FKS bindings

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plankpusher

New member
Hey I bought my park and powder skis together along with two sets of fks bindings but the shop put the fks 180s on my park skis an the 140s on my powder!!! Is there any way I can change them using the same holes??? Even if it's just swapping the toe piece
 
Did you tell the shop guys they fucked up? Most legit shops are super helpful and will do a lot to try to fix a problem.
 
Ordered online bro, there in America an I'm in New Zealand. Also I used them a few times so they're not going to take back!
 
I'm sure you can switch them out and use the same holes. Maybe install binding inserts into the holes first.
 
Pretty sure the 14 and 18 toe piece have the same screw pattern. You should be fine to just unscrew and swap over

There would be no point just swaping the toes round, if your going to swap, do the heel aswell.

aslong as you take care unscrewing you shouldnt need to use inserts etc.
 
Cheers boys I'm going to measure it up tomo, there's no need to change the heel piece as there identical, apart from the brakes because I had to order slimmer ones for my park skis!
 
Except the DIN range...

If you want to trade the heels without unscrewing them from the skis you can fully remove the lever part of the binding by unscrewing the forward pressure screws (two phillips head screws in the back of the "arms" when the heel piece is up) and just swap those around.
 
Yup, You can certainly do this. If removing the toes or any screws use a posi drive screw driver and make sure to use some wood glue or equivalent to seal the holes when switching them around. Also be careful not to strip the holes too
 
Why the fuck would anyone do this?

Just leave them there. If you REALLY want them to be on the opposite sticks, just take them off, use the existing holes as a guide to redrill for Binding Freedom inserts, install and WHAM- you're all set.

Don't go taking apart your bindings if you are asking if the holes are the same. They are, I'm just saying that's not something you personally should be doing if you don't know that. Inserts are easy, playing engineer with binding parts is not.
 
Because it's about a million times easier than switching the brakes...

He wants 18 DIN bindings on his powder skis (wide brakes), but they're on his park skis (narrow brakes), the easiest way to switch the heels is do it this way. Obviously the easiest thing to do is keep the heel pieces where they are, but if he REALLY wants to switch them there is another option. It's way easier to fuck up a remount in the same holes than switch the heel levers of the FKS bindings...
 
Just swapping and reusing the holes should work... HOWEVER, there is a higher risk of spinning a screw, and you must re-epoxy when you do it.

But why not just ride them as is?
 
Do not epoxy. Can't stress that enough. If you break a brake and need to take the heel off there is a far higher chance of destroying the hole if you epoxy the screw in.
 
This x100, the reason you use wood glue and not epoxy is because the glue is not to hold the screw in but more to cause a seal (hense why people use wood glue which is super flexible) epoxy will crack when flexed.

but yer if you want 18 din pow planks, just swap the bindings round.
 
On another note, how long did it take to save up ~$2k+ on skis/bindings? Talk about an expensive purchase. You'll have those FKS's forever though, worthy investment :)
 
If you dont know how to do it just take it to a ski shop and have them deal with it.... wayyyy easier and less likely to mess your shit up
 
I have never had an issue with it. You have a much lower bond strength between the screw and epoxy than you do the wood and epoxy, so the epoxy stays on the wood. In regards to glue, glue is water soluble so it doesn't actually form a seal if you skis get wet everyday.

Just my opinion. Whatever works.
 
Your not trying to seal the hole with the glue all you really use the glue for is to help almost lube the screw into the hole. If the screw is put in correctly it will completely seal the hole anyway. Epoxy is just bad news for binding mounts and should not be used.
 
You're right. Norris is wrong. Switch the toe pieces but leave the heel baseplates and switch the dildos.
 
I personally think he should either a) fkn leave 'em. or b) bring them back and let the shop deal with it. I never pay $ and accept headaches and neither should anyone else. All this talk of dildo swapping is fkn too much haha
 
Shouldn't you be skiing at the same DIN regardless? I don't see why it would matter which binding is on which ski (besides the toe piece on the 18).
 
Not really, My pow skis have DINs set higher as I prefer not to pop out on high consequence lines above rocks and cliffs while my park skis are hopefull set low enough that I pop out befoe breaking a knee.
 
Me and a few thousand DIY'ers disagree with you. A flexible marine epoxy ups the retention strength a fair bit, and still has the same lubey affect on the holes while permanently sealing the wood within the hole, as well as the surface interface with the screw.
 
I ski an 8 on FKS for park and a 9 on Barons for pow. I find I ski a setting higher for pow, I'm a bit more aggressive and tend to release easier than I'd want too on higher consequence lines and hits.
 
OP, I take it you bought two different brake widths on the 14 and 18 (to fit your park ski waist and your powder ski waist). If you got the 14 with the wider width and the 18 with the narrower width it could definitely explain why they mounted the bindings like they did.Best advice is to take care and really talk things over with the tech who is mounting your bindings.
 
Keep doing it if you want but you really don't need to. If it was the way to go shops would all be doing it and manufactures would recommend it.
 
Shops don't do it because of two things:

1: cost. Wood glue is much cheaper than epoxy.

2: work. Epoxy must be mixed, and the batches only last 20 minutes or so before they begin to set, so its dumb for shops to be using it.

Long story short, doing it yourself gives you the choice.
 
you could use the same holes bro but it sounds like a headache. Take it to a shop. And aren't they glued aswell? So you will need to glue then after the swap. I know my pivots are glued to my skis
 
Manufacturers provide glue for shops so it's not a cost issue.

And we constantly mix up export to do repairs.

Overall if expoxy was the best glue to use all shops would be its unneeded and can in fact lead to more problems in the future.

I'm not saying don't do it if you want I'm just giving you the reasons it is not done by shops who mount multiple skis every day.
 
Nice one for advice boys... Yeah there's no way I'm going to DIY it! I'll take them to the shop in town just wanted to go In an know what I wa talking about...a bell end! Yeah my DIN is higher on my pow skis too plus the toe releases aswel as the heel on the 140s that's why there the park binding choice! An yeah I'll have to swap the heel piece to or the 'dildo' hahaha
 
The 18din FKS binding toe piece releases 180 degrees just like the 140. The only difference is about 3 lbs of weight.
 
the 14 has the rollers to help with the semi active wings to reduce friction. The entire toe piece on the 18 rotates to accomplish the same task, but at higher forces without compromising strength and durability(like you get with a marker binding... cough cough).

The only advantage of the FKS over the PX bindings is in weight... The PX bindings have the same elasticity, heel retention, and durability, while having easily swappable brakes. The FKS also rip out easier due to the smaller screw footprint which increases torque load on the screws.
 
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