Do that many newschoolers really detune their ski's?

I slightly detuned my edges for the summer, as I had a brand new pair of skis 2 days before the season ended, and a PVC summer setup. Needless to say, it is not a good combination.

Either way, weather you detune them by taking a file/gummystone/curb to them, or detune them by hitting rails for a few days in the park, it will have the same effect regardless.
 
Any ski of mine thats going to come in contact with metal gets a detune. It helps the edge last longer and prevents catching on rails.
 
I normally ride on my new skis for about 10 times out before I take them on rails. I will use my old park skis for park until that 10 days is up
 
Yes, yes it does. Obviously you've never done it. They detune enough to where you won't catch an edge but can still get edge to edge and carve well on groomers
 
I dont see how a soft groomer is going to do anything against your steel edges unless your hitting rocks and ice.
 
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It only takes a few catches on a rail to realize the benefits of a detune. Your edges and your body will thank you. Then if it's a fully cambered ski I'll do a small, smooth detune on the tips and tails, but I haven't ridden or owned a fully cambered ski in a while.
 
Lol, I'm going to take a guess a say that you use the same razor all the time because what is soft cheek hair and skin going to do to a steel blade? right?
 
Skiing groomers really won't detune your edge at all. It may dull them off ever so slightly but it certainly won't be detuning them especially after 10 days.
 
As the great Aristotle once said, "thou who dose not detune their ski is a shit cunt". No joke, that was a loosely translated phrase regularly repeated in ancient texts.
 
I always detune underfoot, but what's the reason behind a slight detune on the tips and tail on a cambered ski? Reduce hooking?
 
I do a very aggressive detune underfoot and another very aggressive detune in the rockered sections of my ski. I keep my camber contact points pretty sharp. Not crazy sharp, but pretty sharp. I call it kind of a "progressive all mountain" tune. It kicks ass
 
True, but a nose butter is really the most extreme example of when your tips can hook. I doubt an ever so slight detune won't significantly alleviate that hooking when buttering. Besides, I know it's common practice to detune non park skis as well, like you regular old groomer skis, and they ain't buttering nothing. Is it more to reduce hooking or grabbiness at the initiation and exit of a turn?
 
I would have to say no, Even in the most extreme of turns, the edges around your tips/tails are still not going to be in contact with the snow. I would assume with regular groomer skis its probably just to have something less to cut your self on, although I could be wrong on that. I would however think that if you did a good round out on the tips tails a few inches out it would do wonders to reduce your hooking on butters.
 
Got a brand new pair of skis at the beginning of this season and rode three days without touching the edges. then got a super light detune from my homie and it made a world of different. less catching and simply smoother slides on everything. don't knock it till you try it
 
OK, related question:

Is base beveling really that important? I was planning on not getting a base beveler and just using a 0°x0° edge angle. I have a OneBallJay Wonton edge file that has 90 and 88 degree side edge angle options, so I have that at my disposal. I would use a 0°x0° on both my park-allmtn skis and my allmtn-pow skis. I am a experienced skier over the whole mountain and I do appreciate an edge that can carve well.

Also, on my Surface One Life skis, should I detune all of the rocker length on tip and tail or should I just detune around the contact points like I would on a fully cambered ski?
 
Yeh, I heavily detune mine underfoot when I get them. Usually just go in to a ski shop and use the belt sander. I thought everyone did a fairly heavy detune on all their park skis.
 
Wonder why you get edge cracks underfoot? The edge heats up while sliding on a rail, then is quickly cooled when it comes back to the snow. This causes the metal to become brittle over time as it is heat cycled hundreds of times. Then, as it becomes more brittle you land on a rail in the same spot causing the edge to crack.

This is also why you do not quench welds with water, the sudden temperature change makes the weld brittle and prone to cracking.

Rounding or even mildly detuning the edge underfoot will not completely eradicate the problem but will make the edges last way longer. I have hit long (60ft+) rails with a 2.5 degree bevel and actually had the edge "blue" from heat discoloration. The edge eventually cracked in that spot. I doubt it would have blued with a properly detuned edge.
 
For rail and box riders I recommend a long 2 degree base beve over all.

A long bevel is when you bevel into the base about the thickness of a average edge.

Then a further rounding (detuning) of the edge just under the binding region.

The non-contact portions of the tips and tails are also to be rounded.

A 3 to 4 degree side bevel with this will still allow for awesome carves and no edge catching on a rail or box.

 
I got new skis this year and used a gummy stone to very slightly round out the edges under foot to hopefully prevent edge damage. It's great for in the park but fucking horrible anywhere else because I miss my edges when I'm outside the park. Kinda sucks because I have a one ski quiver, so when I go out west this year my carving ability is going to be subpar.
 
Well for me it dulls them enough to where I never catch on rails and I can still carve the shit out of them
 
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