Film (Analog) Photography Thread

13371454:JakeSmith said:
I am considering trading my OM-1n for a OM-2 or maybe a OM-2s. Does anyone have any experience with these? What are the pros and cons of an electric shutter vs the mechanical one in the om-1? Did quality go down much as the OM line progressed?
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From what I understand, the OM2's shutter is still very good - similar to the Nikon FE, and other electronically timed shutter cameras of the day. If you want to use Aperture Priority, then the OM2 is the way to go, but if you're still perfectly happy with the all-manual elegance of the OM1, and won't use the AE, then there's no real reason to switch.

Quality never went down, really.. it was mostly just more gizmos were added in, such as program modes and better metering. They were all sold as professional grade, so olympus always kinda threw their best work into them.
 
The only thing in basic metered cameras dat deteriorates over time is the capacitor. The shutter wil still fire but for the OM2 only on 1/60 or B since it's not entirely independent of the electronic meter, still better then Minolta's, those will not even fire the shutter with a dead battery/broken cap.
 
Oh I forgot to add that Iam considering a switch because I hate buying and using the 1.35v wein cell batteries.

Does anyone know about the adapter that is made to use 1.5v silver oxide batteries?
 
I've never worried about it and always just compensated for it with ISO... or just bought the wein cells.

...how are you even going through batteries so often, anyway
 
13372935:omnidata said:
Inferior Chinese cells can die in a day without use.

Not even joking.
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I've never bought them from chinese ebay sites. I'd rather save myself the hassle and go to the battery store.
 
13371990:DingoSean said:
I've never worried about it and always just compensated for it with ISO... or just bought the wein cells.

...how are you even going through batteries so often, anyway
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I'm not really going through a ton of batteries, only 3 in about a year, but comparatively with my Pentax ME, I am still on my first pair of silver oxide batteries and those have been going for over a year. It could be from shooting in really cold temps at high elevation possibly.
 
13372940:JakeSmith said:
I'm not really going through a ton of batteries, only 3 in about a year, but comparatively with my Pentax ME, I am still on my first pair of silver oxide batteries and those have been going for over a year. It could be from shooting in really cold temps at high elevation possibly.
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Possibly...

Still you shouldn't be going through so many. Not that it's REALLY that frustrating though. I mean, I have killed my FE twice in the last month by leaving it 'On'.
 
So looking for a little advice.

I've been shooting with an AE-1 for the last year pretty much and feel like I have been getting pretty good results but would like something a little better.

What would be the next best camera to "upgrade" to. I would prefer to stick with canon because I already have a couple of FD mount lenses and various other canon attachments.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
13373070:Blurst said:
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Nikon F5/6, Leica M's, Hasseblad's etc...

The AE-1 is essentially the best usable FD lens camera, the T90 is a tank with more options, but it lacks charm and is clunky.
 
13373900:omnidata said:
Nikon F5/6, Leica M's, Hasseblad's etc...

The AE-1 is essentially the best usable FD lens camera, the T90 is a tank with more options, but it lacks charm and is clunky.
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Thats kind of what I thought. The T90 looks like shit haha which as shitty as it sounds does take away from the experience as a whole.
 
Yeah, honestly, the AE-1 is sorta the way to go. The F-bodies were all clunky, full manual, and didn't really offer a whole lot, the AT-1 and the A-1 either give you less, or not much more than the AE-1, and the T-bodies are plastic and lame. the T90 is too bulky and it's LCD dies on you most of the time.

Strangely enough, I kinda like the T-60 if you can find it. It's actually a cosina (and is basically the Canon version of the Nikon FM-10) but you can get them for real cheap, and they have Aperture priority and manual modes - which are really all you need since P and Tv both kinda suck.
 
Just cleaned up an old nikon F my grandfather got in the 60's that was pretty much never used. Really excited to use it but scared I'm going to screw up somehow.
 
13377318:Bogez said:
Just cleaned up an old nikon F my grandfather got in the 60's that was pretty much never used. Really excited to use it but scared I'm going to screw up somehow.
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I refer any and all questions you might have to omnidata, since he's all about his F.
 
13377318:Bogez said:
Just cleaned up an old nikon F my grandfather got in the 60's that was pretty much never used. Really excited to use it but scared I'm going to screw up somehow.
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Simple prism or metered prism? It's a tank, unless you fuck up the mirror by using silly penetrating lenses or touch the titanium foil shutter with too much force it should work in any temperature, weather etc...

13377334:DingoSean said:
I refer any and all questions you might have to omnidata, since he's all about his F.
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We even sleep together.
 
13377364:omnidata said:
Simple prism or metered prism? It's a tank, unless you fuck up the mirror by using silly penetrating lenses or touch the titanium foil shutter with too much force it should work in any temperature, weather etc...

We even sleep together.
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Metered prism, but 2 of them. One that was on the camera with a round nickel sized lens on the front and a little manual flag. And one in a box that appears to never be used. I think the box said photomic tn.

Are the meters worth using? I don't have batteries for them and I have a light meter from the 50's that is fun to use so I might just not even find batteries for it.
 
13377424:Bogez said:
Metered prism, but 2 of them. One that was on the camera with a round nickel sized lens on the front and a little manual flag. And one in a box that appears to never be used. I think the box said photomic tn.

Are the meters worth using? I don't have batteries for them and I have a light meter from the 50's that is fun to use so I might just not even find batteries for it.
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If you go for the authentic feeling, then by all means use them but since they are both uncoupled and not very accurate (the tn is a bit better since it's actually reading from the prism instead of just in the general direction such as the 'flag' switch older one) They are also big and cumbersome, too bad loose simple ones are almost as expensive as an entire F.

Just pop in a roll of Tri-X and go out and shoot, fuck metering.
 
13404895:Han.Solo said:
http://boulder.craigslist.org/ele/4961322075.html

Don't know much about cameras, but that looks like a steal
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yeah it's got multiple settings so you can't go too far wrong
 
Thanks guys, much appreciated! Almost all of it is on ektar but there are a few portras. Also, there's one 4x5 shot and the rest is from my hasselblad.
 
Hoping to shoot my first film (aside from those disposable kodaks my family would always buy when I was a kid) next week! Excited to see what happens. Just wondering what kind of film you guys like to use. I'm shooting with my grandpa's 35mm Nikon FM that's at least twice my age.
 
13423923:john18061806 said:
Hoping to shoot my first film (aside from those disposable kodaks my family would always buy when I was a kid) next week! Excited to see what happens. Just wondering what kind of film you guys like to use. I'm shooting with my grandpa's 35mm Nikon FM that's at least twice my age.
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What do you think?

hEMT9ns.jpg
 
13423966:Laurent. said:
What do you think?
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I was planning on buying ISO 400 fujifilm but a better question would be what to avoid. I've learned that being naive is the downfall of any investment. Even a microscopic one like a roll of film. I've wasted my money on a lot of music equipment due to incompatibility and poor quality, it's just a terrible feeling knowing that you could've put your money to better use.
 
13423994:john18061806 said:
I was planning on buying ISO 400 fujifilm but a better question would be what to avoid. I've learned that being naive is the downfall of any investment. Even a microscopic one like a roll of film. I've wasted my money on a lot of music equipment due to incompatibility and poor quality, it's just a terrible feeling knowing that you could've put your money to better use.
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You can't go wrong with glorious Tri-X or many films in general. But they all have their own learning curve and benefits.

I'd say for the first few rolls get some cheap colour Fuji 200/400, they can be developed in C-41 which most places can do for a few bucks, just enjoy the process, you will make mistakes but it's better if it happens on a 2 buck roll of Fuji Superia.

If you want black and white: Tri-X or it's brother from another mother: Ilford HP5. B&W is usually more expensive to get processed but easier done yourself then C-41. Those two films are loved because of the sexy grain, hard contrast and ridiculous ability to be shot at ISO 25-12800 with ease (do note that pushing/pulling that far requires some developing magic). Also it's reasonably cheap and easy to get hold off.

Other films are for the future and by then you will know.

Don't buy Velvia or other films that have little exposure latitude, or strange low iso panchromatic films that perish if they aren't developed within a day after exposure, then again these films are also usually priced higher and thus easy to spot.
 
If your looking for something better than drug store film, Kodak Ektar is great and its relatively not too expensive. I would also take a lot at Kentmere (Similar to Ilford HP5) and Arista (Literally Fomapan) B&W films, they are cheaper versions of common film stocks.
 
Just bought some cheap 400 fujifilm to start with. I'll definitely check out (and possibly buy) some of the films you guys mentioned. I'm under a huge time crunch because the camera originally belonged to my grandpa who died just before I was born, he had a huge passion for photography, and with my grandma- who I rarely see- coming to town I thought it would be nice to surprise her with a few prints (especially since she thinks the cam is obsolete).
 
13424622:john18061806 said:
Just bought some cheap 400 fujifilm to start with. I'll definitely check out (and possibly buy) some of the films you guys mentioned. I'm under a huge time crunch because the camera originally belonged to my grandpa who died just before I was born, he had a huge passion for photography, and with my grandma- who I rarely see- coming to town I thought it would be nice to surprise her with a few prints (especially since she thinks the cam is obsolete).
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im a big fan of portra 400, you can get some ok deals on 5 packs on amazon.
 
13425065:jca said:
im a big fan of portra 400, you can get some ok deals on 5 packs on amazon.
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Nobody can scan Portra properly. Latitude is pretty poor, good when used properly, anustart when not.
 
13425097:Laurent. said:
Nobody can scan Portra properly. Latitude is pretty poor, good when used properly, anustart when not.
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Umm, Portar 400 is magic film, you can shoot that stuff +10 stops and still get an image. I would also argue Portra that is one of the easiest and most consistent films to scan.
 
13425164:zbphoto said:
Umm, Portar 400 is magic film, you can shoot that stuff +10 stops and still get an image. I would also argue Portra that is one of the easiest and most consistent films to scan.
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I'm drunk, meant latitude is good...welp.

/log-out..
 
Hey there, I have a quick question. Are there any places in Canada that offer cheap high quality scanning?

I'll be in Montreal this summer and I was wondering whether it might be worth bringing a whole pile of film to get scanned, it costs like 35$ a roll over here :(
 
Yeah Montreal has a lot of good labs, Boreal or borealis is really good. I also know Mcgill has a photo club with a Pakon.
 
Next week I'm going to try to shoot a some stars and/or northern lights on film. Going to use my dslr to figure out exposure and then add a few stops from there. I've currently got Fujifilm superia 400 in there. Anyone tried this?
 
13431329:plorr said:
Sadly, selling my Mamiya 6
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I'm seriously considering getting back into MF once I earn some money from my summer internship. I may or may not be interested in this.
 
Anyone have a recommendation for a rangefinder camera? Price isn't a huge issue but I'm not paying M3 money. Yet. I was considering a Voigtlander Bessa, Yashica Electro 35, or maybe an Olympus 35RC. If anyone has some recommendations or anecdotes, they'd be much appreciated.
 
13439519:SupremeDeity said:
Anyone have a recommendation for a rangefinder camera? Price isn't a huge issue but I'm not paying M3 money. Yet. I was considering a Voigtlander Bessa, Yashica Electro 35, or maybe an Olympus 35RC. If anyone has some recommendations or anecdotes, they'd be much appreciated.
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Canonet QL17, Olympus XA, so many choices.
 
13439519:SupremeDeity said:
Anyone have a recommendation for a rangefinder camera? Price isn't a huge issue but I'm not paying M3 money. Yet. I was considering a Voigtlander Bessa, Yashica Electro 35, or maybe an Olympus 35RC. If anyone has some recommendations or anecdotes, they'd be much appreciated.
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I would get a canonet giii ql17 if your looking to try out a rangefinder. Avoid the Electro 35, Bessa's are okay but you might as well just get a user M2 or M4(p/-2) for not that much more.
 
Iv got a canon ef camera and the red led light stays on even when the camera is turned off. anyone have any insight into this? i think it's meant to flash as an indicator for the self timer mode.
 
13439519:SupremeDeity said:
Anyone have a recommendation for a rangefinder camera? Price isn't a huge issue but I'm not paying M3 money. Yet. I was considering a Voigtlander Bessa, Yashica Electro 35, or maybe an Olympus 35RC. If anyone has some recommendations or anecdotes, they'd be much appreciated.
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I have had a bessa, 35sp (similar to RC) and electro 35. Electro 35 has nice glass but is huge and got boring because it's aperture priority. 35sp is nice but has a strange metering system. I still have my bessa and I really like it, and it's nice to have interchangeable lenses compared to your other choices. I found a bessa/lens combo on eBay and sold the lens to where the body only cost me like $80.
 
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