Aenigma
Active member
After plans to go to Cancun and beer bong Olympia with Carson Daly fell through, I decided to head into the 'tooths for a while.
We started skinning at the Cooke City dump with giant packs and lots of sunshine, with the goal of getting to the Aero Lakes to set up base camp. We dropped into the wilderness near the Lulu Pass turnoff, and followed sled tracks 2.5 miles into the wilderness, past multiple signs--this is why you can't have nice things, assholes!
Heading up Zimmer Creek, toward the good stuff
Up and out of the goddamn trees!
After ~10 miles of skinning with 5 days of supplies, we pop into the alpine! Here is Lower Aero Lake, with Mt Villard and the Cathedral Spires, which I took many, many photos of this trip.
Our deluxe campsite on day 2, somehow with an open patch of running water just to the right. That little bit of creek was certainly the MVP of the trip, saving us 2-4 hours of melting snow each day. It was still below zero 2/3 nights, though!
Cruising across Upper Aero Lake toward Mt Villard and its lil' spires.
I set a nice, breakable bootpack up the last 400' vert of the bowl. I weigh almost nothing, so it was equally miserable for each person to punch through just as far on each pass.
Admiring Glacier Peak's monolithic North face.
Nine years ago, I stood on top of the South couloir of Villard and thought it would be pretty cool to ski it one day. I was right; this is a neat ski run.
Turns down Villard's main bowl, with the North face of Wilse looming in the background.
A few turns out on the top moraine, with the Cathedral Spires on the left.
Sunset on day 2!
Day 3 found us heading up Glacier Peak, and making numerous glances over toward Wilse's North face. I am scared, but intrigued.
We dug out a little shelf before the final summit push, and I contemplated a first shovel descent over dried mangoes and warm tea.
A little pop through the cornice, and we were on top!
Granite Peak, and Villard's NW/W face.
The first significant mountain I ever climbed solo was Glacier Peak, at 17 years old. 10 years later, I am back on top again, and on my birthday! I didn't think any climb I would ever do again could compare to that first one up here, but today sure gave it a run for its money.
Coming out the bottom (but still well above the lake) after a very interesting ski.
Cruising back across Upper Aero on our way to camp. Since we hauled our gear so far in, we had a very lesiurely schedule of getting out of camp at 9am, climbing a mountain, then reading and letting gear dry out starting around 4pm. It was a tough life, but somehow it worked.
Just when I thought the trip couldn't get any better, we got treated to an incredible sunset!
Note our bitchin' kitchen.
The last bit of light before the temperature quickly dropped from 35 to 0 again.
The next day, we collectively decided it would be hard to top Glacier Peak, so we packed up and headed out to go do some touring closer to Cooke City.
One last look at the head end of Zimmer Creek before turning into a lowlander again.
Day 5 found us heading up Republic Creek, away from the crowds again (it seems like if you're not on Republic Mountain, and not sitting on a snowmobile, there is nobody around).
Topping out on the drainage, with a whole bunch of awesome terrain with a grand total of zero tracks on any of it.
Our last little push to the top of Republic Peak, with Pilot and Index in the background. It was an out of focus sort of day.
Looking into the head end of Cache Creek. Who wants to tour back here with me?
Some more stupid mountains.
We decided to loop into the head end of Hayden Creek and go back to town that way, which ended up being a fun little ridgeline puzzle for a while.
Our last day was saved for a ski of Barronnette Peak. The morning started with a little snow, but the temperature hovered around freezing. We decided the Boiling River sounded like a better plan, and as the snow turned to rain, I felt warmer already.
We started skinning at the Cooke City dump with giant packs and lots of sunshine, with the goal of getting to the Aero Lakes to set up base camp. We dropped into the wilderness near the Lulu Pass turnoff, and followed sled tracks 2.5 miles into the wilderness, past multiple signs--this is why you can't have nice things, assholes!
Heading up Zimmer Creek, toward the good stuff
Up and out of the goddamn trees!
After ~10 miles of skinning with 5 days of supplies, we pop into the alpine! Here is Lower Aero Lake, with Mt Villard and the Cathedral Spires, which I took many, many photos of this trip.
Our deluxe campsite on day 2, somehow with an open patch of running water just to the right. That little bit of creek was certainly the MVP of the trip, saving us 2-4 hours of melting snow each day. It was still below zero 2/3 nights, though!
Cruising across Upper Aero Lake toward Mt Villard and its lil' spires.
I set a nice, breakable bootpack up the last 400' vert of the bowl. I weigh almost nothing, so it was equally miserable for each person to punch through just as far on each pass.
Admiring Glacier Peak's monolithic North face.
Nine years ago, I stood on top of the South couloir of Villard and thought it would be pretty cool to ski it one day. I was right; this is a neat ski run.
Turns down Villard's main bowl, with the North face of Wilse looming in the background.
A few turns out on the top moraine, with the Cathedral Spires on the left.
Sunset on day 2!
Day 3 found us heading up Glacier Peak, and making numerous glances over toward Wilse's North face. I am scared, but intrigued.
We dug out a little shelf before the final summit push, and I contemplated a first shovel descent over dried mangoes and warm tea.
A little pop through the cornice, and we were on top!
Granite Peak, and Villard's NW/W face.
The first significant mountain I ever climbed solo was Glacier Peak, at 17 years old. 10 years later, I am back on top again, and on my birthday! I didn't think any climb I would ever do again could compare to that first one up here, but today sure gave it a run for its money.
Coming out the bottom (but still well above the lake) after a very interesting ski.
Cruising back across Upper Aero on our way to camp. Since we hauled our gear so far in, we had a very lesiurely schedule of getting out of camp at 9am, climbing a mountain, then reading and letting gear dry out starting around 4pm. It was a tough life, but somehow it worked.
Just when I thought the trip couldn't get any better, we got treated to an incredible sunset!
Note our bitchin' kitchen.
The last bit of light before the temperature quickly dropped from 35 to 0 again.
The next day, we collectively decided it would be hard to top Glacier Peak, so we packed up and headed out to go do some touring closer to Cooke City.
One last look at the head end of Zimmer Creek before turning into a lowlander again.
Day 5 found us heading up Republic Creek, away from the crowds again (it seems like if you're not on Republic Mountain, and not sitting on a snowmobile, there is nobody around).
Topping out on the drainage, with a whole bunch of awesome terrain with a grand total of zero tracks on any of it.
Our last little push to the top of Republic Peak, with Pilot and Index in the background. It was an out of focus sort of day.
Looking into the head end of Cache Creek. Who wants to tour back here with me?
Some more stupid mountains.
We decided to loop into the head end of Hayden Creek and go back to town that way, which ended up being a fun little ridgeline puzzle for a while.
Our last day was saved for a ski of Barronnette Peak. The morning started with a little snow, but the temperature hovered around freezing. We decided the Boiling River sounded like a better plan, and as the snow turned to rain, I felt warmer already.
