“Base Weld”

hi_vis360

hi_vis360

Active member
I was on an older thread and I saw this term getting thrown around to fix bad core shots, used to hear it more often for sure. What exactly does it refer to?
 
If you do repair a core shot with P-Tex as we have here, there’s a chance the repair will fail / the P-Tex will fall out.

To ensure the best, strongest repair of a core shot, you’ll want to use a product called Metal Grip to partially fill in the core shot before finishing the repair with P-Tex. Metal Grip looks a lot like P-Tex, but it’s a mix of polyethylene (plastic) and a heat-activated adhesive that bonds much better to metal and the core material of your ski/board. Once you melt a foundation layer of Metal Grip to the core shot, you can finish the repair, filling the gouge completely, with P-Tex. However, you’ll need a special, low-heat soldering iron to melt Metal Grip into the core shot; you can’t use the same kind of iron used to solder metal onto a circuit board (such an iron gets far too hot and will burn the Metal Grip, or your base). Given that working with Metal Grip requires more expensive, specialized tools than just a lighter and a razor blade, it often makes more sense to have a shop perform a base weld for you. Shops have the proper welding equipment, and a repair can be done for 20 or 30 dollars.
https://blisterreview.com/recommended/base-repair-101/5
 
14560562:ajbski said:
If you do repair a core shot with P-Tex as we have here, there’s a chance the repair will fail / the P-Tex will fall out.

To ensure the best, strongest repair of a core shot, you’ll want to use a product called Metal Grip to partially fill in the core shot before finishing the repair with P-Tex. Metal Grip looks a lot like P-Tex, but it’s a mix of polyethylene (plastic) and a heat-activated adhesive that bonds much better to metal and the core material of your ski/board. Once you melt a foundation layer of Metal Grip to the core shot, you can finish the repair, filling the gouge completely, with P-Tex. However, you’ll need a special, low-heat soldering iron to melt Metal Grip into the core shot; you can’t use the same kind of iron used to solder metal onto a circuit board (such an iron gets far too hot and will burn the Metal Grip, or your base). Given that working with Metal Grip requires more expensive, specialized tools than just a lighter and a razor blade, it often makes more sense to have a shop perform a base weld for you. Shops have the proper welding equipment, and a repair can be done for 20 or 30 dollars.
https://blisterreview.com/recommended/base-repair-101/5
Click to expand...

Ok next question: what type of soldering iron is required? The website in that link says you need a chisel tip soldering iron, but that doesn’t seem like a very specialized type of soldering iron like they describe on blister
 
14560562:ajbski said:
However, you’ll need a special, low-heat soldering iron to melt Metal Grip into the core shot; you can’t use the same kind of iron used to solder metal onto a circuit board (such an iron gets far too hot and will burn the Metal Grip, or your base
Click to expand...
14560703:hi_vis360 said:
Ok next question: what type of soldering iron is required? The website in that link says you need a chisel tip soldering iron, but that doesn’t seem like a very specialized type of soldering iron like they describe on blister
Click to expand...

[video]https://youtu.be/tTBuXIpEiIg?si=TeWa4nAAg1XfbubZ[/video]
https://www.tognar.com/tognar-p-tex-base-repair-iron-120v-us-ca/

should be around 250-300c.

some Amazon solder irons are heat adjustable
 
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