RussFullTilT
New member
i am wondering what bindings to buy for rails, boxes, and jumps? Any suggestions?
Best bindings for park only?
- Thread starter RussFullTilT
- Start date
Until you blow up a brake and/or plastic baseplate. They probably are the best though, but they could be better.
careful...while I don't disagree with this, and understand what you mean, very few people need 16 DIN bindings...
OP:
Go here first:
https://www.newschoolers.com/ns/forums/readthread/thread_id/481906/
Once you've read that, you'll be better off.
As far as what good park bindings are, it depends on what you're looking for...
lightweight bindings: basically bindings that are nice and light, but not necessarily durable
- Salomon STH 12 and 14 (non-driver)
- Marker Squire and Griffon
- Head Mojo/Tyrolia Peak/4FRNT Deadbolt 12 and 14
nice and durable bindings: for people that destroy bindings on a regular basis
- Rossignol FKS (aka Look Pivot) 140, 155, 180 and 185 (you could put FKS 120s in this list, but that's debatable)
- Salomon STH 14 and 16 (driver toe)
- Look PX 14, 15 and 18 (I personally disagree with these, I've broken each of them, but people do swear by them)
- Head Mojo/Tyrolia Peak/ 4FRNT Deadbolt 18
Please notice that most of the "durable" bindings are high DIN and aren't recommended for most people, and most of the lightweight bindings will break fairly easily under certain park stresses.
That being said, I only trust FKS 155, FKS 180/185 and STH 16s on my park skis - I've very particular of these because I don't mind their weight (they're not that heavy in my opinion) and I've never broken them, while I have broken most of the rest of ones I mentioned. Again, this is me personally, and doesn't mean that they're necessarily the best for you.
OP:
Go here first:
https://www.newschoolers.com/ns/forums/readthread/thread_id/481906/
Once you've read that, you'll be better off.
As far as what good park bindings are, it depends on what you're looking for...
lightweight bindings: basically bindings that are nice and light, but not necessarily durable
- Salomon STH 12 and 14 (non-driver)
- Marker Squire and Griffon
- Head Mojo/Tyrolia Peak/4FRNT Deadbolt 12 and 14
nice and durable bindings: for people that destroy bindings on a regular basis
- Rossignol FKS (aka Look Pivot) 140, 155, 180 and 185 (you could put FKS 120s in this list, but that's debatable)
- Salomon STH 14 and 16 (driver toe)
- Look PX 14, 15 and 18 (I personally disagree with these, I've broken each of them, but people do swear by them)
- Head Mojo/Tyrolia Peak/ 4FRNT Deadbolt 18
Please notice that most of the "durable" bindings are high DIN and aren't recommended for most people, and most of the lightweight bindings will break fairly easily under certain park stresses.
That being said, I only trust FKS 155, FKS 180/185 and STH 16s on my park skis - I've very particular of these because I don't mind their weight (they're not that heavy in my opinion) and I've never broken them, while I have broken most of the rest of ones I mentioned. Again, this is me personally, and doesn't mean that they're necessarily the best for you.
Mr_pretzel
Active member
If the 140 is there so should 120.
Also sth 12 drivers would be good.
Also sth 12 drivers would be good.
family_vacation
Active member
Head mojo 15 are the best I have ever used. Far better than the PX series or markers. they are the same thing as tyrolas or 4frnts. Once you click into them, you understand.
PeteySkeety
Member
Depending on your height, weight, and skill level, you should look into Salomon STH Driver 12, 14, or 16.
RussFullTilT
New member
thanks this helped a lot 
Mr_pretzel
Active member
Durability. Din range. Metal/no metal etc.
a_pla5tic_bag
Active member
this. i feel like half you guys are like 15 or 16 or so. how could you possibly need a 16 din binding, or even 12 too. and yeah someone might need it but definitely not the amount of people who actually have them. i'm 19 and I ride at din 6 or 7 ( i don't remember what I have it set to. If you land right it's not gonna release, and if you fall, why would you want your skis on anyway?
For a lot of people, an 11 DIN binding is fine...but they're much less durable than the higher range bindings, so when someone who skis a lot of park and puts a lot of abuse on their bindings rides them they break. When I started skiing park I rode Marker M.11 Frees...and broke them into pieces, since then I've learned that if you invest $300-$400 in bindings they tend to last a while (like 5 or 6 season at least). So not only do I bot break my bindings while on the hill which ends the day all the time, I can take them off by beat to hell skis and put them on my next pair. Also, by investing $400 into bindings, like I said they'll last 5 or 6 or even more years, instead of buying new bindings every season. If you think about it, even a cheap binding is $100, so in the same amount of time I've have a $400 binding, you've spent $500 or $600 on getting new ones every season (using "you" in a general term, not specifically you), plus the number of times you've had to deal with them breaking on you.
Big_Spence
Active member
flashkicks why are you so helpful to idiots?
i just don't understand.
i just don't understand.
Big_Spence
Active member
obviously you're equally as stupid because your next binding purchase is dictated by a price range instead of a DIN range.
shhhhh please be quiet, my case is resting.
shhhhh please be quiet, my case is resting.
Big_Spence
Active member
1. really? because i've purchased 3 pairs of 15+ DIN bindings in the year and they've all been under $200. clearly you're just an idiot and getting screwed over.
2. the fact that i collect sweatshirts is about the most irrelevant piece of information you could ever pull out of the gaping blackhole you call an anus.
2. the fact that i collect sweatshirts is about the most irrelevant piece of information you could ever pull out of the gaping blackhole you call an anus.
Ok, not exactly what I meant by that post...Going from an 11 DIN binding to an 18 DIN isn't a good idea...You need to right binding for YOU...so go to the thread I linked above in my first post and read that first. And yes, most high priced bindings are high DIN, I can't think of a $400 12 DIN binding...
The way I ride, my BSL, and my height and weight say that I can safely attach my feet to 18 DIN bindings...but you might not (in fact, and no offense, I can safely say that you DON'T need 18 DIN bindings, mostly because you felt that the 11 DIN padlocks were good...)
Don't just go out and buy the most expensive bindings right off the bat, there are other good, durable bindings that are not such a high DIN (FKS 120s and 140s for example can be ridden at a lower DIN safely and are still considered durable, obviously not as durable as the 155 or 180 version, but like I said, most people don't need those)
The way I ride, my BSL, and my height and weight say that I can safely attach my feet to 18 DIN bindings...but you might not (in fact, and no offense, I can safely say that you DON'T need 18 DIN bindings, mostly because you felt that the 11 DIN padlocks were good...)
Don't just go out and buy the most expensive bindings right off the bat, there are other good, durable bindings that are not such a high DIN (FKS 120s and 140s for example can be ridden at a lower DIN safely and are still considered durable, obviously not as durable as the 155 or 180 version, but like I said, most people don't need those)