Best First MTB Upgrades

I'd look around for a nicely spec'd used bike at the point you're at. By the time you buy a fork, wheelset, groupset and brakes you're going to spend way more than a comparable bike is worth.

In the meantime, enjoy your whip. Go tubeless if you can and upgrade as things break.
 
Be careful replacing the fork as it can change the geometry of the bike. Getting one with a lockout will help a lot with climbing hills though, especially since its a hard tail.

It looks like those are wire pull disc brakes, upgrading to hydraulic will be a big first upgrade.

Then I would upgrade your derailleurs and shifter to Shimano XT.

Dont bother with tubeless unless you are planning on racing, its not worth the cost of new rims and tires etc.
 
Tires are 100% the first upgrade you should make and then fitment stuff like different bar and stem, but anything beyond that you would be better served saving money toward a more capable bike and riding the shit out of the bike you have until you have enough saved and you can truly say yours skills have surpassed the capability of your CDale
 
14138537:Biffbarf said:
I'd look around for a nicely spec'd used bike at the point you're at. By the time you buy a fork, wheelset, groupset and brakes you're going to spend way more than a comparable bike is worth.

In the meantime, enjoy your whip. Go tubeless if you can and upgrade as things break.
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I don't want to start looking for a new bike for a while. I just bought this bike brand new last year and it's is amazing condition. I was only really concerned about getting a fork and tires. The SR Suntours are cheap and really soft and the tires are cheap and already wearing down. I like the groupset and gearing and its great for right now. I'm also planning on having it for a while, but things change so idk. Thanks for the advice.
 
14138556:No.Quarter said:
Tires are 100% the first upgrade you should make and then fitment stuff like different bar and stem, but anything beyond that you would be better served saving money toward a more capable bike and riding the shit out of the bike you have until you have enough saved and you can truly say yours skills have surpassed the capability of your CDale
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Thanks for the advice. I plan on getting out on trails more this and riding a lot. Upgrading the tires that came with the bike would help a lot on trail.
 
Arranged from most to least important

1. 1x drive train (just get a narrow wide sprocket)

2. GOOD hydraulic disc brakes

3. New knobbier tires w tubeless kit

Edit: I bought a bike very similar to OP's back in 2016. In about a year I managed to destroy the wheels and fork; rather than upgrading the bike I just bought a used stump jumper for about 2 grand. I would try and save as much money as possible for your next bike and beat the hell out of the bike you have.

**This post was edited on May 8th 2020 at 6:33:00pm
 
14138553:SuspiciousFish said:
Dont bother with tubeless unless you are planning on racing, its not worth the cost of new rims and tires etc.
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I meant to say go tubeless if his wheels/tires can be ran tubeless, else you are correct.
 
14138562:armchair_skier said:
Arranged from most to least important

1. 1x drive train (just get a narrow wide sprocket)

2. GOOD hydraulic disc brakes

3. New knobbier tires w tubeless kit

Edit: I bought a bike very similar to OP's back in 2016. In about a year I managed to destroy the wheels and fork; rather than upgrading the bike I just bought a used stump jumper for about 2 grand. I would try and save as much money as possible for your next bike and beat the hell out of the bike you have.

**This post was edited on May 8th 2020 at 6:33:00pm
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This. I cannot emphasize enough how important a 1x is. When I was demoing bikes to decide which one to buy I rode a 2x and dropped the chain 3 times in 1 day. I have never dropped a chain on my 1x in 2 years. If you ride anything rough or hit jumps at all I couldn't comprehend riding without a 1x.

Hydraulic brakes and good tires would be nice too.

The cost of a good fork is not worth it for that bike imo, unless your fork is way too soft for your weight because soft suspension sucks
 
14138631:abar. said:
This. I cannot emphasize enough how important a 1x is. When I was demoing bikes to decide which one to buy I rode a 2x and dropped the chain 3 times in 1 day. I have never dropped a chain on my 1x in 2 years. If you ride anything rough or hit jumps at all I couldn't comprehend riding without a 1x.

Hydraulic brakes and good tires would be nice too.

The cost of a good fork is not worth it for that bike imo, unless your fork is way too soft for your weight because soft suspension sucks
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When I rode a 3x the chain got caught on the cranks one time and when I went to peddle, the entire derailleur got ripped off the bike.
 
14138560:AsherDonati24 said:
Thanks for the advice. I plan on getting out on trails more this and riding a lot. Upgrading the tires that came with the bike would help a lot on trail.
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If you really want an upgrade and taking your riding to the next level I would recommend getting some crank brothers clipless pedals and shoes. It takes a while to get used to but you get much more power and control over the bike. If your doing jumps or really technical downhill stuff though I would advise against it. I hit a 10' stepdown once back in high school with clipless pedals and landed on my face still attached to the bike. I messed myself up pretty good and shattered my front teeth.
 
Start with tires. Most important component imo.

Get brakes. Even a entry level set up will better then the mechanical ones you currently have but the higher end is worth it.

Do the 1x drivetrain conversion. You can make do with an old school 3x and still have a lot of fun so this isn't as high a priority as the others but is still nice to have.
 
14138553:SuspiciousFish said:
Be careful replacing the fork as it can change the geometry of the bike. Getting one with a lockout will help a lot with climbing hills though, especially since its a hard tail.

It looks like those are wire pull disc brakes, upgrading to hydraulic will be a big first upgrade.

Then I would upgrade your derailleurs and shifter to Shimano XT.

Dont bother with tubeless unless you are planning on racing, its not worth the cost of new rims and tires etc.
Click to expand...

locking out a fork barely helps climbing unless you're standing up mashing fire roads. There's a reason a lot of forks are going away from having lock switches, i.e. Grip2 damper on Fox, all the new pikes/lyriks...
 
14138707:.nasty said:
locking out a fork barely helps climbing unless you're standing up mashing fire roads. There's a reason a lot of forks are going away from having lock switches, i.e. Grip2 damper on Fox, all the new pikes/lyriks...
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Maybe Im just old school. I used to do a lot of cross country racing and having a lockout in the front really helps to send all your energy to the pedals. They probably have much better inertia/dampening wizardry nowadays though.

Its actually kind of crazy, I was really into MTB riding and racing back in 2006 and really was not involved in the sport after graduating high school. I went to a bike shop in Sedona last year with my dad to rent a bike and it was unreal how different bikes are now with the new 29 inch wheels and 1X groupsets etc. I want to check out the new 27.5 wheels, I always used to run 26 but rode my Dad's 29 a few times. The 29 have much better rolling resistance but just are not nimble enough for my riding style, especially in tight switchbacks.
 
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