rafael. Yes, I do know Torden. He is unfortunetly not skiing as much anymore. More into climbing. Always welcome to visit T-town!
 
14479307:zulis said:
Sorry, I tought you are Rafael. Yes, I do know Torden. He is unfortunetly not skiing as much anymore. More into climbing. Always welcome to visit T-town!

nice! i'm working in Kvitfjell this season, hit my line if you decide to take the trip!
 
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