Climbing ATC's

Wheaty214

Active member
I currently have a basic ATC from theclymb.com but I want to get a better one, preferably with teeth, so I don't have to strain myself when people suck at climbing and are continuously falling.

I'm willing to spend up to $30, and I'm not going to buy a grigri or however it's spelled. What do you guys use?

I'll mostly be using it indoors, every once and a while outside.

+k for suggestions.

Much appreciated.
 
Petzl Reverso 4

But if I were just climbing indoors and on single pitch sport routes I'd use a GriGri.
 
Black diamond ATC Guide would be a great choice especially if you ever plan on doing more technical types of climbing. very versatile
 
13412799:shotvet said:
Black diamond ATC Guide would be a great choice especially if you ever plan on doing more technical types of climbing. very versatile

^ Yup. Gots the "teeth" you're looking for and allows for a top belay which can be clutch
 
13412799:shotvet said:
Black diamond ATC Guide would be a great choice especially if you ever plan on doing more technical types of climbing. very versatile

Wish I would have gotten one of these instead of there normal one. Didn't think I would ever need something with the Guide loop since I never planned on doing multipitch climbs, but now I'm wishing I had just in case I would need it for something.

Small threadjack: I want to get more into sport climbing with a few friends, we are all pretty much learning together. We all took a class at our climbing gym, but they really don't have any sport routes so we will mostly be learning outdoors by ourselves. We have all belayed indoor lead climbs with a normal atc, but would you recommend getting a grigri so we have the extra backup just in case. The only thing I am worried about with the grigri is just getting used to it since we are all used to using normal atcs.
 
13413105:TOAST. said:
Wish I would have gotten one of these instead of there normal one. Didn't think I would ever need something with the Guide loop since I never planned on doing multipitch climbs, but now I'm wishing I had just in case I would need it for something.

Small threadjack: I want to get more into sport climbing with a few friends, we are all pretty much learning together. We all took a class at our climbing gym, but they really don't have any sport routes so we will mostly be learning outdoors by ourselves. We have all belayed indoor lead climbs with a normal atc, but would you recommend getting a grigri so we have the extra backup just in case. The only thing I am worried about with the grigri is just getting used to it since we are all used to using normal atcs.

If you go for a grigri, make sure you learn the proper technique for lead belaying, then practice. Practice a lot.

For Giggles:

 
13413105:TOAST. said:
Small threadjack: I want to get more into sport climbing with a few friends, we are all pretty much learning together. We all took a class at our climbing gym, but they really don't have any sport routes so we will mostly be learning outdoors by ourselves. We have all belayed indoor lead climbs with a normal atc, but would you recommend getting a grigri so we have the extra backup just in case. The only thing I am worried about with the grigri is just getting used to it since we are all used to using normal atcs.

Imho it's best to learn the basics and get the basics (brake hand, lowering, etc) on a manul device with a backup belayer behind you so that braking becomes instinctual and so you don't develop pulling on the strand above the device. If you want more info an opinions, visit Mountain Project. There are plenty of 35yo dek jockeys who wish they were outside to tell you more about this :). While having a brake assist advice is good, it should never be relied on. Stay safe and have a blast out there!

OP, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is simple like the atc, but lighter (I think?) and has teeth. I jump off of plenty of shit with a single strand in that thing and with barely any pressure on the brake hand it stops super fast. Tons of power, albeit a bit choppy if you rap on the tooth side, but for hangdogging noobz or jumping off stuff it's great. If ou ever do more technical stuff or multipitch get the Black Diamond Atc guide, its the same but you can belay a second (or a 2nd and a third) on an autoblock when you lead. Good luck!
 
13412799:shotvet said:
Black diamond ATC Guide would be a great choice especially if you ever plan on doing more technical types of climbing. very versatile

This is exactly what you want.
 
13413105:TOAST. said:
Wish I would have gotten one of these instead of there normal one. Didn't think I would ever need something with the Guide loop since I never planned on doing multipitch climbs, but now I'm wishing I had just in case I would need it for something.

Small threadjack: I want to get more into sport climbing with a few friends, we are all pretty much learning together. We all took a class at our climbing gym, but they really don't have any sport routes so we will mostly be learning outdoors by ourselves. We have all belayed indoor lead climbs with a normal atc, but would you recommend getting a grigri so we have the extra backup just in case. The only thing I am worried about with the grigri is just getting used to it since we are all used to using normal atcs.

Eh I wouldn't really suggest it. It's a lot of money that could go somewhere else. to start of climbing outdoors just get on a easy pitch, and practice everything. Practice clipping and belaying and setting stuff up, then have people double check everything.....you will quickly get better and it will all come second hand. Make sure not to back clip!!

Honestly i I don't like a grigri. It does the same thing that a belayer should do, and if I need a machine to be backing up my belay, I shouldn't be trusting them to belay me. Nothing wrong with them really, just not worth the money IMO.
 
Back
Top