Air raid size

my bro wants to buy it but like many others he isn't sure about the size.He's doubting between an M or an L, he doesn't want it to be a dress so NO XL!!He's about 5'9ish.
About how long are the sizes? (waist, under waist, midwaist, etc)what's the most important: Length or width? Cause the length are about the same (i think) but the width is different. (oh and he's skinny if that matters)
 
Im 5'10" (on a good day) and L fits good. Its big enough to look good but not huge to where it hinders anything. Med would look old school gay.
 
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